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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings, my A/C blows cold for about 5 minutes then stops blowing cold. I brought it into the mechanic and he told me that it was getting power but the compressor was seized and it would be $1200 to replace. After reading the forums here, it seems that it is more likely that the clutch needs a shim-ectomy to adjust the gap.

I have looked up pricing on parts and since the clutch vs. entire compressor doesnt seem like much of a difference. Amazon has a new motorcraft compressor+clutch for $186 and the four seasons accumulator+hose for $45. I am tempted to try this repair myself, however I have found two different procedures for getting at the compressor:

Ford Service Shop Manual:
1) Disconnect the power steering pressure hose.

2) Disconnect the power steering pressure hose.
  • Disconnect the power steering pressure hose.
  • If flushing of the air conditioning system has not been performed, recover the refrigerant. For additional information, refer to Section 412-00 .
  • Remove the RH cooling fan. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03 .
  • Remove the drive belt (8260) from the A/C compressor pulley.

3) Remove the nut. Detach teh power steering pressure hose bracket

4) Remove the nut. Detach the power steering pressure hose.

5) Disconnect the compressor manifold and tube assembly spring lock coupling. Remove and discard the o-ring seal.
  • During Installation, install a new o-ring seal lubricated with PAG oil or equivalent.

6) Disconnect the compressor manifold and tube assembly.
  • Disconnect the dual friction pressure cutoff switch electrical connector
  • Disconnect teh heated oxyben sensor electrical connector
  • Remove the bolt
  • Disconnect the compressor manifold and tube assembly. Remove and discard o-ring seals lubricated with PAG oil

7) Disconnect the compressor field coil electrical connector

8) NOTE the upper LH A/C compressor bolt must be removed with the A/C Compressor
remove the four bolts and the ac compressor​

9) To install reverse the removal procedure

10) Evac, leak test and charge the AC System

And the procedure from AutoZone is a bit simpler:

1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2) Recover the refrigerant.
3) Remove the RH and LH cooling fans.
4) Loosen the tensioner and remove the drive belt from the A/C compressor pulley.
5) Disconnect the compressor manifold and tube assembly and discard the O-ring seals.
6) Disconnect the compressor field coil electrical connector.

NOTE
The upper LH A/C compressor bolt must be removed with the A/C compressor.

7) Remove the four A/C compressor mounting bolts and remove the A/C compressor.
8) To install, reverse the removal procedure. Use new O-ring seals. Tighten the compressor mounting bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
9) Lubricate the refrigerant system with the correct amount of clean PAG oil.
10) Evacuate, leak test and charge the A/C system.
Searching the forum it seems there is a discussion of a method from RudeDog that suggest dropping the subframe, but it seems that may be talking about the duratec not the vulcan...

Either way, the autozone method seems tons simpler, removing both cooling vans vs. cracking into the power steering system and the oxygen sensor. Any tips from somebody who has done this repair to the vulcan which is best?

Thanks for the input!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I agree, it sounds quite a bit easier, not having to remove the PS stuff and the O2 sensor to get the compressor out, which makes me a bit wary if it is actually going to work.

I need to wait until July when I get paid before I order the parts, but I am really hoping I dont have to remove the PS + O2 stuff
 

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Cake monster
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If you replace the entire compressor, you will have to take it to a shop and have the refrigerant recovered from the system first. If you don't have a vacuum pump, you will also have to take it back to get it recharged. You can illegally vent it, but that's bad. You might also want to replace the orifice tube.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I was planning on taking it to the shop to get it recovered before hand, and then back to the shop to get it vacuumed and recharged.

In budgeting this, I was assuming it would be ~$100 to recover, and another ~$150 to evac and recharge? Am I playing in the right ball park?
 

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I own an a 01' Vulcan as well and I can tell you one thing... replacing compressor on these cars is a major pain in the butt. Get ready to spend at least 6 - 7 hours on it, with cuts and bruises afterwards. Did it once, worked for few months and crapped on me again. I rode 2 years without A/C in a Texas heat and I finally took it to a good shop (3 days ago) and got everything replaced (except Condenser) for $1K with 2 year warranty for both labor and parts. It blows cold air like a brand new car. Don't even try to replace the clutch, sure its possible but what can you expect from a 10 year old compressor? It will crap on you sooner or later. Like you said, it will cost you about $300 to recover, evac and recharge the system.
 

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Hi
I am also into replacing my ac compressor from a 2000 Taurus Duratec
This video shows the autozone method, pretty simple

 

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^ Hes working on an 01 vulcan. Considerably tighter on a tec. Since hes not replacing the compressor, a lot less work to simply replace the serp. belt with a shorter one to bypass the compressor pulley (82.2 in. 6 rib belt for an 01 vulcan). This will not work on a tec.
 
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