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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All;

I have a '99 SE Duratec (VIN S), AX4N Tranny. After warmming (15 to 20 mins of road use), the tranny starts slipping from 1st gear thru 2nd. Someone suggested to first try replacing the VSS before dumping a bunch of $'s into a tranny check & rebuild (already flushed fluid x 3, replaced fluid filter, added after-market cooler, checked solenoid wiring harness- no help). That's sounds fair enough.., and certainly cheep enough.., but I'm just wondering what the connection is. Why would a warmed VSS stop sending speed sensing to the tranny via the PCM at the low range?

Thank you for your help -- any enlightenment is greatly appreciated. java script:emoticon(':dunno:',%20'smid_11')

Steve. . ..
 

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VSS wont cause slippage. It will cause hard shifts and erratic shifting, and hard down shifts. Pressure leak down, burnt bands or clutches, sticky valves are about the only things that will cause slippage I believe.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
k -- soo, 'slip' is a bad choice of words...

Here's whats happening (and only when warmed) - After coming to a full stop, I accelerate (normal acceleration) and the car comes off the line with no problem. Then, when expecting the car to shift into 2nd gear, the tranny 'drops out' and eng. revs to 2500-3000 RPM. I then have to back off the gas and feather the accelerator to again engage the tranny. No DTC to help. I guess 'erratic' shifting is a better choice of words. I can also manually drop the car into 1st and accelerate off the line, then push the shifter back to overdrive once moving through an intersection at around 10-15mph and avoid the 'erratic' pass thu 2nd gear. Not optimal, but has to be better than letting the tranny slam into gear after feathering the gas.., at least until I replace the VSS and give that a try.

Just curious why a VSS would cause this only when warmed to normal operating temp. Isn't it nothing more than a simple hall-effect sender - a magnet generating a low voltage signal to pass to the PCM?

Thanks;
Steve
 

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Because it tells the transmissions computer how fast your going and if its screwed it wont tell it the correct speed and do exactly whats happening to you right now.
 

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Sounds like an issue i was having with my tranny. I was getting what i called a flare-up after the 1-2 shift - basically, i could accelerate normally, the car would shift from 1st to 2nd, then it would drop into neutral for a moment, the engine would flare up, and it would go back into second and continue on its way. It only did this once it got good and hot, and only if i had the shifter in OD. If i put it in D, it wouldn't do it. I had the tranny rebuilt, as it had a couple other issues, but even after the rebuild, that problem remained. I pulled the valve body and had a tranny specialist look at it, and he couldn't find anything visibly wrong with it. Ultimately, i put a used valve body in, and the problem is gone.
 

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Sounds like an issue i was having with my tranny. I was getting what i called a flare-up after the 1-2 shift - basically, i could accelerate normally, the car would shift from 1st to 2nd, then it would drop into neutral for a moment, the engine would flare up, and it would go back into second and continue on its way. It only did this once it got good and hot, and only if i had the shifter in OD. If i put it in D, it wouldn't do it. I had the tranny rebuilt, as it had a couple other issues, but even after the rebuild, that problem remained. I pulled the valve body and had a tranny specialist look at it, and he couldn't find anything visibly wrong with it. Ultimately, i put a used valve body in, and the problem is gone.
[/b]
I had the EXACT same issue, except it would only do it when cold, <40F, and shifting into 2nd would keep it in gear. A fluid change fixed that.
 

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If you put a new valve body ( used ) on it then it was a solenoid issue and the mechanic that rebuilt, as well as the one who ran diagnostics the 2nd time need an ass kicking.
You will USUALLY get an incorrect gearing code when you have a failing solenoid, or slippage.
Which they should have gotten when they hooked up to it in the car. If the code was present they should have tested the solenoids before tearing it down.
Then you wouldn't have wasted $2k on a rebuild.
 

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If you put a new valve body ( used ) on it then it was a solenoid issue and the mechanic that rebuilt, as well as the one who ran diagnostics the 2nd time need an ass kicking.
You will USUALLY get an incorrect gearing code when you have a failing solenoid, or slippage.
Which they should have gotten when they hooked up to it in the car. If the code was present they should have tested the solenoids before tearing it down.
Then you wouldn't have wasted $2k on a rebuild.
[/b]
First of all, I am a mechanic, working at a ford dealership - i know how to diagnose my car. There were no "incorrect gearing codes" in there - the only code was P1744, related to the TCC circuit, and that issue has been resolved. Secondly, the solenoids were not the reason the valve body was replaced - they had already been swapped out when the tranny was first rebuilt, and the flare-up still remained. The valve body was replaced because the symptom could only have been caused by it, and the second tranny specialist who looked at the valve body couldn't see any obvious problems either, which led him to believe that there could have been some wear in a valve bore that isn't visible by looking at it, or some other similar concern. Since the new valve body has fixed the problem, i'd say he was right. Thirdly, i didn't waste $2000 for the rebuild - i only paid for the parts that were replaced, which i got at my cost, which totalled about $600, including the used valve body, and the rebuild was necessary, since some other worn parts were replaced, along with a complete reseal. So, in the future, i suggest you get a better idea of what you're talking about before you open your mouth. I see that you're a pretty new member, and i've already noticed you kicking up a stink in some other threads. Being a new guy and shooting your mouth off isn't the way to get people to take you seriously or to earn anyone's respect on this site, and it'll likely get you kicked out pretty damned quick.
 

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Ego much ?
I could give a rats ass who you are buddy.
Welcome to the internet. No on cares who you are and your Ego matters are your own problem. I haven't caused a stink about jack on here. we are here to talk about cars not your ego. But since you want to go down the "you don't know who I am" road and boast skill levels... I would say you need to go back to school. But hey that's just me.

Have a good day simmering on that shoot off.

;)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
well anyway.., ehmmm.

A new VSS, $22 bucks & 30-minutes later -- and my problem is fixed. Only wish I tried this sooner.

Grease, thanks...
Steve
 

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Ego much ?
I could give a rats ass who you are buddy.
Welcome to the internet. No on cares who you are and your Ego matters are your own problem. I haven't caused a stink about jack on here. we are here to talk about cars not your ego. But since you want to go down the "you don't know who I am" road and boast skill levels... I would say you need to go back to school. But hey that's just me.

Have a good day simmering on that shoot off.

;)
[/b]
Actually, i don't have an ego problem. I have a problem with guys like you who come on here and start trying to shoot down other people, when they have no idea what they're talking about. And as for nobody cares who i am, and i need to go back to school - explain to me then why i often get emails and pms from members with problems they can't solve seeking my advice? Sounds like a few people on the internet care about who i am and respect my educated opinion.

And ya, you have stirred the pot on here - i read thru some of your posts on the thread about the guy who put the 4.6L conti engine in the taurus - you got pretty rude and abrasive there without due cause.
 

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<div class='quotemain'>
Ego much ?
I could give a rats ass who you are buddy.
Welcome to the internet. No on cares who you are and your Ego matters are your own problem. I haven't caused a stink about jack on here. we are here to talk about cars not your ego. But since you want to go down the "you don't know who I am" road and boast skill levels... I would say you need to go back to school. But hey that's just me.

Have a good day simmering on that shoot off.

;)
[/b]
Actually, i don't have an ego problem. I have a problem with guys like you who come on here and start trying to shoot down other people, when they have no idea what they're talking about. And as for nobody cares who i am, and i need to go back to school - explain to me then why i often get emails and pms from members with problems they can't solve seeking my advice? Sounds like a few people on the internet care about who i am and respect my educated opinion.

And ya, you have stirred the pot on here - i read thru some of your posts on the thread about the guy who put the 4.6L conti engine in the taurus - you got pretty rude and abrasive there without due cause.
[/b][/quote]

and I probably will again towards some one who responds like you do.
Bye bye now.

( btw since you don't think I know what I am talking about read one post above your last, have a cookie, and smile.)

well anyway.., ehmmm.

A new VSS, $22 bucks & 30-minutes later -- and my problem is fixed. Only wish I tried this sooner.

Grease, thanks...
Steve
[/b]

zz...alight.... ;)

These damned old cars will drive us all nuts yet wont they.
Its never what we think the problem is.

BUT be weary as you may not be out of the woods yet.
If it's a solenoid the problem will probably return in with in the week.
Meaning all you did was clear the codes when you disconnected the battery to change the VSS.
HOPEFULLY that wont be the case for you though, and the VSS fixed it but only time will tell.
 

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and I probably will again towards some one who responds like you do.
Bye bye now.

( btw since you don't think I know what I am talking about read one post above your last, have a cookie, and smile.)

<div class='quotemain'>
well anyway.., ehmmm.

A new VSS, $22 bucks & 30-minutes later -- and my problem is fixed. Only wish I tried this sooner.

Grease, thanks...
Steve
[/b]

zz...alight.... ;)

These damned old cars will drive us all nuts yet wont they.
Its never what we think the problem is.

BUT be weary as you may not be out of the woods yet.
If it's a solenoid the problem will probably return in with in the week.
Meaning all you did was clear the codes when you disconnected the battery to change the VSS.
HOPEFULLY that wont be the case for you though, and the VSS fixed it but only time will tell.
[/b][/quote]
I don't understand why he's thanking you, since you told him the VSS wouldn't fix it, but after he replaced that, IT'S FIXED! And yet, you're still trying to say that his problem might come back, and that clearing the codes may be what fixed it - which is a crock - clearing the codes doesn't fix the problem, it just turns off the light. If the problem was still there, the car would still be acting up.

And as for you getting rude and abrasive "towards someone who responds like me" - i read thru your posts, and the responses to them in the other thread. You showed up there and out of the blue started trash-talking the OP, saying his project was BS and that the 4.6L engine couldn't be put into a taurus, etc, etc, when he had pics to prove that it did fit. You started calling everyone a bunch of retards, and you were just being an ass in general, and several other people called you on it. So don't try to say it's just people like me, when clearly, it's you.
 

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WTF are you talking about stupid ?
You are the most annoying little turd ever.
I confirmed it for him in my 1st post.
/he already had a good idea all I told him was a VSS WOULD NOT CAUSE SLIPPAGE. We went though the whole symptom thing, and he asked me why a VSS would cause it only when warm.
Did you miss that too?
There was no light smart guy. There rarely is with a VSS problem unless it gets severe.
The reason the problem goes away when you clear the codes from a VSS is because its simply and electrical problem not a mechanical problem. The codes clear and the computer does what it is supposed to do once it gets a good signal until it acts up again.

ANY backyard or pro mechanic will tell you to look out for a return symptom when replacing a VSS or TPS, or anything you have to disconnect the battery to replace as it clears the codes when you disconnect the battery and the problem may reappear a couple days later if that wasn't truly the issue.
You really are retarded or something aren't you?

Now GO away cry baby



You lose
 

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WTF are you talking about stupid ?
You are the most annoying little turd ever.
I confirmed it for him in my 1st post.
/he already had a good idea all I told him was a VSS WOULD NOT CAUSE SLIPPAGE. We went though the whole symptom thing, and he asked me why a VSS would cause it only when warm.
Did you miss that too?
There was no light smart guy. There rarely is with a VSS problem unless it gets severe.
The reason the problem goes away when you clear the codes from a VSS is because its simply and electrical problem not a mechanical problem. The codes clear and the computer does what it is supposed to do once it gets a good signal until it acts up again.

ANY backyard or pro mechanic will tell you to look out for a return symptom when replacing a VSS or TPS, or anything you have to disconnect the battery to replace as it clears the codes when you disconnect the battery and the problem may reappear a couple days later if that wasn't truly the issue.
You really are retarded or something aren't you?

Now GO away cry baby

You lose
[/b]
Wow. That response pretty much just sums up how immature and uneducated you are. All you know how to do is throw insults at people, and the funniest part of it is, you can't even spell, punctuate or use proper grammar. If you're going to call other people retarded, perhaps you should make sure you aren't first.

Your first post didn't confirm anything for him - someone else told him to try the VSS for his "slippage" issue, and all you did was tell him the VSS won't cause slippage. When he re-worded his problem, you told him that the VSS COULD be causing it - basically just confirming what someone else already told him. I added my post about my valve body as a possibility of what else it could be, since the symptom he had was quite similar to the one I had. You then jumped in and basically called me and everyone else who looked at my car a bunch of idiots, when you had no idea what was done to the tranny, or why it was done, or what codes may or may not have been present - basically, you had no idea what you were talking about on the subject, but decided to insult people anyway. THAT'S what i took offense to, and why I responded to you the way I did, especially after seeing the things you said in the "For all those that doubt" thread. So you're basically just a dickhead with a big mouth, who showed up on this site and started trying to tell everyone else they're a bunch of morons, just because you can't see things any other way than how you picture them in your little simpleton mind.

Furthermore, I know there was no light, since he'd already said there were no codes. So why would you bother saying that he cleared the codes and that might have hidden the problem, if we already knew there weren't any codes to begin with? By the way, bright spark, clearing codes doesn't make the problem go away for any length of time. If he replaced the wrong part, then as soon as he had the vehicle under the same operating conditions as when the problem occurred before, the problem would occur again - not in a couple days. The only thing resetting the PCM does is turn off the CEL (had it been on) and make the PCM relearn its adaptive strategies. It won't make a failed part temporarily stop failing. Any pro mechanic will tell you that after making a repair, you should road test the vehicle under the same conditions as when the symptom occurred, to verify that the problem no longer exits. You don't just clear the codes and wait to see what happens. Well, maybe YOU do, but you don't seem to be that intelligent anyway, so....
 

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Grease Monkey cut that crap out or I'm locking this thread.

Nidan is a well respected member of this forum and is a Ford certified technician. We appreciate your assistance here helping members, but that crap has got to stop. Now. Don't care who started what, or what you interpreted his post as saying originally. That ain't how it works on this site.

Capice?
 

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I am here to talk about cars period.
Not to stroke ego's and tip toe around ego boosted smack talkers who take things personally and waaay out of context then cry about the response they get for it and cry foul to the very things they just did.

I'll let it go and continue to but that needs out there just as I said it.

T/Y
 

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well anyway.., ehmmm.

A new VSS, $22 bucks & 30-minutes later -- and my problem is fixed. Only wish I tried this sooner.

Grease, thanks...
Steve
[/b]
Sorry for ignorant question but what is VSS?
 

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<div class='quotemain'>
well anyway.., ehmmm.

A new VSS, $22 bucks & 30-minutes later -- and my problem is fixed. Only wish I tried this sooner.

Grease, thanks...
Steve
[/b]
Sorry for ignorant question but what is VSS?
[/b][/quote]
Vehicle Speed Sensor.
 
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