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This morning on my way to work my car died. I lost all power and acceleration, luckily i was just on a feder road and was able to pull over safely. I waited a few min and started my car back up and drove for a half a mile and it died again. This time it didnt have enough power to start so i pushed it home. Yesterday, while i was at lunch my cars battery light was flickering on while i was driving and did it on my way home too. Always around 3k rpm it would flicker on then go back off. I cant help but think this is related. Going to test my battery later but its fairly new. I dont know much about cars but all i can think of is the alternator or some cables might be corroded. Just fishing for ideas of stuff to check for before i pay someone to come look at it thanks.
 

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My guess is your alternator is failing and your battery went dead as a result. You may have to replace both items.
 

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update: Tried to get a jump and drive my car to an advance but car wouldnt make it too far. Just died with a min of being jumped. Got the battery tested and charged and its cca was good and it tested good. Going to attempt to drive it up there so they can check the alternator tomorrow morning. thanks for the tips guys
 

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KISS comes to mind. KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID not poking fun of you at all. What my shop teacher always taught me. Sounds like its a cable issue. And prolly your alt too. If you unplug the batt on these cars they will run off the alt for a while, but it will eventually burn the brushes out on the alt. The stalling seems like your alt is on its way out due to this. You car when you go to start it will make good enough connection to start or crank. But driving down the road it loses connection. Which it will still run then the alt kicks out and bam car dies. Check your connections at the bat and back of the alt. And expect to possibly replace the alt. Also Clean all the connections and check for melted or frayed cables.
 

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thank you kind sir for your reply, no i checked the cables. I drove my car up to an advance so they could check the alternator. It just showed thAt the battery wasnt getting charged. So im going to replace my alternator and see if that fixes the issue. I also checked for frayed cables and there were none.
 

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This has happened to me in my 2004 Taurus SE while driving on the freeway. It would also die when making left u-turns and would sometimes not start. But when it died on me as i was driving down the freeway in the 7th fast lane and i had to cross over 6 lanes to the right to get to the emergency shoulder thats when i really had it with this f'in car. Wouldnt start back up. All the lights and dash worked, radio worked emergency blinkers but when i go to start it all it would do is click. CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK. All the fuses are good i just dont know what to do. Tomorrow morning im going to try and change the NEGATIVE battery cable like I've read in numerous incident reports. Other than that all i can try is to replace the PCM relay and if it still doesnt work then the ignition. If none of those work.... Well my exceptionally professional style driving wont be there to save the next poor soul that happens to so its off to pick a park cause i dont care if it only has 115xxx miles on it, ill be damned if that ever happens to my mother on the freeway cause it will be disastrous and lethal without a doubt.... Thanks ford. Thanks.
 

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Wouldnt start back up. All the lights and dash worked, radio worked emergency blinkers but when i go to start it all it would do is click. CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK. All the fuses are good i just dont know what to do. Tomorrow morning im going to try and change the NEGATIVE battery cable like I've read in numerous incident reports. Other than that all i can try is to replace the PCM relay and if it still doesnt work then the ignition.
Let me preface this by saying I'm by no means an expert, but this is how I'd attack the issue:

That rapid clicking makes me think "Not enough power to the starter relay." Corrosion between connections will increase resistance in your electrical system, and cause a drop in voltage. If there's enough resistance, your battery may be struggling to keep the solenoid closed, let alone deliver enough power to turn over your engine.

Do you own a multi-meter? It's by far the most valuable tool for tracking down electrical gremlins. Both your starter relay and ignition system fuses are located in an under-hood fuse box. I would start by disconnecting your battery terminals and then measuring the resistance of the power wire that runs from your battery to this box (The "mega fuse" might be a good place to probe) as well as the resistance between your battery's negative terminal connection and any exposed ground on the body. You may have to dig in your probe to cut through enough corrosion to get a reading.
 
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