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I tackled the water pump on our POS Vulcan wagon that just won't die. Like everything I've done on a Vulcan so far, much easier than anything on a Duratec or SHO.

This isn't a write-up, but here is the basic process I took....
  1. Disconnect negative terminal from battery
  2. Loosen water pump pulley bolts before removing belt
  3. Remove serpentine belt
  4. Remove alternator and long support bracket
  5. Remove idler pulley
  6. Remove tensioner and short support bracket
  7. Remove power steering hose support bracket
  8. Disconnect crank position sensor plug and move it out of harms way
  9. With a cold engine, open radiator cap, disconnect lower radiator hose, and drain coolant
  10. Remove heater hose from water pump
  11. Remove 7 13mm bolts and 5 8mm bolts from water pump body
  12. Remove water pump
You don't need to remove everything I did, but it's not much extra work and it does give you much easier access. Here is what it looked like before taking out the remaining water pump bolts.

[attachmentid=27039]



And here is something else I learned... I posted a thread in the "want ads" for a Vulcan water pump. Rudy graciously sent a clean used one to me that he removed from his Gen 2. I assumed the water pumps from the older Vulcans were interchangeable with the later ones... and I guess Rudy assumed the same, since he knows tons more than I do about Vulcans. Well, they are not the same....

The Gen 2 pump has a larger heater hose outlet. The Gen 3 pump has an extra bolt hole. Otherwise, the pumps are interchangeable. The Gen 2 pump could be made to fit the Gen 3 by using a hose reducer to adapt the large outlet to the small hose. The extra bolt hole isn't needed, but does add some extra protection against leaks if the mating surfaces are poor.

[attachmentid=27040]
[attachmentid=27041]

Unfortunately, I learned this at 2am while working after hours at a buddy's shop. So no running to auto parts store to pick up the correct pump. The impeller on my old pump did not look as bad as I expected it to, so after cleaning off the old gasket and fitting a new one, I reinstalled the old pump. I flushed the coolant system and added a cleaner that requires 4-6 hours of normal driving, according to the instructions. I drove the car for about an hour, and the temps were back to were they should be. No more overheating.

When I replaced the head gasket last fall, I flushed the coolant system about 10 times, and it continued to dump rust. This time was not much better. Large clumps of rust came out of the lower radiator hose after several flushes. After about 5 times, I didn't feel like messing with it anymore, and it was 3am. So I filled it with water and added the cleaner... and shall flush it again, multiple times, in a couple days after some additional driving.
 

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here is a trick i picked on my 97. I had the water pump off already for change. there is two
direct entries into the engine block without removing the freeze plugs. So, i got
a garden hose with nossel and squirted directly into these holes. one, then the other until
the water ran clear. then i back flushed the hose from the heater that was hooked to
the water pump. Of course this only works if the water pump is off.

What i want to know now is hot is normal on these engines.

mine is throwing O2 codes, so i am trying to clean the O2 sensors as an experiment tonight.

bob
 

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What i want to know now is hot is normal on these engines.

[/b]
on a cool day with conservative driving, the needle usually stays about 1/4th of the way

and on a hot day with aggressive driving, mine usually floats around a 1/3rd of the way up... i believe i may have said something slightly different an a similar thread... but i payed close attention to it this time
 
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