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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1997 Taurus 3.0 sedan, it stated out as loss of radio audio when I put car in drive, it was intermitten, just ever now and then. Now I have 100% loss of au dio in drive and reverse, OK in N an Park. Now, I have no power steering, no power windows (also the background lighting on the window switch panel is out), the intermitten windshield wiper function is inop (slow and fast OK). The seatbelt and low coolant warning lights also flash intermitten. The digital radio digits are OK, clock OK, cruise control OK, heater and fan OK, lights OK, rest of instruments OK.

In summary, I have no power windows, no lights on power window swith panel, no radio audio, no intermit windshield wipers, no power steering, the seatbelt and low coolent warning lights flash intermitten with a clicking sound coming from underneath the instrument panel, (also if I am stopped and turn the steering wheel all the way, it will pulse/jerk each time the waring lights flash), but when I put the trans in Neutral or Park everything works OK.

I don't have the faintest place to start troubleshooting. TIA jim :huh:
 

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The transmission Range Sensor (TRS) also sometimes called a Neutral Safety Switch.
All the symptoms you describe are classic TRS failure.

TRS (Transmission Range Sensor)
Symptoms (Each bullet point is a symptom that doesn't necessarily happen at the same time):

  • Loss of power steering assist, all window controls (none are lit up), rear window defrost controls, half of the MFS controls (only Hi, Lo, and turn signals work), and radio only when car is in R, (D), D, and 1. Everything functions fine when put into P or N.
  • Transmission randomly downshifts/upshifts suddenly while driving.

Symptoms, TSB, and Repair
Additional Info
TRS Alignment Procedure
TRS Alignment Shortcut
TRS Wiring Harness Pin-Out
TRS Wiring Pin-Out (AX4N)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks

thanks Dan for quick reply, damn you're up aufull late in "upstate", my pop's was from Watertown. I read your link and one comment said you needed a flex scope to see, or drop transmission. How difficult woudl this be, would get from a wrecking yard here in Sacramento it I could replace myself. The symtoms of your ref post are pretty much IDENTICAL to syms I have. Thanks again..................jim
 

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TRS is on the top of tranny. Can be easily removed once the air intake ducting is removed. Be sure to perform the alignment procedure after installing the new one. Its really a pretty easy DIY job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Same-Same

I replaced the TRS this morning with a 11 pin sensor, I have exactly same symtoms/problem. The 11 pin was $96.00 from Auto Zone so I went to pick-pull and bought for $10. You were right, it was easy replacement after yo told me WHERE it was (under the master cylinder). What are the odds of the junk yard unit putting out same faults?? I don't have aligment tool (???) but I did mark the hinge between the 2 8mm bolts holding in the sensor. Even if it was a little out of adjustment, what would be the odds of the same faults? Would appreciate any ideas how to proceed from here. TIA jim in Sacto :unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Forgot to say, other than the incovience of the above symtoms, the car starts and runs fine...........go figure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The starter also failed (smoked !!!!!) Saturday, engine was iddling. replaced with good used for $23.........$130 new !!!!!!!!! works good now. I hope there is no connection !!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Alignment

no alignment holes on my trs......forgot to say "I have console shifter". I read there is supposed to be mark on trans, but I haven't noticed anthing like that.
 

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There should be a line on the TRS embossed in the plastic that runs from the body of the TRS across the part that turns. With car in neutral (or park, I can't remember which), it should be a straight line, if not loosen the TRS mounting bolts (nuts?) and adjust accordingly, then re-tighten.
Look close and you can see the lines I'm talking about:

 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks dan for GREAT PICTURE !!!!!! I will check it out, wife out of town with car, but should be back Saturday. Will post back with update. Thanks again everyone, you've saved me $300-400 bucks in the past few days..........
 

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You're very welcome Jim! You do have to remove the shifter cable to see/adjust it. The pic is the 11 pin version, but the 8 pin is the same. The Haynes/Chilton adjustment procedure is a waste of time.
This forum has saved me gobs of cash since joining, just tryin' to pay it forward.
 
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