Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
1997 Ford Taurus 3.0L Wagon 226,362 miles
Joined
·
461 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
'97 Taurus GL: Garden Hose/PVC hose fittings?

3.0l 164k miles Vulcan

Having lots of "fun" doing this water pump replacement. Not nearly as easy as the Ford (or Haynes) manuals would have you believe - but that's another story.

Here's the question:

The 12" section of hose coming off the neck of the pump needs to be replaced. The problem is this hose is actually part of Ford's famous "H" hose that routes coolant both TO and AROUND the heater core. It runs into (or is fused/glued into) a molded plastic "T" with no apparent means of de-coupling. Instead of going to the dealer and buying a whole new "H" hose (and dealing with the install headaches associated with that), I'd like to just replace this 12" section. But to do that, (I think) I'd have to cut out the molded "T" and replace it with another "T" (like a garden hose or PVC "T") - something that I could attach hose clamps to on three sides. It would be really nice if the replacement "T" had the ability to shut off flow in one direction. This way, I could shut off flow to the heater core in the summer months, plus it would make flushing the core easier...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,686 Posts
You should be able to find those "T" fittings in a parts store. I can't remember what it looks like, but isn't there a metal crimp on the hose you can just cut off?
 

·
Registered
1997 Ford Taurus 3.0L Wagon 226,362 miles
Joined
·
461 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
You should be able to find those "T" fittings in a parts store. I can't remember what it looks like, but isn't there a metal crimp on the hose you can just cut off?
[/b]
That's on the other side - the T-stat side. I don't want to touch that if I don't have to. The "T" I'm talking about is on the side nearest the pump. The hoses fit INTO it instead of OVER it (like on the T-stat side). It's a very large tubular "T" that almost appears seamless with the hoses. I wonder why it's different than the "T" on the other side. Maybe for increased flow coming out of the pump (toward the heater core)??? I'll look around this morning at the parts stores. Never noticed any "T"s like this anywhere before...

Here's another question:

I removed the two 5" studs from the block that the Power Steering Bracket is mounted on so that I'd have more wiggle room to install the pump behind/below it (I didn't want to de-couple the hydraulic line on the pump for fear of creating more trouble for myself). Could I replace these studs with standard bolts (with bolt heads)? The problem with the studs is (unbelievably) the ends are circular! After removing the nuts I thought I'd be able to turn the studs out with a socket or wrench, but NOOooo. One stud actually came out by hand by vibrating the bracket on it a bit, and the other one I got out with vise-grips. I was thinking I'd use the vise-grips to turn them back in, but there's only a very tiny sliver of non-threaded area at the tip to grab and I'm concerned that I may not be able to tighten them in sufficiently. Looks like they only have about 3/4" inch of threading on the block side. The other end has about 3" of threading where the nut tightens against the bracket. The replacement bolts would need to be shorter than the studs because the nut threaded in with about 1/2"-5/8" of threaded stud poking through once tightened down.
 

·
Registered
1997 Ford Taurus 3.0L Wagon 226,362 miles
Joined
·
461 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Ended up installing the Duralast aluminum unit. The old unit came out pretty much intact - no bearing issues and no vanes rusted off as others have mentioned. I DID notice, however, that if I held the unit up against the sky, hairline cracks could be seen through the bent edges of each vane. Hopefully this was affecting flow and my heat will be better now. Really hasn't been cold enough here yet to prove this theory, though.

Used all the original factory hoses. Didn't have time to look for replacements. Nothing is leaking so far.

One issue afterwards: I was getting a fine vibration in the steering wheel when turning right sometimes. It seems to have gone away. It was a feeling very similar to what you feel when your passenger wheels roll over the corrogated pavement in the brakedown lane on the interstates. Maybe this was air in the power steering line? I never physically detached the Power Steering unit, though - just took it off the threaded studs and pushed it aside to give a better view to the water pump below.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,686 Posts
I'm pretty sure i replaced that T fitting with one from a parts supplier that was simply a T with 3 barbed ends on it. I cut the crimps off and simply cut the hoses out of the stock fitting, leaving as much there as i could, and hooked it all back up with the aftermarket crimp. IIRC, i had to bend the bracket that holds the hose to the firewall a bit to allow the hose to stay in it, since the hose was a bit shorter after making the repair.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
102 Posts
I'm pretty sure i replaced that T fitting with one from a parts supplier that was simply a T with 3 barbed ends on it. I cut the crimps off and simply cut the hoses out of the stock fitting, leaving as much there as i could, and hooked it all back up with the aftermarket crimp. IIRC, i had to bend the bracket that holds the hose to the firewall a bit to allow the hose to stay in it, since the hose was a bit shorter after making the repair.
[/b]
same here. The main thing is to get a automotive grade t-fitting. The regular pvc or nylon type will not hold up ....the temp is too high for those. I got mine at the local parts house made by Gates......stay away from anything that is in the HELP section or Dorman...those will not hold up...I tried them...POS Chinease crap.

The whole bypass assembly is around $80-90 at the dealer.

Ipicked up one at the pull- a -part the last time I was there for a spare...for $3. Of course this was well after I used the t....
 

·
Registered
1997 Ford Taurus 3.0L Wagon 226,362 miles
Joined
·
461 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I'm pretty sure i replaced that T fitting with one from a parts supplier that was simply a T with 3 barbed ends on it. I cut the crimps off and simply cut the hoses out of the stock fitting, leaving as much there as i could, and hooked it all back up with the aftermarket crimp. IIRC, i had to bend the bracket that holds the hose to the firewall a bit to allow the hose to stay in it, since the hose was a bit shorter after making the repair.
[/b]
I almost did that very same thing. I found a T at Autozone that I was going to use and was going to cut up the factory hose (on the water pump side) and replace the section going to the top of the water pump. But then I decided to try reusing the original H hose intact first - since I had very carefully and surgically removed it from the water pump neck. No leaks so far. Good enough for me. It's only an around-town car these days...

Coolant hoses must be a lot better than they used to be. All my hoses on this car are still original from the factory. 10 years 164k and counting ...
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top