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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone experienced this problem with a 1997 Taurus GL, with 3.0 Standard engine:
When taking off from a stopped position, when I accellerate midly everything is fine, but if I need to give it a little boost, the engine seems to hesistate 2-3 little lurches. Afterwards, it runs like nothing is wrong. Wires & plugs new, injectors recently purged. Could it be the MAF? If I disconnect the MAF, the engine does change a little, and back to normal after reconnecting. Do MAF's act up only at certain times/speeds? Any other ideas on IAC, or TPS maybe?
 

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My Vulcan seems to do the same thing, but it doesn't happen all the time, just when it wants to. We recently had the subframe connectors replaced because they were worn, it helped some with a delay type thing, but this problem still lingers.
 

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I think all vulcans do this. They arent used to being gunned.. .and really arent made for it. Vulcan=Slow people cars who take off nicely from stops

Then comes people like us who like to gun it at lights.

Mine hesitates when im at a dead stop (or going) and I press the gas pedal down to the floor all the way. It takes about 2-3 seconds to realize that I'm telling it to MOVE.

Its like a game of.... car: "Should I go faster? Should I? Maybe I shouldn't.. But maybe I should! No, I don't think I will.... OK OK I'll go!! *vrroom!!!* Hey, I like this!!"

Owner: "Damn, took ya long enough."



PS - WELCOME TO THE CLUB!!!


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I have the same problem as ktk, a 1 one time hesitation that lasts 1-2 sceonds and then everything is fine. Happens when I leave work with about 1 minute warm up. When I hit 4-5000 it happens. It does it if it is 10 degrees or 90 degree outside. No MIL lights and it runs fine the rest of the time. Has done it for the last 10,000 miles without getting worse. Currently has 67,000 and everything is original under the hood. I haven't dug deeper into yet since I rate it as only a minor annoyance. Oh yeah, mine is a 98 Duratec though.
 

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What can someone do to get better throttle response?
 
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Clean the maf, use Brake Kleen of Berrymans..

Remove the maf from the car, hose it down liberly (you trying to clean the element) I forget but on yours I think there is a hole facing the input section of your maf. Spray in there and clean the wires inside. It can spray back at you so wear eye protection.

Besides a chip you can also play with your voltage on your tps to get a bit better response. there is a required voltage for all fords and ford never tunes this. WOrks ok on the SHO and all the Mustang guys do it. I forget the voltage so do a search on TPS voltage on google.
 

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How can i get a chip for a Gen 1 taurus?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, I've had the car for 6 + years now, and I've put on 180,000 miles on it, so I'm pretty familiar with how it normally takes off. These standard 3.0's are a little doggy from a dead start, but this is a fairly new problem. It's almost as if it's missing, but only from a stopped position, with a a semi-hard acceleration. I've taken off like this many time in the past, and it has never done this.

I tried to clean the MAF with throttle body cleaner by spraying it right on the wires, but it does not change anything. The only thing I did not do was to remove the MAF from the air intake, and clean the back side of it...would that make a difference?

There is also a little sensor that looks like a little light bulb, and it goes into the air intake right before the throttle body. What is that thing, and could it be causing this?

I've heard I should be looking at my camshaft position sensor? Can anyone comment on that?

And if it is that.....can anyone tell me how to replace it? Hopefully I can do it myself!!
 

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The light-bulb thing is your IAT (intake ait temperature) sensor. It is a thermistor that lowers resistnace with an increase in temperature. Your ECU uses the resistance data to determine the air density and adjust the air/fuel ratio.

Cleaning the back of your MAF is not necessary, it's only the wires in the sample tube that matter.

As far as a chip for the Gen I, ask alberto at American Motorsport. I don't know if he works on GEN I's, but I got a chip for my GEN III from him, and absolutely love it.

The voltage from the TPS at WOT is 5v.
 

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Any luck figuring out problem? I have a 98' Duratec w/92,000 miles and had developed same problem. Especially with the AC running. Taking off from a redlight with moderate acceleration car is hesitant then it will pick up and go. Otherwise, car runs GREAT... no codes stored and car has had major tune-up etc. in past 5,000 miles. Problem started about 2,000 miles ago AFTER tune-up. Help?
 
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