Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I was wandering if anyone could help me figure this out? I have a 96 Taurus with an 3.0 v-6 and a ax4s transmission. I just bought it from a lady in town, and she said it wouldn't move. I went and looked at the car first actually before i bought it, and it started up, i put it in gear, i could feel the transmission engage, and the engine sped up, but no movement. After about 10 minutes of going through the gears, finally it kicked into all forward gears but no reverse. I did a brake torque check ( a very mild one might i ad) to see if it would pull it did fine. I told her i would think about it and left. She called me back the next day and said she would almost give me the car, very nice looking running car, so i jumped on the deal. I went to go pick it up, hoping that it would make it to my house 15 miles away. I started the car let it roll backwards out of the drive, cause no reverse. Put it in gear, went right into gear no problem, drove it all the way home, up some mountains might i ad. No slippage , shifted great, got it home and, parked it.
The next day i went out to play with my new toy, and would not go into gear, any of them, then after about 10 minutes it warms up, and goes into gear just fine, but still no reverse. Reverse engages but no movement, i got it to move 1 time, and it shuttered, like it was trying, and it moved about 4 feet.
I drained the pan to see if there were metal shavings, none what so ever.
The fluid is kind of brown though, I pulled off the side pan to look at the pump, pump shaft ect. opened up the valve body every thing looks good, no broken clips , nothing.
I was wandering if there was a way to pressure test the valve body vanes for blockage, while it is off the car? also, if anyone can think of any other issues that might have caused this? I am really stumped, and in the middle of nowhere, so taking it to a transmission shop is not an option.
Sorry about the long thread post, but i was trying to give as many details as possible. Someone please help! Thanks!:unsure:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
480 Posts
If the tranny fluid was brown, then that may be a problem, I would change the fluid and filter and see if maybe it wasn't getting fluid up in there to shift until it warmed up and knocked out all the crud.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
728 Posts
Sounds like it could have a bunch of crud above the valve body, and/or the valve body is full of crud not allowing the hydraulic pressure to build up.

There is a way to test hydraulic pressures, but it takes a special gauge set to do that. Not something an owner might not want to do.

I'd pull the filter and see if the crud is above it. The fluid and filter are cheap enough and worth the work to change those. If it moves, you are good to go.

It is possible that reverse gear is out (it should have a code for that) but if there are no gear out of range codes, it might be just sludge buildup.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,538 Posts
Yes, check the filter to see how nasty it is. I would fill it up with MERCON V first and drive it a bit to see if the fresh detergents will loosen up the sticking valve.

Don't remove the valve body yet because there are lots of small parts that will fall out (it's a can of worms unless you know what you're doing).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,235 Posts
Make sure the pump is working on a cold start. With the engine running in park the fluid level should be normal. If it is very high, the pump is likely not turning(stripped spline plate in torque converter). You can also test it with a guage, but that's harder.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I already took the valve body out, and i am planning on installing a sonnax sure cure shift kit, I checked all the retainer clips to see if any were broke, none were. So since i have it out already, i might as well install the shift kit. I checked the pump shaft, looked in the pump also, i couldnt turn the pump shaft by hand either. But my question is , once the valve body is out, is the pump shaft supposed to pull out of the torque convertor? This is my very first transmission i've ever messed with on a car, i figured since i got it so cheep, if i do mess up, i could still buy a rebuilt tranny, I have done a few motorcycle, lawnmower transmissions, i have been doin alot of research, and bought manuals, mostly every thing was pointing toward the valve body, pump, or shaft, I wish i would have checked the filter first, i could have saved alot of headache pulling the valve body possibly. Thanks guys for the advice, it is really appreciated, i will keep you posted.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Boost valve and sleeve, sleeve kit
Bypass clutch control sleeve kit
Forward control valve kit
3-2 shift timing valve saver
retainer clips
relief valve
ring gear retaining ring
split retainer clip
servo tube bracket
oil pump shaft plug.
That is for the kit i'm getting, im not sure about the others. Hope this helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,006 Posts
Make sure the iron rings on each side of the pump rotor are good, the pump bearing, shaft (splines too) and sleeve in the valve body are all good. Also the outer ring the pump vanes run in is smooth, all the way around.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,795 Posts
This is starting to sound to me like the infamous forward clutch apply piston failure (or piston seal failure) that plagued Ford on these transmissions even after several redesigns of the piston and switching from aluminum to steel for the piston.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
728 Posts
Do i have to pull the transmission to get to it or can i go from the valve body area?
You will need to yank the transmission out of the car to do that piston seal and its assembly. The pump will need to be pulled and other parts removed to get to it.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top