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Discussion Starter #1
My taurus stranded me 5 times today in horrific heat. I have NEVER had the car do anything like it did today. Before my car would very rarely miss and die at idle but today it died under hard acceleration and took a minute to start back up. I then took it on an 1/8th mile drive to see if the problem seemed gone and it was ok (i wasn't hard on it after that) so i managed to go probably 5 miles and then it started to lose power, then stall.
Got it to start back up and it went another 5 miles or so and it died again, started up after a few minutes and got another 3 miles and same thing. Then drove to a gas station to give the car a little break before trying to hit the highway again but it started missing hard. I managed to backup a very short distance and it died. Then it wouldn't start enough to stay running, it would miss hard and die. I managed to limp it over to a fence (felt like running on only a couple cylinders where it died as soon as i stopped) I had to pump the throttle to limp it over. After that i kept trying to start it for about an hour and couldn't get it to idle for more than 2 seconds.

So i got a tow truck to show up after exhausting all of my options and it started up in two tries (was like a 4 hour wait) and it made it all the way back home. (10 miles or so). but at a light i was a little harder on the throttle and it didnt have enough power so i let off to make sure i wouldnt kill it. It threw a code but i dont have the reader with me to check it. It didnt throw a code until the final ride home.

I know without me really testing much yet I can't be of much help, but does anyone have any thoughts on this with a SHO? I don't suspect i could have enough ****ty coils to cause it to die and it doesn't really make sense during driving.

I'm going to get some starting fluid so i can try to see if its fuel delivery problem, but now with this being my only car, i cant even trust it to get me anywhere. I'm pretty scared to drive it and get stranded. I was offered $350 for it but I obviously don't want to toss it yet when it may be pointed out by the code.

Also, this problem is not from the fuel level. I literally filled that thing up the day before.

So please shoot me some ideas or things i can try. I am so worried about this car that I cant even drive to my aunts funeral.

Also if anyone is interested in buying a welded 96 sho, i'm not against trying to just get out from under this thing.
 

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Fuel pump or CCRM relay going out when getting hot. I had the same problem with my 94 taurus 3.8 awhile back. turned out to be CCRM.
 

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Fuel

Air

Spark

That's how engines go. They try to overcomplicate it. What is missing?

When the car dies, is there pressure in the fuel rail?

217k? in CHICAGO - i.e. rust belt - I would check the usual grounds for corrosion. Next to the computer on the firewall is probably the #1 suspect on a V8 SHO. #2 is the ground on the fender just behind the battery. #3 is the main wire from the battery to the starter.

Air - intake air temp sensor messed up. MAF dirty. TPS not reading correctly.

One of these ideas SHOuld get you back on track.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Ok I checked the codes and I have P0307, P0171, P0174.

I do have one spare coil I can swap out with the cylinder 7misfire, bit what are your thoughts about both banks being lean? Bought starting fluid in case it stays dead for a long time. Testing spark sounds unusual with a cop setup. And I don't really know about the shader valve thing for testing fuel. And how can you test air?

Edit* it died again and started back up to make it the 5miles home. So its not only a hot day problem.
 

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Have you tested fuel pressure?
^^

This.

Take off the little black plastic cap on the small bike tire valve, on the fuel rail at the passenger's side by the pressure regulator.

Turn the key on for 5 seconds and turn off. Do it again. now go and take a small flat screwdriver or similar and depress the valve on the fuel rail.

It should squirt fuel so stand back a bit. No squirt = Bad fuel pump.
 

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Seeing as how you say it happened when it was Hot outside & after the engine was fully warmed up, IF your still using, or just before the problem began, bought Winter fuel, which has had its vapor pressure lowered for easier cold weather starts, that lower vapor pressure fuel on a Hot day, in a Hot engine can cause Vapor Lock!!!!

We are on a major north/south interstate route, so see this happen a lot this time of year during a hot spell, with folks from cold country headed south with winter fuel onboard!!!
 

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After doing some research on the codes...

Check the fuel pump, and fuel filter, replace as needed.

Then check the COPs, Plugs, and coil pack, replace as needed.

Then check your MAF Signal, then clean the MAF and TB. Check your EGR Valve, and PCV hose.

You may also have a vacuum leak.

I don't wanna see this SHO go into the wrong hands! Yes I saw your CL ad lol :D
 

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Take off the little black plastic cap on the small bike tire valve, on the fuel rail at the passenger's side by the pressure regulator.

Turn the key on for 5 seconds and turn off. Do it again. now go and take a small flat screwdriver or similar and depress the valve on the fuel rail.

It should squirt fuel so stand back a bit. No squirt = Bad fuel pump.
I don't like this test because it will still squirt fuel even if there is insufficient fuel pressure to start the car or prevent vapor lock. Better to actually measure the pressure with a gauge and listen for pump running during key cycle.
 

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Shall we start a poll as to how many active members DO have a screw on fuel pressure tester vs those who don't?

This is just speed troubleshooting at this point. If it squirts, it has a better than 50% chance of the fuel pump not being the problem and time to click down the list. Plenty of other items that are worth checking.
 

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All the Gen 3 SHOs will have one. It's there, just look for it.

Ford deleted the valve around June 2002 made Vulcans and Duratec motors. Another reason to yank an older fuel rail if you don't want to depend on a PID from OBD2
 

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I looked at your codes. One is bad coil or bad plug. I know the coils for this car are expensive, and the ones on ebay are hit and miss. I modified Accel coils for the 4.6/5.4 DOHC motors. Plus the are $30.00 a piece. Change the plugs. I run Motorcraft Finewire. Clean the MAF, remove the EGR valve clean the intake out where it mounts, I would replace the O2 sensors. Your getting a lean condition and the ECU is fighting its self. The good thing is your bad coil is up front. Also check your vacuum lines on the back of the surge tank, just to make sure they aren't cracked. That's where I would start.
 

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There are a few TSB's regarding 96 SHO's stalling.

Article No.
97-17-9 STALL - ON DECELERATION AND/OR INTERMITTENT STALL IN WARM WEATHER - VEHICLES BUILT THROUGH 8/18/96 AND SHO BUILT THROUGH 8/6/96

Publication Date: AUGUST 18, 1997

FORD: 1996 TAURUS SHO, TAURUS
LINCOLN-MERCURY: 1996 SABLE


This TSB article is being republished in its entirety to correct a service part number.

CALIBRATION:
6-10A-R07, 6-10A-R10, 6-10A-R11, 6-10A-R12, 6-10S-R07, 6-10S-R10, 6-10S-R11, 6-10S-R12, 6-10B-R06, 6-10B-R10, 6-10B-R11, 6-10B-R12, 6-10T-R06, 6-10T-R10, 6-10T-R11, 6-10T-R12, 6-14A-R07, 6-14A-R08, 6-14A-R10, 6-14A-R11, 6-14S-R07, 6-14S-R08, 6-14S-R10, 6-14S-R11, 6LDA-JAD

WARNING: THIS MODIFICATION IS AUTHORIZED ONLY FOR THE LISTED ENGINE. PERFORMING THIS MODIFICATION ON OTHER ENGINE CALIBRATIONS IS UNAUTHORIZED AND COULD CREATE LIABILITY UNDER APPLICABLE FEDERAL OR LOCAL LAWS.



ISSUE:
Some vehicles may stall on deceleration and/or have an intermittent stall in warm weather. This may be caused by the vapor control valve not supplying a steady flow of fuel from the tank to the intake manifold.

ACTION:
Replace the fuel tank, vapor control valve, fuel fill tube cap and clamp. Install heat shield over fuel tank and reprogram the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). This should reduce the possibility of stalling. Refer to the following text for details.

Perform all diagnostics for stalling by following the procedures outlined in the 1996 Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) Service Manual and 1996 Taurus/Sable Service Manual, Pages 03-13-5 through 03-13-8. Check to be sure Grounds 401 (sedans) and 400 (wagons) are secure. Check for a kink in the canister vent hose and repair as required.

If no other concerns are found, reprogram the PCM using the latest level CD-ROM update disc and refer to the following PCM Application Chart for correct PCM usage. Replace the fuel tank, vapor control valve, and vapor management valve by following the procedure outlined in the Instruction Sheet included in the Fuel System Service Kit.
Article No.
97-6-7 MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL) - DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) P0172, P0175, P1130, P1150 AND/OR P1152 STORED IN MEMORY AND/OR STALL ON LOW SPEED ACCELERATION OR DECELERATION - 3.4L SHO VEHICLES ONLY
STALL - ON LOW SPEED DECELERATION OR ACCELERATION AND/OR MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL) WITH DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) P0172, P0175, P1130, P1150 AND/OR P1152 STORED IN MEMORY - 3.4L SHO VEHICLES ONLY
LAMP - MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL) - DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) P0172, P0175, P1130, P1150 AND/OR P1152 STORED IN MEMORY AND/OR STALL ON LOW SPEED ACCELERATION OR DECELERATION - 3.4L SHO VEHICLES ONLY

Publication Date: MARCH 17, 1997

FORD: 1996-97 TAURUS SHO


ISSUE:
Some vehicles may stall on a low speed deceleration and/or acceleration and may have Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P0172, P0175, P1130, P1150 and/or P1152 stored in memory. This may be caused by an obstructed fuel injection supply manifold.

ACTION:
Measure fuel pressure at the inlet to the fuel injection supply manifold using Rotunda Tool D85L-9974-B. If pressure equals or exceeds 296 kPa (43 psi), remove and replace the Fuel Injection Supply Manifold (F6DZ-9D280-A). Refer to the appropriate year Taurus Service Manual for removal and installation procedures. Be sure to return all parts to the Warranty Parts Return Center (WPRC).


PART NUMBER PART NAME
F6DZ-9D280-A Fuel Injection Supply Manifold
 

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Discussion Starter #16
That is good and troublesome that you managed to find tsb's about the stalling. I really do feel like the problem is in fuel delivery.
The problem I imagine with checking fuel pressure by Depressing the Fuel Valve is that the stalling is intermittent. I could go out there and start it now so fuel pump would be working at the moment.

So one possible problem is the Fuel vapor pressure valve, but that requires replacing the tank and reprogramming. And the other is that the fuel isn't getting there by a clog or other means. I would like to try hooking up a fuel pressure gauge and drive the car to see if the pressure drops. Is anyone familiar with any members that have had to replace the tank and valve?
 

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Dude. stop.

Go to the part store and rent a fuel pressure test kit. Think it's $100-150 (which you get upon return).

Hook it up. Test your fuel pressure while cranking the car. And if you can get it to run, check pressure then.

Otherwise, you are wasting time. Diagnose before throwing $/parts at it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I wasn't going to throw random parts at it, I don't have that sort of money.
What's difference between the 100-150 test kit from an auto store and the 20 dollar kit from HF (besides probably accuracy)
The car drives, so its getting enough pressure to run me around some, but after making a few short tips today it made a little sputter that lowered my idle for a second but didn't kill the car. I don't have the guess to be heavy on the accelerator to see if that gives the stall.
 

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Ok so your lean on both banks and is stalls. Have you checked vac hoses are all connected. If they are then its the pump. I have experinced this before twice and first time was a vac hose was broken. Second time the pump had shot. It would build pressure, but once it warmed up it would not get the volume it needed. In your case i really feel its the pump cause its lean on both banks. But be safe and check your hoses first.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Are there a lot of vac hoses on this engine, I see a few buy the throttle body but I imagine there could be a million buried under the intake manifold.
Would heavy throttle making it stall lead you to feel even more strongly that the fuel pump is becoming weak? Because the day it died for many hours I was a little hard on it at a light when I got it movingv and it sputtered so I let off and was back to normal.
Honestly I also think its the fuel pump, but I'll check pressure before I buy a pump.

And I think I recall members here saying they typically cut an access through the trunk to get the the pump because the only other option is to drop the tank.
 
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