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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey All,

Well I've done some searching and can't seem to find another post with the exact same issue. Lately, since the cold weather hit, my 95 GL has had trouble starting from a cold start/re-start (IE: over night).

This moring, I went to move the car so my mom could get her car out of the driveway. I pulled my GL out, parked it and went back inside for a few hours. I came back out to go out to my Drama Club rehearsal, got in, went to start it, it fired up, idled at about 500 RPM for about 30 seconds and stalled causing all the accessory lights to come on. I hit the ignition again, the car fired up and ran just fine. Drove about 10 miles up the road to school. Went in around 12PM EST, and hoped back in the car around 5:30PM EST, fired up and drove to my friends house. I was there until about 8:30PM EST. I then went to leave and the car would not start up. I held the ignition switch for about 10-15 seconds, released it, tryed again, and it fired up without incident. Drove home without an issue. When the car is hard to start, the engine cranks, it just doesn't catch.

I also know that recently, I have been having to add water to the radiator and over flow tank. Not a whole lot but enough to say that there is probably a leak somewhere. I start to realize the car is low on water when the thermostat on the instrument panel rises and drops rapidly and I loose cabin heat or I physically check it. I will be back flushing the heater core once I have a warmer day here. I have not seen anything on the ground or even on the engine to indicate a leak. The carpet inside the cab is also dry so I don't believe the heater core is leaking. As far as the oil goes, I just changed it a few days ago and it was fine. Did not appear as if water had been in it indicating a blown headgasket. Think this issue is related to the hard start issue or just coincidence? I also know that when I first start it up, there is a lot of white steam coming from the exhuast, especially when I step on the accelerator. It seems to go away once the car warms up. Is this normal? Just excess condensation burning off?

From what I read, on the SHO motor, right underneith the water pump is either the crank/cam shaft position sensor and if the pump leaks, it shorts the sensor out causing the car to have a hard time starting. Is this true for the 95 Vulcan? I don't see anything coming from the pump on my car per-say, but that doesn't mean there isnt.

Like I stated above, this issue started when the cold weather hit us here in RI. The car has had a TON of work done to it in the last few months. Including, but not limited to:

-New plugs (not wires/cap/rotor) - This is my next endevor, any suggestions on wire brand etc?
-New fuel pump/tank/filter
-New radiator/houses/thermostat
-New starter

The car had a fairly new battery (84 month - vintage Dec. 2005) in it when I bought it and I have not replaced it as it appears to be OK. Holds a decent charge etc. When this issue happens, I get no Check Engine indicator light or anything like that.

Any ideas guys? I'm kind of racking my brain on this one. It's probably a simple issue or something that I am missing.

Thanks,
-Alex
 

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233 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Whole thing. Pump and module. Then 3 or 4 days later the tank began leaking. Go figure lol. The reason the pump got replace was that I was going to work one day and the car just died out in the middle of the road (I know I seem to have a lot of issues with this car, but it's just part of rebuilding a car, you've gotta work the bugs out). I wasn't sure if it was a clogged filter or pump failing. So I replaced both. When I pulled the filter off, the "sludge" in it was black. So I'm glad I changed it as well.

I was also planning to throw a new fuel regulator in there as well, but the part store gave me the wrong one and the car seemed to be running correctly, so I just returned it.

-Alex
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'll give it a shot, it usually seems to start normally on the second try. What would be causing a bleed off? Fuel regulator?

-Alex
 

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7,881 Posts
Either the FPR or the antibackflow valve in the fuel pump can cause rapid pressure bleed down.
 

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233 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Hey all,

Here's a quick update. I went to advance auto parts today and picked up and installed the following:

-New cap/rotor
-New wires
-New temp. sensor
-New Vehicle coolant sensor
-New fuel pressure reg.

I was going to replace the TPS (throttle position sensor) but it wasn't in stock.

After replacing the items above, the car seems to be a little better. Seems to have better accerelation. Maybe it's just me.

On the plus side, when I pulled back into the garage after taking the car for a test run, I noticed my lower radiator hose was leaking. I tightend it up and am hoping thats where all my coolant was going. Why it showed up now, who knows.

-Alex
 

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If your engine has over 100K miles on it, I suggest that you replace the distributor. The breakerless ignition module inside of it has a tendency to fail when it gets over 100K miles on it. Failure symptoms on teh one that I replaced on my 87 Taurus are similar to yours, and both cars share the same distributor.

It is cheaper to buy a rebuilt distributor with a lifetime warranty (less than $75), than to buy a replacement module (one year warranty or less), and pay a machine shop to disassemble the disbributor and replace the module (you need a press to disassemble the distributor).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'll look into that, though my car only has a little less then 54k on it currently. That doesn't mean it couldn't be failing.

Although with the repairs I did this week to it, it seems to run better now. I plan on putting in a new TPS at some point as well.

-Alex
 
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