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hi
i have never worked on a taurus , this is a friends car that they bought used. its a 1994 3.0 with 73,0000 miles. the oil light flickered at low rpms, so the iac was replaced, that didnt cure it, but the new iac cured the stalling problem. anyway now the oil light wont go out and its making noise. before this it ticked on acceleration , but now the light wont go off.
a mechanic had looked at the car and said he thinks that the original owner put in heavier weight oil to cover up the problem. also he said that a new oil pump might not cure the problem. the thing that stinks is that 1 week before all this started they had $ 800 of front end work done and new brakes. also it does need motor mounts too, which hasn't been done. i do not know much about taurus cars, so could this car be done for? how hard is it to replace an oil pump on these 1994 years? the mechanic said it could be about $ 500 to replace the oil pump and like he said that may not help. my friend does not think they want to put more money into this car as the health of the engine is unsure. if its not super hard to do a oil pump on our own it might be worth a shot. ive searched some on replacing the oil pump , but cant seem to get a clear answer on what kinda of job it is to do, that's why i figure i would ask guy's who really know these cars.
thank you for any advice

eddie

p.s. sorry i dont a taurus or sable, but i do have a 1984 cougar a 1989 continental and a 1995 towncar.
 

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Welcome to TCCA.

Has the oil pressure been checked with a shop gauge????

Can you describe what kind of noise its making now, is it a squeel, high up toward the firewall on the engine, or a tic high up around the vlave covers, or a thunk type knock low down like around the oil pan????

Has the oil level been checked, or has the oil & filter been changed since the oil pressure warning light has stayed on????
 

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As pawpaw said, first thing to do is get a mechanical OP gauge on it and see whatthe pressure is both at idle and 2000RPM with oil cold and at operating temperature.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
the oil level is fine and it was changed and has about 1,000 miles left. the sound is coming from the top , it sounds like marbles rolling around. tonite i put some bahr's engine repair in it. the oil light stayed off, though i didnt drive it far, about 4 miles.
the noise is not much when it idles, but when you drive it is there, also when you give it more gas. im guessing its the valves rapping???? i will get a gauge and check the pressure. i have never done that before. how do you do it ?
thanks

eddie
 

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the oil level is fine and it was changed and has about 1,000 miles left. the sound is coming from the top , it sounds like marbles rolling around. tonite i put some bahr's engine repair in it. the oil light stayed off, though i didnt drive it far, about 4 miles.
the noise is not much when it idles, but when you drive it is there, also when you give it more gas. im guessing its the valves rapping???? i will get a gauge and check the pressure. i have never done that before. how do you do it ?
thanks

eddie
Remove the oil pressure sending unit & install the mechanical oil gauge there.

Have the valve covers been removed & if so what kind of deposits does the top end of the engine have. If they've not been removed, what can you see looking in through the oil fill port & what kind of deposits are on the oil dipstick, or oil fil cap????

The marble noise sounds like lifter protest, maybe from engine sludge, or varnish. Do you know the vehicles past maintenance history for oil & filter change frequency???? Which oil filter, service grade & viscosity oil is in there now????? This engine was origionally specified for 5w-30, but has been back specified by Ford 10 years ago to be able to use 5w-20.

Did this noise come about suddenly after some event, or slowly over time????
 

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Low oil pressure, lifters chatter because of that low pressure... Bearings are probably worn, you need to go asap to 5W40 and/or a filter with lower pressure drop (K&N). Like this you bearings will continue to wear at accelerate pace (with that low presure) to the point of no return.

Also, you could try to drop the oil pan and clean the sludge from the oil pump pick up strainer. Diesel oil (5W40 from above) has better detergents and will help cleaning the eventual sludge in the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
paw paw
i dont know what kinda of care this car has had , my friend bought it used and i dont know how many other owners it had. im not sure what kinda of oil is in it now. i will do the oil gauge pressure check and change the oil too. on thursday i will look inside the oil filler and see what it looks like the dip stick looks fine though. the noise started when the oil light would come on ad low speeds or idle, with that the car would stall. we changed the IAC and it didnt stall anymore, but the oil light would come on at idle and low speeds, but only after driving for about 20 minutes and that when the noise would start when the oil light started to come on and off and the rapping noise would start. when the light went away with more gas the noise would eventually stop.

sonic.... do i have to ask for a specific K&N oil filter with a lower pressure drop , or are all K&N oil filters that way ? and use the 5w-40 oil with it.

also another question , when i looked for an oil pressure sending unit ( not that i know yet if i need that or a oil pump) i looked on rock auto and all i could find is an oil pressure switch.... thats not the same thing as a oil sending unit is it?
thank you
eddie
 

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When you change the oil, you might try rigging a flat piece of 10gauge copper wire pounded flat & formed into a sort of "?" mark on the end that'll fit in the oil drain hole, to use as a rake to give you an idea of what kind & level of deposit load may be on the bottom of the oil pan sump.

Any signs of varnish on the engine oil dipstick????

The specified Motorcraft oil filter has very low pressure drop across the filter.

After replacing the IAC, did you remove the Battery B- cable to wipe the KAM, which also wipes the fuel trim tables & cold & warm idle strategy, then go through the cold & warm idle relearn routine???? If not, doing the idle relearn routine may help some on idle speed, oil pressure warning light flicker & driveability. EDIT: Idle relearn routine http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/1358165-post4.html

Its a little difficult right now to know if its a deposit load, or bearing wear, or a combination there-of problem, but going to the 5W-40 might shed some light on it if the rattle or idle low oil pressure warning light problems subside, or take a hike.
It's also not known if the vehicle really just has 73K on it, or if it's 173k, or 273K, but if its really just 73K, the engine shouldn't be worn out, or sludged up if its had regular oil change service over its life time & the sump rake test might shed so light on the question.

Seeing as how this is a Vulcan 3.0L, is it making any kind of squeeking sound on top of the engine, back next to the firewall where the distributor used to be????? If so, suspect a problem with the cam sync assy, off which the engine oil pump is driven. This mechanical arrangement is known for poor lube problems & siezure or parts that strip the oil pump drive gears, so have a close listen to that area, maybe with a stethoscope & if any untoward noise is coming from that part of the engine, don't drive it, until that complete assy is changed out with new Motorcraft parts.

More thoughts for consideration, keep us posted on your findings.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
well i went to 2 different parts store to get a mechanical oil pressure tester, and they wanted $70, but i found one at amazon for $ 32, so now its on order. in the mean time i got the 5w-40 oil and i will get the motorcraft filter friday and change the oil and see what happens with that. i also tried to get a K&N filter and they didnt carry them or motorcraft, so im hitting the dealer for that. i will keep posted what happens, thank you
eddie
 

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Walmart in my area carries Motorcraft oil filters for less than $4.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
well i havent been back for a bit as work kept me crazy.. anyway i changed the oil and the filter and forgot to do the piece of wire in the oil pan check like you said pawpaw. that because i had to change the oil in the parking lot and where i live you cant do that , but i did it quickly. the noise is there up on top . it sounds like the lifters???? hitting the covers. it gets louder as you step on the gas and when you slow down its not as bad. at idle it comes and goes. when takeing off i give it gas very easy . there are no deposits on the oil stick and looking inside the oil filler neck it looks fairly clean. thanks eddie
 

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Have you done the oil pressure check yet?????

What viscosity oil & which oil filter did you use????

What kind of deposits are visable on the top end through the oil fill port????
 

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I'll second on what filter did you use?
My Co. van w/244k on it had 2 oil changes with a no name filter put on. Lost 10-15 psi on the gauge. (chevy with a real pressure reading) Had another change with a Purolator filter instead of some junk fleet filter that was used on the prev. 2 changes and voilà 10 lbs of oil pressure returned and the the startup lifter rattle went away.
Not my truck so it got a long term test with real results. 2k on the Puro filter now with zero issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i used the ford oil filter and 5w-40 as said. there are no deposits or gunk in the filler neck. i did not do the oil pressure check yet. i have to get an oil pressure gauge . i asked at the parts store and they wanted $ 70 and i found one on harbor freight for like $30 ,but i was looking for a stick type one that i have seen before and cant find.
 

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i used the ford oil filter and 5w-40 as said. there are no deposits or gunk in the filler neck. i did not do the oil pressure check yet. i have to get an oil pressure gauge . i asked at the parts store and they wanted $ 70 and i found one on harbor freight for like $30 ,but i was looking for a stick type one that i have seen before and cant find.
Seeing as how you haven't purchased a gauge yet, check with your local auto parts stores to see if they have one for a refundable deposit in their "Loan-A-Tool" program. If so, no need to buy one!!!!

Notice any difference in engine noise with the new oil & filter????

The Vulcan engine is known to have top end oiling problems that can cause premature wear at the rocker/push rod/valve stem interfaces if the specified service grade lube & oci isn't followed.
 
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