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So my '94 Taurus cant hold and idle in drive or reverse but it will hold one perfectly fine in park and neutral. It starts to sputter out and first but when i give it gas it can hold itself together. Also when I do give it gas in drive/reverse i can hear, what sounds like, a knocking type noise. I've replaced my fuel filter, my IAC valve and my cap/rotor. Any ideas?
 

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Did you figure this out yet?

I am experiencing the same problem (without the knocking though). I just ordered a new TPS, DPFE sensor and EGR vac solenoid. I'll let you know if any of these items fixes my probs.
 

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I replaced all of the aforementioned items (along with new plugs and crank sensor) with no luck. The car does run better, but still shutters when put into drive/reverse.
 

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Maybe it's the torque converter not unlocking. Did it happen after some event????
 

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It's on my mom's car. Nothing happened to it that I know of. She just mentioned a few weeks back that it was acting funny. I replaced a bunch of items and cleaned the IAC, but the car still acts weird when you first put it into reverse or drive. Like you said, I think the TCC solenoid is causing the TC to lock when it shouldn't be locked.
 

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Has the tranny filter been replaced & a full fluid pumpout ever been done????
 

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A "shudder" kinda suggests maybe the tranny fluid friction modifiers have broken down with the mileage it has on it. Has the fluid ever been changed, if not, how does it feel, smell & look??? If it's gritty, or smells burned, or looks any other color than red, it needs a pan drop filter change & full fluid pumpout.

Have you done the "poor mans oil analisis blotter paper test", if so, what kind of pattern did the drop of oil make???
 

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Forgot to respond to this thread. After I posted, my mom's car came up with a misfire on cyl 3 (don't remember the code number). Did some internet searching and most people with this problem had a bad coil pack. So, I replaced the coil pack and she hasn't had a problem since.

I couldn't see any visual probs with her old coil (apparently quite a few people have cracks on them...check the under side as well).

I would recommend replacement of the coil pack...something easy to try for less than $60...
 

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Forgot to respond to this thread. After I posted, my mom's car came up with a misfire on cyl 3 (don't remember the code number). Did some internet searching and most people with this problem had a bad coil pack. So, I replaced the coil pack and she hasn't had a problem since.

I couldn't see any visual probs with her old coil (apparently quite a few people have cracks on them...check the under side as well).

I would recommend replacement of the coil pack...something easy to try for less than $60...
OK, good find, fix & feedback & to hear Mom is on the road again.

So the shudder was a misfire problem that finally lit the CEL/SES trouble light.

If a coilpack has external electrical leakage, a spray bottle wet down test will often find it & yes cracks underneath are common. Most autoparts stores can bench test the coilpack at no cost.

SO, SamiGuthrie, did you find out why your 94 was stalling in D & R?????
 
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