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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I bought his wagon super cheap because it is extremely clean with low miles. (45k)
Everything was fine the few times I went to look at it and drive it. It sat for two three years with a dead battery. Threw one in and drove it around twice for like ten minutes. Well two weeks later I go pick it up and it has a check engine light. Which wouldn’t be a big deal buttttttt this does not have an obd1 port. It has the EEC Test from Ford. Tried buying a old school probe scanner ford specific and it didn’t work. Then tries jumping the connection with a wire didn’t work nothing flashed on my dash.
The way it runs I swore it was a tps because it was hard to start without starting fluid. It idled a little rough and wouldn’t let me give throttle anything past 25% would be nothing it’d slow me down actually. Oh and TERRIBLE gas mileage. 80 miles off of a full tank.!
Please help I’m cheap and don’t like wasting money on parts that aren’t needed.
 

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Often, when cars 'sit for two or three years' there's a reason for it.
However, perhaps after sitting for so long an injector is stuck open and shooting gas in there (see YT vids). Pull the plugs - if one is all wet and the others are dry 'There's your problem lady.'
Free first steps: see what the air cleaner looks like, clean throttle body, mass airflow sensor and IAC (Idle Air Control Valve), check/clean grounds.
If the gas smells bad, maybe siphon/pump it out.
 

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There are instructions all over the web about how to pull codes from Ford OBD1 systems by jumping 2 pins on the EEC TEST connector under the hood (top of firewall pass side) and watching the CEL flash out codes. Be sure to run the KOEO, CM and KOER codes and report back with the results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
@Jeff K Yes I know however it did not work. I even tried a few different connector ports and got no flashing or anything on the dash.
Even tried buying a ford specific scanner with three probes on it that plugs into that EEC TEST plug and no codes popped up and bo flashing.

There are instructions all over the web about how to pull codes from Ford OBD1 systems by jumping 2 pins on the EEC TEST connector under the hood (top of firewall pass side) and watching the CEL flash out codes. Be sure to run the KOEO, CM and KOER codes and report back with the results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Often, when cars 'sit for two or three years' there's a reason for it.
However, perhaps after sitting for so long an injector is stuck open and shooting gas in there (see YT vids). Pull the plugs - if one is all wet and the others are dry 'There's your problem lady.'
Free first steps: see what the air cleaner looks like, clean throttle body, mass airflow sensor and IAC (Idle Air Control Valve), check/clean grounds.
If the gas smells bad, maybe siphon/pump it out.
@Jiyu Shugi
Well I was told originally it sat because this guy I got it from his wife’s uncle Spec’d it and bought it new. He drove it for 20k miles he had other vehicles as well. Then he gave it to the guy I bought it from which was his nieces husband. He drove it for 20k no issues then I guess the CEL came on and then one of the nylon lines blew out under the passenger footwell so he put a compression fitting in and by that time the battery had died and hejust Never bought a new one to put in it because he also had multiple vehicles. Which Is the only reason it sat because this thing is EXTREMELY clean inside and out. Zero rust and a little dent in the driver fender.

So I find it go throw a batt in the next day Fired right up no CEL drove it around ten min and parked. Did the same thing the next day mind you this is with a 1/8 tank or bad fuel and 5 bucks of fresh fuel. Parked it and it was fine. Go back almost two weeks later throw my battery in it fire it up run it for like ten minutes pretty much idling then I killed it. Five min later fired it back up and BOOM CEL. At first I was having to take my battery in and out which messed with me because the first three days sometimes it would be on and other it’d be off. Well the past three days I’ve had a battery in it and ran it everyday and the CEL has never went off once.

After I got him home I filled with fresh gas and octane boost and upper cylinder lube and it just Hit e three days ago and I’ve put and ran out probably 20 bucks since then I’m im currently at 153 miles so you’d think the bad gas is all gone by now but it still smells terrible when running. Really rich and kinda smells like moth balls

Cleaned MAF sensor with brake cleaner (which I guess you aren’t supposed to do) then plugged batt back in and it was off.! Ran it for a while killed it and when I fired it back up CEL was back and hasn’t went away since. That was three days ago. Last night completely took off the Throttle body cleaned it all out along with what I believe is the idle control.? The thing bolted on the very top of the throttle body looks like it has a little electric motor on it.?
Put all back together hooked the batt anddddd nothing still on.

So at this point I’m like 90% convinced it’s the TPS because alllllll the symptoms sound identical. Terrible mileage, rough idle, terrible at acceling up to speed. Doesn’t let me give anymore than 20% throttle even if I’m up too speed.

Sorry for long reply just wanna be as open as possible so you guys have a better understanding.
 

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Weird..... I currently own / have owned 6 EEC IV Fords and never had any issues pulling codes by jumping the EEC TEST connector. Common with EEC IV PCMs to fail to output codes if the PCM suffers an internal failure or there is an issue with the PCM grounds (PCM pins 40 and 60).

Easy to test TPS.... be sure you have very close to 5.0 V between orange and black wires at TPS connector with key on. If so, measure volts between black and green TPS wires. Closed throttle should be under 1 V (.9x V typical) and increase smoothly as throttle is opened. At WOT TPS volts should be around 4.5 V. If these voltages are good, TPS is good.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well I try jumping it with a wire and turn the key and wait for the flashes but nothing happens. I've watched videos and I've tried different combinations of pin ports and nothing.

Yeah I tried testing the tps but I don't have a fancy multimeter at my disposal. I have a nice digital one but It doesn't have the wire needles or whatever. So I couldn't get my probe up in the connector far enough while it was plugged in because it's in a tight spot.

Also forgot to mention it doesn't really shift either when I drive. From a stop it takes like 35 seconds to get up to like 15-20. Very slow and I never feel or see it shift it runs at like 2-3k rpm ad you can tell It just needs to shift.
I know it shifts great because the few times the light was off I drove around almost all day and it shifted so smooth you almost couldn't tell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I was trying to avoid pulling the plugs because they look very hard to get too especially the back three look to be a massive pain in the a$$.
Especially since it seems computer/sensor electrical related.
Also because I know how well it runs when the light was off the few times when I first got it. I'm telling you it drove better than some new cars. Smooth power seemless shifting comfortable suspension it was amazing like a new car. So I know everything mechanical works great because when the computer and codes are all good working it runs AMAZING. But when the computer throws the CEL it runs bad and BLOWS through gas.
 

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well, you have had many suggestions. here is a few more. Check all under hood vacuum lines for cracks and
deterioration. Dont care how many miles are on it. Rubber does rot some times. replace anything that even remotely
looks bad. take off all underhood ground straps. inspect, clean, and retourue as needed. This includes the big cable from the battery to the block. and the ground strap from the firewall to the engine. I had a badly corroaded ground strap one time that caused strange issues. you need to get a fuel pressure test gauge kit and see what the fuel pressure is during problem times. If its too low, ti wont run very good if at all. Put a new fuel filter on it in case its full of crud from sitting. Make sure the PVC line is intact and the valve is firmly into the engine. those years might have had the problematic ignition module that bolted on the base of the distributer. takes a thinwall 8mm as i recall if you need to remove it if you have one. Its possible you also have as partially clogged cat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
well, you have had many suggestions. here is a few more. Check all under hood vacuum lines for cracks and
deterioration. Dont care how many miles are on it. Rubber does rot some times. replace anything that even remotely
looks bad. take off all underhood ground straps. inspect, clean, and retourue as needed. This includes the big cable from the battery to the block. and the ground strap from the firewall to the engine. I had a badly corroaded ground strap one time that caused strange issues. you need to get a fuel pressure test gauge kit and see what the fuel pressure is during problem times. If its too low, ti wont run very good if at all. Put a new fuel filter on it in case its full of crud from sitting. Make sure the PVC line is intact and the valve is firmly into the engine. those years might have had the problematic ignition module that bolted on the base of the distributer. takes a thinwall 8mm as i recall if you need to remove it if you have one. Its possible you also have as partially clogged cat.
Hey @soundu I have checked for vacuum lines cracked or whatever but I don’t see any issues or hear any for that matter. Interesting you mention the car because I came across somewhere listed the symptoms of a bad cat and I was like wait that kinda adds up with what’s going on.! I’m gonna play around with that see if I can beat on it etc. worse case I’ll chop the bitch off. It does sound like a bad cat because it does blow a little smoke when CEL is on and sluggish as heck smells like moth balls or some **** idk hahaha. Win win then I get money for scrapping it and wagon hopefully runs better lol.
I agree I do need to replace fuel filter and check pressure in the fuel system. Because like I said he put a compression fitting on that nylon fuel line Which doesn’t leak or anything was just wondering if that caused restriction.
Also it’s weird because I know everything mechanical is great because the few days I drove it around with no CEL it drove as good as a brand new vehicle.! So quiet shifts you couldn’t even feel etc. Thanks everyone.!!!
 
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