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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys.

well the g/f finally blew the head gasket on her taurus..( hopefully just the gasket ) I've been a backyard mechanic for 10 years.. but I've never worked on a ford ( but we'll just keep that to ourselves ) Now I know the basics on removal..but I'm stumped at these Ford Fuel line connections @ the fuel rail.. How the F*** do i get these off..lol
so far I'm as far as having the valve covers off..I've taken pics with the digital camera ( pictures never lie "much" ) I've pulled the cooling fan out for more clearance.

Do i need to remove the alternator, power steering water pump to get the heads off.. or is it just the one mounting bracket bolt to the front head.? ( obvioulsly I don't own the chilton manual )

and is once I do have the fuel line unhooked, do I have to remove each injector as well to remove the fuel rail..? I'm hoping the manifold can lift right off with the rail..

so far.. thats all my questions... till I get past this part of the dis-assembly..

thanks for the help and insight..

Flea
 

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Man... you gotta get a manual..!!! :banana:
I think that intake is a little like the 3.0 I've got. After pulling the upper intake, you should be able to unbolt the fuel rails and just pull out all six injectors with the rails as one peice. If you've got the hood off it's easy to just flip the rails back and out of the way without disconnecting any of the fuel line stuff.

As for pulling all the stuff on the front of the engine, I'd do that any way and replace the timing chain and water pump, along with all the belts and hoses under the hood unless something has already just been replaced.

- Get a real Ford manual. You'll need it for (correct) torque specs and procedures. Those parts store manuals....well, lets just say... got me in trouble more than once.
- Have a good machine shop check those heads for cracks and shave 'em. My 3.0 heads costed $30 ea. (one of mine was cracked but I got a nice replacement from a local pick-n-pull for $20)
- Got a good toruqe wrench? (not a cheap one)
- Got a handy little pump action oil can? (oil those holes (pistons), cam, push rods, valve stems (inside the intake and exhaust ports and through the valve springs), and the rockers) Yes, it'll smoke for a while when you start it up.
- The upper head (rebuild) set will (should) have all the gaskets, new head bolts and even new valve seals. (ask your parts guy) NEVER reuse head bolts!
- Fresh oil and antifreeze too.

Did I mention... you need to get a good manual? :banana:

Good luck! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #4
hmmm that rear head is a B*tch to get at..wonder why I never liked front wheel drive 6 cyl. to work on..lol

Oh well most of it is apart.. just that rear head to break my knuckles on..lol
 
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