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My 94 is slowly losing coolant. Have checked all hoses. Saturday I used GUNK and cleaned my engine. AFter, I noticed a small leak from behind the water pump(which I replaced about 2 months ago). It looks like the leak is coming from the timing chain cover where the coolant from the engine block goes through the water pump. First, anyone else had this problem. The gasket for the timing chain cover is not expensive and I will replace.
Any tricks in getting the TC Cover off/ Do you have to remove the water pump or can that stay in place? It looks like from the Haynes manual that the same bolts that hold the water pump in place, are many of the same bolts that hold the TC in place?
Thanks in advance,
Patrick
 

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There's a few bolts that just hold the water pump and longer ones that go all the way through the timing cover. You may have damaged the timing cover seal when you were changing the water pump. But, I've got bad waterpumps from the store before too, so triple check it (the leak) to be sure.
 

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The following is a dup of my e-mail reply...
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Hi,

I've done all that stuff before and I've done it both ways in different cars over the years, first time as a teenager in the '70s on my 'old man's' car. hehehehe.

Anytime you pull the timing chain on these american built V-6s & V-8s, You'll damage the front section of the oilpan gasket. But that section, by itself, can be replaced when reinstalling the timing cover. This was a pretty simple thing on the older cars that used paper and/or cork gaskets, BUT --- It's really a different story with the newer rubber (oilpan) gaskets. It will be tough to get it just right... Therefore....

I'd highly recommend pulling the oilpan at the same time as you pull the timing cover, replace both gaskets (timing cover on first). The rubber oilpan gaskets on these V-6s are good but may get a little out of shape for some unknown reason. Any reason to replace it is a good one. Be sure to get a rubber replacement for the oilpan; the timing chain cover/water pump gaskets are paper.

You'll need to pull the starter and the front section of the exhaust (Y-pipe) as well as the dust shield (thin piece of sheet metel that covers the bottom of the fly-wheel). The dust shield is held on by the two starter bolts and one small bolt on the other side of the oilpan from the starter. No need to lift the motor or mess with the motor mounts either! NICE!!! With the dust shield off, you can align the oilpan easier when you put it back on. Get a good light under there and look around awhile. The new oilpan gasket should come with four (4) guide pins too; use'em [in the pan bolt holes about three (3) holes from the end at each corner] along with plenty of Blue RTV to ensure a good seal.

So, pulling the timing cover??? I'd recommend (if it were me) replacing the water pump, timing chain & both gears and every belt and hose under the hood at the same time; one big nice job that, in no way, (if done carefully and correctly) will have to be re-done anytime soon. That's just the way I (try to) do stuff...

Good luck and I hope this helps,
Any more questions, just holler!

Roland

P.S. Safety First. Always use jackstands !!!
 
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