Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, sorry but I'm unsure exactly what I need... what is this?
(my sub frame is out and both of these look torn up)
Thanks for any enlightenment.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sure, sounds good to me.:D

Now that I've found out I can post a picture, I'll add another.

Just returned from cleaning the subframe, dropping the tranny and pulling the clutch & pressure plate.



I'll need both sides... here's another:




And now another question... how do I loosen the flywheel bolts? The whole flywheel spins when attempting and my impact gun won't budge them.

Thanks for helping me get it back together and on the road!
 

·
Cake monster
Joined
·
1,584 Posts
Sure, sounds good to me.:D

Now that I've found out I can post a picture, I'll add another.

Just returned from cleaning the subframe, dropping the tranny and pulling the clutch & pressure plate.



I'll need both sides... here's another:




And now another question... how do I loosen the flywheel bolts? The whole flywheel spins when attempting and my impact gun won't budge them.

Thanks for helping me get it back together and on the road!

That's a pretty nice looking subframe for an 89, my 99 looks like it's 500 years old compared to that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It looks way better now that I've degreased & power washed it! There is a couple "dents" where someone jacked the car up sometime.

It only has 71,000 miles on it. I did both the upper & lower 60k service last summer. Now want to replace the clutch & suspension bushings.

Will install a y pipe this time. The cat back and better struts / springs will come later.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,593 Posts
Since you have it out you should put a '96+ sub-frame in it, better handling, IMO overall better design, with a REAL lower control arm. As for thew flex plate, get a long breaker bar and a socket to fit the crank bolt, so the engine does not turn then use a socket wrench.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
701 Posts
You can bolt a piece of chain between a pressure plate bolt and a bell housing bolt to keep things from rotating. This trick also works for tightening down the flywheel bolts as well. This is a pretty old school way of doing it but it works.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ahhh, thanks for the above two answers. I didn't want to torque anything too hard until I had an idea how to counter the rotation. I'll just wedge the crank bolt to hold.

The car is pretty much stock... and it handles great. There is the old "clunk" every now & then so am trying to find the problem. Not sure I want to change the sub-frame. (yet)

Hope to keep it going for many more years so will slowly attempt to upgrade.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Put a socket on the crank bolt and use that to hold the crank in place.

Endlink: Ingalls Front Endlink Set

We do have y-pipes which we are doing another run right now.
That's what I did.... very little room to squeeze in a socket & then C clamped in a ratchet - worked like a charm - thanks.

My Y pipe is on the way... thanks SHOSource! Great communication on the order and fast shipping. The gasket & seal along with the shifter bushings came in yesterday.

The wife laughed when she saw my new SHO mechanics t-shirt this morning :lol2: Very true in my case!



I'll wait a bit before ordering the end links in case I need some other stuff.

Here is a pic of the rear main seal leakage:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
O.K. - finally had time to put it back together again - yippee!!
Shifts beautifully w/ a stock valero clutch and sho nut / shosource ceramic throw-out brearing. Reinforced the motormounts, installed the sway bar end links, welded the bushing cups on the subframe, replaced the leaking rear main seal, pu in new oil & tranny fluid.
Sweet - thanks for the help y'all!
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top