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Bryan King is going to do a third group buy on these, and I can't stress enough the quality and workmanship that goes into these.

Here's a copy and paste of the ad Bryan sent me:

Group Buy #3 For Cup Style Aluminum Subframe Bushings!

Last two group buys were successful, all orders for the second group buy were mailed out today and I allready have more people interested in another group buy. Machine shop was allready called and told to order the stock needed so that they will have it on hand. As soon as 11 people are paid, I will give the go ahead to have them made. As soon as they are done, they will ship right out to the people that have paid.

This offer has been extended to SHOforum, so I expect 11 spots to go fast. Email or PM me with your zip code to get a shipping quote. Perfered method of payment is [email protected] [email protected]

Cost for one set of bushings is $80.00, and for the people that don't allready know, yes this is enough to do your entire subframe front and rear. The cost difference is slightly higher from the other group buys due to the cost of aluminum going up. The bushings are clearly marked with a F for front and R for rear. The cup portion goes between your subframe and unibody, while the male portion goes through the hole in the subframe. You will need a small dremel/sandpaper to clean out the hole before putting the bushings in. They are a tight fit and designed to be that way. You can use a small hammer/rubber mallett ect. to help them up through the hole. Any questions please email or PM me.

Please email or PM Bryan directly on these, or if I can help with any questions on the technical aspect of these, feel free to PM me also.

Thanks Bryan!
 

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Bob I am interested in the Aluminum Subframe Bushings. I will try to contact him around this week, probably tomorrowthough. Do you know how much does the shipping cost to 33196? Thanks in advance

Frank.
 

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Anybody have pics of these? How difficult are they to install?
 

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Ok, Todays update so far:

Rudolfo Heinemann Jr
2 others have sent money orders in the mail apparently.
 

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Originally posted by metalliman@Aug 4 2004, 04:01 AM
Anybody have pics of these? How difficult are they to install?
Here are some instructions i got from Dan (SixFoFalcon) not too long ago that might help you to gauge ease of install.

It's really quite simple. I'm bored at work, so here you go:

1) Raise the front end. I used the rear subframe bushings as a jacking point, and the notches in the rocker panels for the jackstands.

2) Place the jack on the subframe just in front of the rear bushing. Loosen both bushing bolts at least 1/4" so the bolts don't bend when you lower the front of the subframe.

3) Remove the front splash shield and air dam by removing the 9(?) Phillips screws and the (3) 8mm bolts.

4) Put the jack right in the middle of the front of the subframe and jack it up to hold the subframe in place as you remove the front bolts. Once the bolts are removed, SLOWLY lower the subframe, making sure it doesn't pitch to one side or the other. I lowered the front about 5 or 6".

5) The front bushings are held in place by 4 small nuts on each bushing. You can feel the notches in the outside edges of the bushing with your hand, but it's hard to see them (they are on top). I used a 1/4" drive ratchet and a small socket (dammit I forget the size) to remove the 4 nuts on each bushing. It took some pressure to force the socket into the rubber hole where the nuts reside. The bushing should come out pretty easily once the nuts are off.

6) Clean up the large hole in the subframe and place the "cup" portion of the new bushing on top. I used a generous application of anti-seize to coat the whole bushing so it wouldn't corrode. Do this to both sides, and jack the subframe up so the bushings are almost touching the undercarriage. Try to insert the bottom portion of the bushing... it may be tricky, since the bushing is a tight fit. Once you get it partially in, you can insert the bolt and do the same on the other side. Tighten the bolts, but then back them off 1/4" on both sides so you can drop the rear part of the subframe.

7) Jack one side of the rear subframe up snugly against the car. Remove the bolt on that side. Then go to the other side, and remove that bolt. The subframe should be stiff enough that you don't need to jack both sides when removing the bolts. Slowly lower the jack until you have enough clearance to remove the bushings. You will find that the back is much easier than the front... simply swap the bushings and tighten to 75ft-lbs.

DON'T forget to tighten the front bolts to 75ft-lbs. If you are lucky, you won't need to realign the car. I was lucky the first time, but now after the second time, the wheel is clocked to the right about 35 degrees. I guess I'm going to get the struts and steering knuckles replaced before I get another alignment.
Hope that helps. ;)
 

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Can anyone tell me how the ride quality changes with respect to vibration and ride harshness. I drive the sedan daily but my wife likes to take it out on the weekends and doesn't understand changing somthing that is going to make the drive "worse".


-Jeff
 

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jeff, i think you're probably going to hear the argument both ways. some will say you don't notice a difference in quality, others will say you'll feel every vibration on the road. i've ridden in a stang gt with aluminum sfb's before and after they were installed, and i barely noticed a difference.
 

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Originally posted by 3-fords1000@Aug 5 2004, 11:25 AM
Can anyone tell me how the ride quality changes with respect to vibration and ride harshness. I drive the sedan daily but my wife likes to take it out on the weekends and doesn't understand changing somthing that is going to make the drive "worse".


-Jeff
Here's what Dan (SixFoFalcon) had told me when i asked him about what the differences were after he had installed his.

At first, I felt like I was riding around in a dumpster. Every tiny pebble on the road rattled my teeth. I had my tire pressure way up around 40lbs though. Once I set the pressures to 35lbs all around, it was much more bearable, but still a little rough. Keep in mind, the roads around here are not great. I have to drive on cobblestones occasionally, and I was tired of feeling like I was in a Honda.

The steering response was fabulous with the ASFBs. I really felt like I was driving a 2000-lb sports car, not a 3500-lb family sedan.
Man i hope Dan doesn't mind me speaking for him by way of quote :D
 

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Originally posted by Adam B.@Aug 5 2004, 08:37 PM
Got mine in today, they look great. I can't wait to install them Thanks Bryan. :thumb:
Ditto, yesterday that is (not today). And they look great thanks Bryan. Now just waiting on the sway bars i bought from tEh BoB to arrive and will knock all this out at once. :D
 

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Bryan, you still need more people for the 3rd Group Aluminum Subframe Bushing. If you need more people then I will pay you tomorrow because and bery exicted to get them for my car as soon as possible, thanks in advance.

Frank
 

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Originally posted by sable97@Aug 7 2004, 01:03 AM
Bryan, you still need more people for the 3rd Group Aluminum Subframe Bushing. If you need more people then I will pay you tomorrow because and bery exicted to get them for my car as soon as possible, thanks in advance.

Frank
Frank,

I am glad you are BERY excited. So far only one person has paid, there are apparently approx 3 money orders in the mail so there are spots left.....
 

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Originally posted by D Man@Aug 10 2004, 05:05 PM
Are you any closer to your quote of 11 sets being sold Bryan??

Have you received my payment??

Dylan
Sorry I haven't given much of an update the past couple of days. Dylan I believe I did recieve your payment in the mail. I also did recieve one other (forget who at the moment).

So far a total of 3 people have paid, that means 8 more to go........

This WILL be the last group buy as far as I am concerned.......
 

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How can these benefit me, i know nothing about them or what they do besides what i can make out from names and pictures.
 
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