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Hello everyone,

I am new here and I am having Transmission trouble I think, so let me tell you my issue, and then I will explain all I have done.

My 1999 For Taurus 3.0 standard motor no frills, (NO DOHV) 66,000 miles(very low) and the new tranny has about 5,000 on it now.

I recently had a local mechanic change the tranny out. The tranny was purchased from a Long standing eBay tranny seller. The part matched mine precisely, and I was told this was from a buyout of a ford reman factory and this is the last one they had, and that it was in fact a Ford Reman done by ford. The torque converter came with it, and was also new. So I got lucky I think.... I went to jasper transmission page on the net and looked up a recommended tranny installer in my area and had the guy closest to me replace my transmission. the installer actually stated" you got a good one” Said it shifted like butter! Tranny fluid came from ford, and sits at 1/4 from the top line.

I have the floor shifter. the tranny is a AX4N Metric and (ford) stamped on the pan.


Now when you hit 3rd gear the RPM's hit the standard number from second and start to rise, then all of the sudden the RPM's drop 3-400 and then commence to rise again. then it shifts into overdrive.

When this happens you can hear a slight sound of the drop in rpms in the motor. Or at least I think I can.

After the drop the car continues and no issues apparent. Matter of a fact if you were not looking at the RPM gauge you would not even notice this is happening at all. It seems to drop the 3-400 at a high rate of accelleration, if its a soft accel (light on the gas pedal) the drop is less, (barely noticable.) This happens with or without the air conditioning on.

Now just to give a little background here, I am a boat mechanic by trade, and now a web programmer due to back problems... I have and do any and all work on this vehicle that I can.

I have recently replaced:
IAC(Idle air control)
Air Filer
Oil Change and filter
Fuel filter (done by a uncle that is a mechanic)
Cleaned the butterfly in the intake (I was there)
Replaced the camshaft syncronizer and sensor "Ford part" (myself) This might be my issue.
Lucas (injector cleaner) gone now

I only run Premium shell 93 octane gas!


So does anyone have any idea why thin might be happening? Is it because the Crankshaft sync and sensor was installed improperly?
I didn't bring it to TDC I jsut replaced it back like it was. i bought the part from ford as well.
 

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The drop in rpm is the torque converter locking up. Then just before the shift it unlocks then shifts. You should see this too when at a steady spreed cruising in 4th with the AC on.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
QUOTE (SHOZ123 @ May 16 2009, 10:48 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=725562
The drop in rpm is the torque converter locking up. Then just before the shift it unlocks then shifts. You should see this too when at a steady spreed cruising in 4th with the AC on.[/b]

Ok great!

So even with the 3rd gear drop and not doing it in any other gear, I should not worry? I know this might be stupid to ask, but I never noticed it prior to the new tranny and torque converter... also the old tranny would miss first gear sometimes at “start off the line”, and just rev the RPM... This is why it was replaced.

Anyhow, and no worries of the cam sync being the culprit either... I am just worried about it because I did the job.

One last thing, even in 4th, the RPM does not drop with the ac on. If it does it is so slight I can’t see the drop.

My uncle the mechanic (Chevy Mechanic) drove the car... his initial sentence just as you said, " it the converter locking up"

Then after driving it and feeling the RPM drop and location of said drop in the 3rd gear, he stated, nope, it shouldn’t be doing that, at that time”.... because it appeared to him the converter was already locked.

So with that addition, what now?
 

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The converter should lock and stay lock in 3rd until the shift. Then it will unlock and shift. If it is cycling in 3rd something is wrong. You should see the TC locking and unlocking in 4th. It is hard to see and only happens under very light load with the AC on, or the CC in and AC mode.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
QUOTE (SHOZ123 @ May 16 2009, 11:06 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=725566
The converter should lock and stay lock in 3rd until the shift. Then it will unlock and shift. If it is cycling in 3rd something is wrong. You should see the TC locking and unlocking in 4th. It is hard to see and only happens under very light load with the AC on, or the CC in and AC mode.[/b]

"Then it will unlock and shift. If it is cycling in 3rd something is wrong" Yes of course.

So here is a detailed account of what occurs. Car warm or cold, AC OFF. I just drove it to refresh my memory to a precise account

THE INITIAL STUFF
Off the line, first gear, shifts into second, hits appropriate lower RPM, acceleration through 2nd is normal with RPM rising without a drop, Shifts appropriately into third, and RPM hits appropriate lower level from second to third.
After in Third gear the RPM starts to rise briefly “soft foot 100-200RPM”, “Heavy foot 2-400RPM” and then drops 1-200RPM. From that point on third gear, the RPM starts to rise again through third, rising the appropriate RPM level correlating to the amount of pedal you use. Third gear rises the appropriate RPM range for third and when the top of third is reached... then of course it shifts and overdrive is then engaged.

This whole thing is so confusing because it is all relevant to how much pedal your giving the car. I want to be sure I give you enough information about the issue and you can tell me whether or not I need to have it serviced or not. I also understand it may be impossible for you to give me a definitive answer...

The only difference is with a heavy foot and a light foot. Is that once in third, how many RPM’s it takes for the drop to occur. A light foot, it happens almost immediately once in third, heavy foot, it waits a mere second longer prior to the RPM drop.
Perhaps it drops the same 2-300 as with the light pedal pressure did... then it continues through third gear until shift into overdrive.

Any assistance you can clarify is much appreciated. I do not want to waste your time, so please; if you have already answered my question then I apologize.

Perhaps it is taking a moment to lock in third prior to accelerating through third? Due to over or under pressure maybe?
 

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When the TC is unlocked the rpms to foot pedal ratio is not linear. It will rise more with a larger pedal increase (power output). This si due to the slippage of the TC when no locked. When the TC is locked the rpms will rise in direct proportion to the throttle input (power output) because there is no slippage. No slippage just like a manual transmission.

You are probably noticing it now more than before because you have a new and better TC than what comes in the car stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
QUOTE (SHOZ123 @ May 16 2009, 12:04 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=725575
When the TC is unlocked the rpms to foot pedal ratio is not linear. It will rise more with a larger pedal increase (power output). This si due to the slippage of the TC when no locked. When the TC is locked the rpms will rise in direct proportion to the throttle input (power output) because there is no slippage. No slippage just like a manual transmission.

You are probably noticing it now more than before because you have a new and better TC than what comes in the car stock.[/b]

Well thank you! The car drives so well now, and I get wonderful MPG. I service everything immediately after seeing a problem, so almost every part is either NEW or in good condition. All parts come from Ford except trivial parts, and I always use Penzoil Oil 5w 30.

I want to agree that the drop I see is just the TC locking, because it continues up from there in direct relation to the throttle.

No slippage anywhere else.

One last thing then, Should my Transmission fluid level be at the bottom stick line, the top stick line, or as I know about the oil... anywhere in-between?

I ask due to the fact that when I got it back from my worthy mechanic, it was perfectly at the bottom line! I did the test appropriately and the steps were as follows.

Car running, warm motor and tranny... parked, shifted through all gears, then back to park, and then looked at the level...

Right now the level resides at 1/4 from the top...because I added a bit. Probably a half quart.
 

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A dipstick is like a tape measure, it has a smart end and a dumb end. What does the dipstick say at the smart end?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I would guess the smart end is the lower mark, and it says, "Perfect."...
I would in turn guess the top mark is the dumb end and it says, " too much dummy!"

Would that be a correct assumption? and I should remove my half quart?

:eek:
 

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shoz123 is having you on -- you're the smart end.

You can download your owner's manual from a link here: http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=12758

(It has the full procedure and how to read the 'stick.)

Meanwhile, you should be just fine if the fluid is between the top and the bottom marks with engine warm and cycled as you indicated in post #7.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
QUOTE (SHOZ123 @ May 16 2009, 12:54 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=725591
You need to read the fine print on the dipstick.[/b]

Roger that! Dipstick, perhaps I should change my name to "Dipstick" or "Nimrod"

:lol2:

I want you both to know I do appreciate your help! You guys are a pleasure to talk too and gave pertinent advice that is in step with my problem. You didn't try to push me off onto something else like other forums do.

So I hope to become a member in good standing, and offer advice where I can! I have had this car since it was 19,511miles old.
I bought it from a person I used to take care of that died unfortunately. i bought it back in 2004 for $5,000. I have since put over $6,000 into it and have a good vehicle now that I watch closely due to my mechanicing background. I hear every little squeak she makes, and look, find, and repair as necessary...

The only thing I have left to do is to replace one front end piece that will tighten up my steering. I had a bad tie rod end this winter that was replace... I bought a new set of tires "Michelin Harmony" for $550 bucks, I got price matched with Wal-Mart from a local retailer, and after the tires were on I took it to Ford, which told me they could not align it without the end being replaced.. so I did, and got my alignment...

So I have been through it with this car... but she purrs like a kitten these days, and is approaching old age being 10 years old, even with 67,000 miles on her. But I plan to keep the car until she falls apart to the point she won't drive. In the future instead of getting a new car, I plan to rebuild the engine and put a body kit on and new paint, but as you can see it will be a while due to the fact that the current paint is still wonderful!

So thanks again guys. I am going to post one more post today referring to the camshaft syncro and installation. I am afraid my installation was improper... But I am sure you guys will help me toward the right answer!

How would I go about gettig that 1/2-2/3 quart Out of the tranny? Without buying a syphon pump?

Jason, A.K.A. Bionic
Http://ShadedPixel.com
 

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Just leave the extra in there. Overfilling it a little bit won't hurt, there's nothing to froth up the oil like in an engine. If there is too much it will puke out and correct itself.
 

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Most likely not, mine is almost to the D on "Don't" stamped on the dipstick, and it shifts like any other 100k transmission.

The way you describe the car shifting/RPM drops are exactly how they should be doing. I'll see if I can take a video tomorrow of my 'Tec rowing through the gears. I swear mine doesn't unlock the T/C going from 3 to 4 though.
 
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