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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2006 Ford Taurus with a 3.0l
Has a little over 100k miles on it and I replaced the the coil pack when it had 60k miles on it due to hisitation going up hills and that seemed to fix that problem. Started running rough about a year ago so I replaced the spark plugs and wires and it purred like a kitten for about 5 months then it was having some misfire issues. Found out that when I replaced the plug wires they were touching the egr line near the firewall side cylinders 1 and 2. They had melted and I'm sure we're arcing on there so I replaced the wires again and this time to make sure they were not touching. Seemed ok for about a month but then steadily seemed to get worse. And has a hard start problem now. It will crank over quite a bit before starting and sometimes hesitates after starting and then smooths out and will drive fine. Checking codes today and it shows p0316, p0306, p0303 and p0301. Cylinders 1, 3, and 6 I use Fixd to check codes and the advance diagnostics freeze frame are exactly the same for all cylinders.
218868

218869

218870

I have tried looking for vacuume leaks and haven't really had any luck. What's some suggestions? I thought maybe I was a crankshaft sensor but I thought that would throw a code. Maybe not. I replaced my fuel filter 2 months ago. I live in interior Alaska so things are subject to quite extreme temps in winter but I try and take care of my stuff. Could my coil pack be bad? It's not very old but could be faulty. I posted the pictures of the freeze frame because I have no idea if those look normal or if any of those numbers look off and could lead to problems I'm experiencing. Once the car is running it has a bit of a rough idle but driving is fine with no hesitations. Any help and suggestions would be appreciated I just don't want to start replacing random parts in hopes that fixes it. Best to maybe narrow it down.
 

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The MAF reading seems a bit high too me. I was told as a rule of thumb, 1 g/s per liter of engine at idle while warm. That should put you around 3 grams. You are showing 4.4 g/s.
 

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There is a possibility that the shorting of the plug wires to ground damaged the coil. Can you substitute the old coil back in or did you toss it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
There is a possibility that the shorting of the plug wires to ground damaged the coil. Can you substitute the old coil back in or did you toss it.
I tossed it, but I never did consider that was a possibility. I was leaning towards just buying a new coil pack anyway to try and fix this problem, now I'm a little more convinced. Because the problem initially was just needing a tune up. And after plugs and wires things ran super smooth. But after shorting those other wires it's only gotten worse so maybe I'll give that a go.
 

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Get either a Motorcraft or BWD (Borg Warner) coil pack, not a cheapo one from Auto Zone, etc. BWD is Fords OEM supplier of coil packs and other ignition components. BWD will be somewhat cheaper than the equivalent Motorcraft part.
 
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Cylinders 1, 3 and 6 misfiring means all 3 coils of the coilpack fail at once. That is odd. Perhaps you can check the voltage on the common pin of the coil pack (both statically with the ignition to ON and while the engine is running) or try to temporarily take off the radio noise suppression capacitor (perhaps it creates a short to the ground).
Edit: it also doesn't hurt to check the resistance of each coil: primary: 0.5 ohm ; secondary: 13.6 kohm. But my guess would be they are OK.
 

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Cylinders 1, 3 and 6 misfiring means all 3 coils of the coilpack fail at once. That is odd. Perhaps you can check the voltage on the common pin of the coil pack (both statically with the ignition to ON and while the engine is running) or try to temporarily take off the radio noise suppression capacitor (perhaps it creates a short to the ground).
Edit: it also doesn't hurt to check the resistance of each coil: primary: 0.5 ohm ; secondary: 13.6 kohm. But my guess would be they are OK.
Noise suppressor is possible cause.
 
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