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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I`m the desperate owner of a -93 3.8l that has been stuck for some weeks now, just won`t start up. A friend dropped by today and checked out the enegine-data; from this he told me that a dead knock-sensor most likely causes the problem.
Now I`m running wild wondering where it`s located and if I`ll be able to just disconnect it just to make the enegine run again. Heeeelp!! :(
 

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Cake monster
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I`m the desperate owner of a -93 3.8l that has been stuck for some weeks now, just won`t start up. A friend dropped by today and checked out the enegine-data; from this he told me that a dead knock-sensor most likely causes the problem.
Now I`m running wild wondering where it`s located and if I`ll be able to just disconnect it just to make the enegine run again. Heeeelp!! :(
It would likely be threaded into the engine block somewhere. Have you determined that you have spark and fuel pressure? I would check over the basics first.

If you could provide the readings he got, we could help diagnose the issue easier for you. Codes always help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
It would likely be threaded into the engine block somewhere. Have you determined that you have spark and fuel pressure? I would check over the basics first.

If you could provide the readings he got, we could help diagnose the issue easier for you. Codes always help.

Yep, I`ve done the rutines, fuel and spark are/seems to be ok. As mentioned; I`m primarely after the knock sensors location or the wiring-route to be able to disconnect it based on the info my friend gave me.

From what he told the messages was about cam degree failure and ignition lock failure. Due to the local healer this points on a dead knock-sensor wich would make a Taurus (unlike othe cars) impossible to start since the ignition would be out of range.
 

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I see your in Norway, not certain about the 93 Euro 3.8L, but my 94 USA 3.8L doesn't have a knock sensor. In any case as has been said, that wouldn't prevent it from starting.

What event preceeded the engine not wanting to start????

It requires air, fuel, spark & compression to make them run, so if yours wont try to run at all, it's missing one or more of those required things.

Fuel pressure should be 39psi at the fuel rail schrader valve connection at KOEO.

Seeing as how your in cold country, are you certain you don't have a condensation/iceing fuel delivery problem????

Do you have B+ to the fuel injectors at KOEO & can you hear them "click" when the engine is cranked with the starter motor????

An inductive type timing light on the coil wire to the distributor cap, will quickly & safely determine if you have spark.

Will the engine try to start if you spray starting fluid into the throttle body????
 

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As WJC said, a KS problem will not cause a no start. Only waythat could happen is if the KS was shorted internally and pulled VREF down to zero, which would also pull VREF down to zero an all other sensors. CHecking for the correct 5 V VREF can easily be done at other senbsors, like the TPS.
 

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As WJC said, a KS problem will not cause a no start. Only waythat could happen is if the KS was shorted internally and pulled VREF down to zero, which would also pull VREF down to zero an all other sensors. CHecking for the correct 5 V VREF can easily be done at other senbsors, like the TPS.
Oooh, good call. Hadn't thought about that. He could just disconnect the plug to eliminate that, right?
 

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^^^^^ Yup!

Chased my tail on something similar years ago. No start and a ton of undervolt codes for nearly every sensor. Ended up being a internally shorted ECT pulling down VREF to zero. Took me a while to figure that one out!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Okay guys, you`re getting it. Now if I only could locate this sensor or at least it`s wiring :confused:

Meanwhile I`m working like a slave to get my old Fairlane driveable after some major rebuilding. Wasn`t supposed to run it until summer.

Think I`ll pull of the alternator to have a look down the timing-cover area for that knoc-sensor.
 

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No clue on KS location. I have seen them in the block, in the valley, and in the intake manifold on various Fords. Good luck. Externally, the look just like an ACT or ECT.
 
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