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The engine specs given on my 3.8 says it produces 140hp at like 3800rpm, When i get it back from the transmission shop i plan on adding a big tach onto it..seeing as how i cant find a sho cluster.. so is the redline limit at the 3800 rpm because i've heard talk of it being like 5500, but on a mustang 3.8 its closer to 6500, if my short term isn playing with me...

also how is it a 12valve?? I thought that V6's were 24?
and, if so, is my cherrybomb turbo2 muffler going to hurt it...backpressure is bad...but somewhat neccessary, or so I have been told..

and where is that air silencer if its removed does it really do much?....
and does the manual-esque shifting apply to my car going from 1to D back to 1 to hold it in 2nd then back to D for 3rd??.....Thanks...
 

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The 3.8 is a 2-valve motor. The Duratec (which in a way replaced the 3.8's in the Taurus) is a 4-valve motor.

I have a '91 3.8, police package. Redline is around 5500, maybe closer to 5250. HP on mine is somewhere around 155 (stock) or a little more with my basic mods.

The 3.8 in the Taurus is designed to be an all-torque motor, torque peaks at 2200 (can you say diesel?) and HP peaks pretty low, as well. It's not a high revving motor, though by helping it breath better you can get a little more out of the top end. The Mustang 3.8 is a much different design as far as I know.

If you get a shift kit, don't bother with trying to manual shift it, you can only make it workse if you ask me.

Removing the air silencer will certainly make it sound more powerful, and it will give you a little boost on the top end. Might want to try a K&N drop-in as well.

Lastly, a turbo muffler won't hurt your performance at all. Mine has had duals on all it's life, and high-flow (no-name) turbo mufflers for the last 3 or 4 years and it's still running strong at 175k miles :)

Hope that helps!
 

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I took the silencer out of my car a couple weeks ago during its tune-up, and gas mileage PLUMMETED. I was getting 20-22mpg before. With the silencer out, I got two tanks at 14 and 13mpg. The last tank the light came on at 141 miles. Yesterday before going to Monterey, I replaced the silencer and filled the tank. I'm at 160 miles right now with half a tank, though the last half goes quicker than the first. I expect about 220 out of this tank.
 

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First that avatar is frightening LOL...

Second, try resetting the computer now that you have more airflow: just disconnect the battery for 15 minutes or so.
 

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The silencer is easy to remove, I didn't notice much besides the deep mean growl when I removed it from my car. Gas milege remained the same on my car, around 350 miles per tank or 23 Mpg.

It dosen't help to rev that motor up, it only seems to make power worse, as it drops off pretty quickly. I find that some of my cars fastest moments where when the tranny decided to slam into 2nd at around 3200 rpm. Didn't feel too nice but the car really moved. Other times I'd let off the gas a bit to let it shift early, then floor it again.

To get a tach couden't you replace the cluster with a sable cluster? they have tachs.

BTW, does anyone know what the speed limiter on a 93 sable is set for? I hit mine one day and i wasn't even trying to.
 

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Not sure what the limit is, but I was clocked by CHP doing 92mph in a 65. :) I was written for 70+, as the cop saw the car seats in the back (empty, of course).
Thanks for the avatar comment, it fits me for some reason, though I look NOTHING like Rowan Atkinson.
Maybe I'll try the computer reset, maybe not. Didn't notice much of an improvement, performance-wise.
 

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I think speed limiter is set at 105-110.

TaurusRacer, if you're in need of a tach for your cluster (I'm assuming you don't have one, hence why you want to put a tach on), I have my LX 93 cluster with the right tach that I can sell you for cheap. I put the SHO cluster in my 3.8- it's nice to see a tach that reads up to 8k (the LX one went up to 6k IIRC), but for our engines its pretty pointless as it will likely explode at anything past 6k :D .

I would highly suggest the KN filter element when you take out the silencer. Also, if you look at the airbox, there's a second cone attached to it that goes to the firewall. You can take that off and fabricate a way to route some 2.5"-3" ducting from the firewall to the airbox. That will give you a real free breathing system while still retaining the stock look, getting cool air into the intake (unlike the cones in the engine bay), and not suck up any water or other hazard because it was mounted too low. (unlike some other home-made cold-air intakes that have been made)
 
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