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NICE VIDEO! I know this is an older thread so, i'm hoping you guys are still here to answer questions on this subject. my manual says to pull the oil pan and i fear I have the tan gasket you warned about. so here's my question... If I'm not pulling the heads like you did but, pulling the oil pan do i need to remove the exhaust to get the oil pan out of there?
 

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NICE VIDEO! I know this is an older thread so, i'm hoping you guys are still here to answer questions on this subject. my manual says to pull the oil pan and i fear I have the tan gasket you warned about. so here's my question... If I'm not pulling the heads like you did but, pulling the oil pan do i need to remove the exhaust to get the oil pan out of there?
Yes unless you remove the oil pump as someone posted. I can’t find it right now.
 

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Yes unless you remove the oil pump as someone posted. I can’t find it right now.
Well, i did the job, I did not pull the oil pan. I had the tan gasket on there, a little chunk ripped off and stuck to the timing cover that i was able to salvage but, after cleaning it and the metal part of the oil pan gasket with brake clean solvent via Q-tip i used some permatex gasket maker to glue it back in place and let that set up over night. the next day i cleaned up all the gasket stuck on the other surfaces used that gasket maker around the coolant ports on the block and glued the water pump gasket onto the water pump with it and let that setup over night. i assembled the next day after work, changing front seal etc. I got it all together and put in new oil/filter and coolant, fired it up and no more leaks of any kind (except valve covers a little). Truthfully, if i hadn't have done a lot of work on it last summer i'd have poisoned it with bars leak and traded it off. but, i had ...replaced all 4 struts and spring assemblies, all 4 wheel total brake job, stabilizer bar struts, inner and outer tie rods, got it aligned and put new tires on it. now it's a great running, riding car again with 131,450 miles that always ran Mobil 1 full synthetic oil. all i need to do now is valve cover gaskets.
 

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Thanks so much for that video, it is awesome!

I recently purchased an '02 Taurus wagon on the cheap..... that means that I don't want to spend much money on it, It looked dry underneath when I checked it out, but got it home (60 mi drive) and the next day saw a green puddle around the right front wheel. I guessed it was the water pump, ordered a new one, put it in, started to re-fill it and HEARD a drip, drip drip....

Pulled the water pump out again knowing that I rushed the gasket surface clean up and found old gasket fragments. Cleaned it up right and re-installed.... seemed ok/

Problem not fixed. So now I suspect the timing cover gasket. Pulling the water pump looks to be at least 2/3 of the work to get the timing cover out, so not scared of the job in the video and considering that.

But asking here at the forum, how can I be sure it is the timing cover?? I drips from the subframe, and is coming from the rearward end of the water pump area above it seems. Seems to lose coolant when I drive it, puddle a bit when I park it after driving, but does not continue to leak after a while if I don't drive it. Seems to me that it could be just a leak at a high point of the cooling system that drains to lower level after leaking and then stops.... until driven again. A couple trips and the coolant res is empty.

This is a "spare" car for us, and I can have it off the road for 2-3 days, so doing this repair doesn't scare me. So again, how can I confirm that it is the timing chain cover leaking? Seems hard to be able to see that back end corner of it. Could it be something else? Some other checks???

This car is otherwise not too beat up, I'd like to keep driving it for a few years.....

Thanks in advance..
 

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It is hard to see the leak on the engine. I used an inspection mirror to see the backside of the timing cover. All three of my Taurus leaked in the same place, the pump inlet to read head. Be careful of the gasket on the oil pan as you take off the TC so it doesn't get damaged. I did the repair without removing the oil pan because that easily doubles the repair time. Also the water pump is the easy part of the repair. I did it four times.
 

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Thanks so much for that video, it is awesome!

I recently purchased an '02 Taurus wagon on the cheap..... that means that I don't want to spend much money on it, It looked dry underneath when I checked it out, but got it home (60 mi drive) and the next day saw a green puddle around the right front wheel. I guessed it was the water pump, ordered a new one, put it in, started to re-fill it and HEARD a drip, drip drip....

Pulled the water pump out again knowing that I rushed the gasket surface clean up and found old gasket fragments. Cleaned it up right and re-installed.... seemed ok/

Problem not fixed. So now I suspect the timing cover gasket. Pulling the water pump looks to be at least 2/3 of the work to get the timing cover out, so not scared of the job in the video and considering that.

But asking here at the forum, how can I be sure it is the timing cover?? I drips from the subframe, and is coming from the rearward end of the water pump area above it seems. Seems to lose coolant when I drive it, puddle a bit when I park it after driving, but does not continue to leak after a while if I don't drive it. Seems to me that it could be just a leak at a high point of the cooling system that drains to lower level after leaking and then stops.... until driven again. A couple trips and the coolant res is empty.

This is a "spare" car for us, and I can have it off the road for 2-3 days, so doing this repair doesn't scare me. So again, how can I confirm that it is the timing chain cover leaking? Seems hard to be able to see that back end corner of it. Could it be something else? Some other checks???

This car is otherwise not too beat up, I'd like to keep driving it for a few years.....

Thanks in advance..
thats where mine leaked it is the timing cover gasket. these are plagued with this problem. once fixed correctly it will be ok. ford had this problem from new and the warranty fix was to poison them with stop leak instead of fix them. once they leak they need new gasket and i added a good permatex gasket maker and had it set up over night before filling it and running the engine. so nice to check the coolant reservoir and see it on the full line every day.
 

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Now this is one of the most common leaks on a Taurus that we see. They start off slow but I have seen them go all out with a rapid loss of coolant. If yours has this issue and have been putting it off here is the definitive how to video to get it sealed back up with a few tips and tricks to make it all a little easier. Hope this helps........

This should be a stickied!
 
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