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Hello, want to say thanks.
My 96 Taurus threw the serpentine belt and when I replace it discovered the AC compressor frozen. Not a good time for a car repair, and the other option (bypass pulley or replace compressor) well beyond my comfort zone as a mech.

Looked like it would be easily bypassed, and I am glad google led me to this thread so I could learn that the problem and fix had been pretty well documented. I am glad to say the Taurus has not run so well in awhile suggesting I was attributing mech noises to the aging process.

I am still confused about the electircal issues. The AC has a leak and hasn't worked in two years. All I did was short belt the beast do I need do more to insure I have not left a problem for myself?

Thanks for the help it really saved my xmas budget.
 

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If the A/C locked up, it could be the compressor or could be the bearings in the pulley/clutch assembly.

Regardless, if you were able to bypass the pulley with the new belt you should be good to go.

There is a wire connector on the compressor right by the clutch/pulley you can disconnect and position out of the way. That way you won't energize the ac clutch coil if the system is charged with freon and you turn your climate controls to a setting that would normally turn on the ac compressor.

Other than that, no other electrical issues.

Merry xmas :)
 

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If the A/C locked up, it could be the compressor or could be the bearings in the pulley/clutch assembly.

Regardless, if you were able to bypass the pulley with the new belt you should be good to go.

There is a wire connector on the compressor right by the clutch/pulley you can disconnect and position out of the way. That way you won't energize the ac clutch coil if the system is charged with freon and you turn your climate controls to a setting that would normally turn on the ac compressor.

Other than that, no other electrical issues.

Merry xmas :)
Agree, much more likely the pulley bearing fail. Had 2 G-4 cars do that in weeks. Not yet lock but very noisy bearings. Pic of what they look like just before lockup. I paid young mechanic 1 hour to replace the clutch. A/C worked just fine. JY pulley + ~$12.
 

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I have a 2004 Sable LS with the Duratech engine. The Serpentine belt broke when the AC compressor locked up. I don't want to replace the AC again. Does anyone know the part#/source for a bypass pulley to fit a 2004? The Dorman website does not show any pulleys past 2003 for my car. Thanks, Scotty
 

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Successfull Bypass

I used the Napa NBH 25060819 belt to do a bypass on our 2006 Vulkan.

The belt cleared the AC compressor without having to do any modifications.

It sits about dead center on the tensioner gauge, so you can go slightly shorter if they don't have that exact belt in stock (but I wouldn't go any longer).

Thanks to all the previous posters who offered belt sizes that worked.
 

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Kicking in to say "THANK YOU" to all! I'm not a mechanic at all. Fix what I can where I can. Like all car problems, they take a dump when you can't afford to fix them. Got into my car and started it up this morning to go to work and white smoke started swirling under the hood. Popped the hood and the serpentine belt broke (the white smoke was the belt rubbing and ultimately breaking from the seized up A/C pully). Haven't had A/C for the last 6 months and I instantly assumed it was the A/C compressor lock up. Went through the typical anger stage. I drive 30 miles to and from work each day and this is my only transportation for now. So, I called in sick for the day. What in the world was I gonna do.....can't afford to replace the A/C. 2001 Ford Taurus SES with a U in the VIN number. Started searching this morning and found this thread. I took a survey of all the different belt sizes posted in this thread and the most common I could see was the Autozone 820K6. Took a stab and hit it on the nose the first time out. $28 plus tax. 20 minutes later, I had re-routed the belt with a diagram found here. Car runs perfectly again. The clearance issue some have described on the A/C pully isn't an issue for me in this case, but I can see where it's crazy close. Lucky I guess. So, I just wanted to take the time to thank everyone and give a final report in case there is another 2001 owner out there experiencing the same thing.

Summary:

2001 Ford Taurus SES (I have a U in my VIN number which helped me identify which motor I had. Apparently, this process won't work on certain engines such as the DOHC)

AutoZone Belt Number 820K6 by Duralast

I take no credit for the belt routing diagram, but it came from the Taurus Club. The pic of the package from the belt, I took right after I completed the job.

It was tight, but, once I took the tension out of the tensioner, I got the belt squeezed on and there's no play anywhere. Ran in the driveway for an hour just to make sure. All is well.

By the way, before I did this, and before it seized up, it was making all kinds of racket and I wasn't absolutely sure what the problem was. Now, she's super quiet and runs normal for now.

THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!!! THANK YOU!!!!!!! THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!! One small battle won!

I don't know if anyone else needs it for other years or models, but here's a list of the other belts I had written down if this one hadn't worked:

AUTOZONE - 817K6; 822K6; and 825K6 (At least for my car, the 820K6 was a PERFECT fit) Good luck, hope this helps someone else in need. :)
 

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Kicking in to say "THANK YOU" to all! I'm not a mechanic at all. Fix what I can where I can. Like all car problems, they take a dump when you can't afford to fix them. Got into my car and started it up this morning to go to work and white smoke started swirling under the hood. Popped the hood and the serpentine belt broke (the white smoke was the belt rubbing and ultimately breaking from the seized up A/C pully). Haven't had A/C for the last 6 months and I instantly assumed it was the A/C compressor lock up. Went through the typical anger stage. I drive 30 miles to and from work each day and this is my only transportation for now. So, I called in sick for the day. What in the world was I gonna do.....can't afford to replace the A/C. 2001 Ford Taurus SES with a U in the VIN number. Started searching this morning and found this thread. I took a survey of all the different belt sizes posted in this thread and the most common I could see was the Autozone 820K6. Took a stab and hit it on the nose the first time out. $28 plus tax. 20 minutes later, I had re-routed the belt with a diagram found here. Car runs perfectly again. The clearance issue some have described on the A/C pully isn't an issue for me in this case, but I can see where it's crazy close. Lucky I guess. So, I just wanted to take the time to thank everyone and give a final report in case there is another 2001 owner out there experiencing the same thing.

Summary:

2001 Ford Taurus SES (I have a U in my VIN number which helped me identify which motor I had. Apparently, this process won't work on certain engines such as the DOHC)

AutoZone Belt Number 820K6 by Duralast

I take no credit for the belt routing diagram, but it came from the Taurus Club. The pic of the package from the belt, I took right after I completed the job.

It was tight, but, once I took the tension out of the tensioner, I got the belt squeezed on and there's no play anywhere. Ran in the driveway for an hour just to make sure. All is well.

By the way, before I did this, and before it seized up, it was making all kinds of racket and I wasn't absolutely sure what the problem was. Now, she's super quiet and runs normal for now.

THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!!! THANK YOU!!!!!!! THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!! One small battle won!

I don't know if anyone else needs it for other years or models, but here's a list of the other belts I had written down if this one hadn't worked:

AUTOZONE - 817K6; 822K6; and 825K6 (At least for my car, the 820K6 was a PERFECT fit) Good luck, hope this helps someone else in need. :)
Glad these archived posts helped you out! Your Gen3 Vulcan is rather different than my 1990 Gen1; there's no idler pulley up top, and the alternator runs off of a separate belt (I guess the design thought was, to hell with overheating and power steering and A/C - at least the car could be driven off the road if the serp belt took a dump!) My bypass size is not an 820 (82.0") but a 705K5 (70½") and I went a half-inch shy because my tensioner was weak.

You oughta see the belt clearance in that engine...about 2mm between the flat side of the belt and the A/C compressor pulley. Good thing the tensioner was weak. ;)
 
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