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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Folks,
I just finished doing the head gasket on my 97 Taurus.

When I got all the parts back in, I found the engine won't crank without holding the little alarm switch.
But when it does crank it won't start.

It sounds and feels like it wants to start, then I get a horrible sound from the engine and all shuts down.

I'm thinking of buying an OBD2 scanner. Would that help?
Please, any help would be appreciated.
Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
QUOTE (draymond31 @ May 23 2010, 11:49 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=806271
if you disconnected fuel lines, make sure you bleed them at the fuel rail[/b]
Thanks Draymond,

Ok I used the little tire valve looking thing at the fuel rail and now I'm covered with gas. :huh:

She still won't start. :(

I got a obd2 checker and came up with a tran. error. P0743.
I never went near the tran. doing the head. I'm going to go dig at all the transmission sensors to see if they got dirty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I am going to assume the worst and assume I have done the timing wrong.
Tomorrow after work I am going to check that.
Please let me know if this procedure sounds like it will work.

First, firing order of the cylinders is 1-4-2-5-3-6
So TDC of each cyl. will also happen in that order.
And the intake and exhaust lobes will be in the same positions at TDC for each cyl.
If I remove the valve covers, and insert marked dowels into each of the cyl's, I can see when they reach TDC and by looking at the lobe positions I can see if it is the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke.

If I look at just one cyl the valves should behave like this:
1 TDC compression stroke (In closed) (Ex closed)
2 BDC compression stroke (In closed) (Ex opening)
3 TDC exhaust stroke (In opening) (Ex closing)
4 BDC exhaust stroke (In closing) (Ex closed)

If I'm wrong please correct me.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
QUOTE (Whitespys @ May 24 2010, 01:04 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=806422
I am going to assume the worst and assume I have done the timing wrong.
Tomorrow after work I am going to check that.
Please let me know if this procedure sounds like it will work.

First, firing order of the cylinders is 1-4-2-5-3-6
So TDC of each cyl. will also happen in that order.
And the intake and exhaust lobes will be in the same positions at TDC for each cyl.
If I remove the valve covers, and insert marked dowels into each of the cyl's, I can see when they reach TDC and by looking at the lobe positions I can see if it is the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke.

If I look at just one cyl the valves should behave like this:
1 TDC compression stroke (In closed) (Ex closed)
2 BDC compression stroke (In closed) (Ex opening)
3 TDC exhaust stroke (In opening) (Ex closing)
4 BDC exhaust stroke (In closing) (Ex closed)

If I'm wrong please correct me.
Thanks[/b]

Update time:
I was able to get the valve covers off when the sun went down.
With a flash light I took a peek at the cams. As far as I can tell they are in synch with each other.
I followed from 1-4-2-5-3-6 on the intake and exhaust independently and found their positions where they should be.
So it is safe to assume that I did not mess up left and right timing, but it is still possible I have advanced timing on the bottom.
This would explain the horrible sound I get when I crank the engine. If the piston has just almost reached TDC and the plug fires it would cause the crankshaft to rotate backwards and fight the starter motor.

Please, I am by no means an expert and would appreciate any suggestions or corrections.
I am only describing my method of troubleshooting with the hopes that I could help others who have had similar problems.
If you think I am barking up the wrong tree please let me know.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Day 3
I pulled the plugs and inspected each one.
1) looked normal
2) looked normal
3) looked normal
4) looked normal
5) wet with gas
6) wet with oil? / gas? I couldn't tell. I smelled gas, but it could have been from the previous one on my finger or socket.

The #5 plug does not worry me too much, It just means that plug isn't firing. (I might have damaged them when pulling them off the plugs)
If there is oil in #6 I got problems, I hope it's gas.
I'll go get new plug-wires tomorrow.

Well I was also worried I messed up on the timing, so.. I made some simple tools.
[attachment=33262:stroke_locators.jpg]
Blue marks are for BDC and red are for TDC.
Well I can say now top and bottom left and right are all in sync with each other.
Each cyl and cam moved like they are supposed to.

I had some more time so I checked compression on each cyl and they all gave me 40psi (+/- 5psi).
I had no plugs in the other cyls. and was rotating with a 12" ratchet by hand, so I'm happy not having 100psi as manual says It should be.

What the engine needs to run is spark, compression, and fuel.
I have compression. Tomorrow I will clean the fuel injectors to make sure I'm not dripping when I should be spraying. Clean contacts for the injectors and add some dielectric grease to them.
 

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40psi on cylinder compression? That's extremely low. It should be closer to 140psi.

When you set timing, did you use the "flags" on the backside of the cams, or the colored links on the chain. Some books describe using the flags, and this is incorrect. Use the colored links and line them up with the dimple on the front of the cam sprocket.

Are you positive you placed the timing wheel in correct position? It has two key way cut outs because it's used on the 2.5L Duratec, 3L Duratec, and V8 SHO. If it's in the 2.5L position, the engine will not start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
QUOTE (spridget @ May 26 2010, 12:06 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=807018
40psi on cylinder compression? That's extremely low. It should be closer to 140psi.

When you set timing, did you use the "flags" on the backside of the cams, or the colored links on the chain. Some books describe using the flags, and this is incorrect. Use the colored links and line them up with the dimple on the front of the cam sprocket.

Are you positive you placed the timing wheel in correct position? It has two key way cut outs because it's used on the 2.5L Duratec, 3L Duratec, and V8 SHO. If it's in the 2.5L position, the engine will not start.[/b]
Thanks for the reply.
I got 40psi hand cranking as hard and fast as I could, I will repeat the compression test when I can use the starter. I don't think I am strong enough to get any higher using elbow grease.

I used the arrows on the cam sprockets that face the rear of the engine. I read somewhere the flags can be up to 30 deg off.
And I used the painted marks on the timing chain.

On the timing wheel I placed it teeth curved out, with the key-way cut-out that was opposite a mark on the timing wheel. My teardown notes said this is how I had found it.

Is this the right position?
BTW I have an OBD2 scanner, if I cranked it would it give me a code?
Thanks,
Jose
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you all for your help.
Spridget
I went and double checked my notes before I put it back together.

Now I just need to change all my fluids and check for leaks.

Jose
 

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Did you get it running?
 

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I'd like to know too.

I just finished a head gasket replace on my girlfriend's 96 Sable and it cranks but won't start either. It's not sparking on cylinders 1, 2, and 4. I was thinking either I messed up the old, brittle harness when I disturbed it or that even though I didn't touch them, the crank or cam sensors need to be synched.

The only thing I did to the engine was rotate the crank by hand to adjust the rocker arms for reassembly. It was done with the battery disconnected.
 
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