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Unknown. It would require some research. Being the vehicle is an entirely different platform, highly unlikely due to geometry changes in the relationship between booster location, pedal geometry and the entire brake system sizing.

Your best bet is to look at other vehicles using the same platform as the Taurus. Explorer, Flex, MKT, etc. However, after briefly looking through some parts setups, they are really all the same with both the normal and heavy duty brakes using the same MC/Booster after 2013.

I don't see this being possible on the Taurus unfortunately.

The idealist in me wants this to be possible... I wonder if there's a way to increase the brake booster's pressure or something? The one that's already installed in our Taurus's?
 

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Only two ways to do that.

Larger diameter compatible booster.

Hydroboost conversion.


The parts just don't exist from a factory standpoint. It's a project even I wouldn't want to do. I'd just do a Taurus SHO brake swap and call it a day


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Only two ways to do that.

Larger diameter compatible booster.

Hydroboost conversion.


The parts just don't exist from a factory standpoint. It's a project even I wouldn't want to do. I'd just do a Taurus SHO brake swap and call it a day


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Well...let's hope Ford discontinuing our cars didn't screw up the aftermarket support,
 

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Only two ways to do that.

Larger diameter compatible booster.

Hydroboost conversion.


The parts just don't exist from a factory standpoint. It's a project even I wouldn't want to do. I'd just do a Taurus SHO brake swap and call it a day


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I just had something come to mind. I think a lot of issues with the Taurus is pedal response and I researched how to adjust that in any car. Tons of things came up with twisting or adjusting the brake booster pushrod length, therefore engaging the brakes much earlier when pushing the brake pedal.

Would you happen to know if this is something that can be done on the Taurus?
 

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I just had something come to mind. I think a lot of issues with the Taurus is pedal response and I researched how to adjust that in any car. Tons of things came up with twisting or adjusting the brake booster pushrod length, therefore engaging the brakes much earlier when pushing the brake pedal.

Would you happen to know if this is something that can be done on the Taurus?
Pretty much all vacuum boosters have this adjustment. If you remove the MC off the booster, there's a rod that can be threaded in and out. Typically it's set so that the rod just barely touches the back of the MC piston when the brake pedal is not pressed, and when you press the pedal, it immediately contacts and pushes the piston.

Typically the only time you adjust this is when you have replaced either the MC or the booster as the booster rod length needs to be adjusted due to production variances. You'd measure the depth of the MC bore from the mounting face, and adjust the rod to that length.

If the rod is too long, it will prematurely press on the MC piston and cause the brakes to lightly drag. If it's too short, you end up with a dead spot where the pedal does nothing until you press it far enough to contact the MC piston. Once it's set...it's set. Nothing to adjust after really.

If you search, there are videos showing how to adjust and even a tool.
 

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Pretty much all vacuum boosters have this adjustment. If you remove the MC off the booster, there's a rod that can be threaded in and out. Typically it's set so that the rod just barely touches the back of the MC piston when the brake pedal is not pressed, and when you press the pedal, it immediately contacts and pushes the piston.

Typically the only time you adjust this is when you have replaced either the MC or the booster as the booster rod length needs to be adjusted due to production variances. You'd measure the depth of the MC bore from the mounting face, and adjust the rod to that length.

If the rod is too long, it will prematurely press on the MC piston and cause the brakes to lightly drag. If it's too short, you end up with a dead spot where the pedal does nothing until you press it far enough to contact the MC piston. Once it's set...it's set. Nothing to adjust after really.

If you search, there are videos showing how to adjust and even a tool.

Oh sweet! I was expecting some type of response having to do with our vehicle using some state of the art electronic module that no other car ever uses and we can't adjust anything, haha.
 

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Oh sweet! I was expecting some type of response having to do with our vehicle using some state of the art electronic module that no other car ever uses and we can't adjust anything, haha.
Disclaimer though is I haven't done this on a Taurus yet, so unsure of any specific differences related to this vehicle. I really haven't had to touch my brakes. Even though mine eats rear brakes for some reason, I just bleed my brakes every year and i'm genuinely impressed at how well a car this big can stop.
 

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This may sound odd - But I recently changed the brakes on my 2015 SEL and I accidentally put the front hardware springs in the wrong fitting holes (I can't remember which one was correct, I believe it was the "top" hole). When I went to test drive/break in, the pedal travel was incredible each time I tried to come to a stop. I had to pump the brakes twice to get any bite on them. The hardware spring was pushing the brakes too far apart from the rotor.
 

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i have the z23 upgraded brakes and the drilled and slotted rotors and i love them as they are a bit noisy due to being drilled and slotted but the stopping distance is amazing i am more than likely to buy them again ...be careful changing your rears the parking brake damages easily then you will need new rear calipers for it to work again
 

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I replace the stock brakes on my '17 Taurus just because I hate the brake dust left behind. I installed Ceramic and love the way it stops, also no visible dust.
 

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I wouldn't go with drilled on a car this heavy. Brake mass helps dissipate heat and cool the brakes, and the drilled rotors reduce mass which concentrates the heat. The holes are there for helping vent gases released as a byproduct of heavy braking on race pads..which aren't really used on modern passenger vehicles. So other than show, drilled rotors are worse for performance than a quality set of blank rotors.

I'm not opposed to them in general, as I have a set of drilled rotors on my Mustang, but that car also weighs 1500 lbs less and has brakes larger than the Taurus. They barely get warm on a hard stop. The Taurus is just too heavy to reduce rotor mass.
 
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