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Discussion Starter #1
My lower control arm bushings are rotted out, and I have some "thudding" over bumps, so it's time for the lower control arms / ball joint assemblies. I wanted to see if anyone has done this DIY on their 6th gen bull. If so, any recommendations / advice is appreciated.
 

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Yea mine were gone too and I just replaced them like 3 weeks ago in my driveway using a jack and jackstands. Not really a big deal all it involves is removing few nuts and bolts. The one in the front is a bit of a PITA to remove/install cause space is limited and it's inside of the frame but it's perfectly doable. Do yourself a favor and before doing this spray all those nuts and bolts with some Liquid Wrench/PB blaster and let it do its work for a good amount of time (I did it the night before and then again about 30 mins before I got wrenching).

Below is a video giving you all you need to know. It's for 500 but our suspension is exactly the same:

If you're replacing tie rod ends as well, make sure you count the full revolutions (ball joint up) as you unscrew the old ones, this way you can probably get away w/o any alignment afterwards.

Make sure you don't overtorque the bolts, I accidentally used an impact on one of the rear bolts and snapped it (I think that impact was set to like 250 ft-lbs lol). I don't know what the actual specs are, usually go by reference to lug nuts at 100 and comparing bolt/thread size of bolt in question. I'd say front ~120, rear ones ~90 but that's just a guestimate.
 

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While you are in there - replace the whole assembly - arm, rear bushing, front bushing and ball joints.
Don't cheap out (like I did) and replace just the rear bushings. It is not worth the aggravation and now I'm doing the whole job again to replace (just) the front bushings.
 

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Get the wheel alignment, a lot less expensive then a new set of tires.
I got the Moog bushings but could not push them out with my press so I had the shop do it for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Good advice, guys. I bought the whole arms (Moogs from RockAuto for $80/ea). I got Moog outer tie rods also, since I’ll be in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK, so this job was a total PITA! The conical seats on the ball joints just kept spinning, regardless of how hard I tried to vise grip it to stop the movement. I started by trying use vise grips on the stud flats to hold the ball stud in place while turning off the nut, and no luck. Trying large pry bar, pickle fork, and everything else known to man, didn't work to hold the joint from spinning. Ultimately, disconnected the axle, and took the lower control arm + knuckle out on the benchtop vise, then ground off the studs to remove the ball joint/control arms from the knuckles. I'm sure there's an easier way, but you guys tell me?!?
 

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10mm wrench on the top of the stud, larger wrench on the nut. Try not to have the ball joint conical set break loose from the knuckle until the nut is all the way off. Once the ball joint breaks free from the knuckle then there is nothing to stop it turning. I've been known to run the nut back down tight to reseat the cone then back if off again.
(Have also been known to just cut the nut off when the threads were knackered and the nut just would not spin off)
 

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Slide a jack under the balljoint and put some upwards pressure on it to seat it. Then remove the nut.

Ford's balljoints are a two-wrench design. 10mm wrench on the shaft, and when appropriate wrench on the nut to remove. But when you can do it, try the jack method. Works great on tie rod ends because you can zip the nuts off easily with an impact.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you, guys. I actually did do the 10mm on the top and larger wrench (24mm, iirc) on the nut, but the top of the stud stripped out. I tried the jack method too, and no luck reseating the ball joint. Heat, no luck. But, I'll try to keep the ball joint from breaking loose until I get the nut off first, next time around. Thanks.
 
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