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I have a 2013 Taurus Limited with every option except navigation. For several days the backup camera is not working and on the Sony Sync MyTouch display a message appears after a bit that says “The backup camera is unavailable, please contact your local dealership!” The proximity Sensors in the bumpers work with audible alerts, but my feelings are that the camera went bad. Ther are plenty of F150, Explorer, etc. posts the show replacement cameras, however when it comes to this vehicle, very little is written. From what I gather the Taurus backup camera has the rear lid molding attached and the entire assembly is swapped out. Is their not a camera that can be purchased and used as an “OEM” replacement so it can work with the stock system? I tried taking the battery terminal off and aLao did a system reset of MySync to no avail. I know if I use a Forescan I can program the moving grid lines back into the mage without the need to program it at a dealer. I found an auto salvage that has the one piece camera, emblem and trim for $155 delivered. Please advise me f I on track with this, or if you have any pointers for me. Many thanks all.
 

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you have the same car of mine and i faced the exact same issue and it was simply a faulty camera unfortunately i have zero skills in fixing anything so i took it to the dealership and replaced the camera unit.

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My daughters 13 Limited just started doing this. Fairly common issue. Replacement cameras from Ford are ridiculously expensive. Check Ebay for used ones, which will still be pricey, but way cheaper than new. I also believe a new camera needs to be calibrated after installation, which can likely be done with Forscan.

When I told my daughter this info, she said she will just live without it.
 

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Anthony - the emblem/trim piece doesn't have to be replaced. The $155 is a good deal, but you may be able to find a salvage camera by itself for ~$100. Look for the lowest possible mileage salvage at the best price. The camera can be removed by pulling back the insulator "carpet" from the under side of the deck lid (get an upholstery/trim "cat claw" for $10 at Advance or autozone to remove the plastic fasteners holding on the carpet). You can reuse the plastic fasteners. Once behind the emblem, you'll see you can remove the camera (see attached pic). I did this a few years back, and I think it took a "T" / torq fastener (a.k.a. "star bit") or two to remove/replace the camera - you'll see this in the pic. You'll know what to do once you're back there - a "T" fastener or two, and an electrical connector (just push down the plastic tang and pull back). It wouldn't hurt to spray some electro-contact cleaner into the pins of the connector, then once dry, add a "little" dielectric grease (a.k.a "bulb grease" - comes in $1 packet at cash register of Advance or AutoZone) - just a little though. You'll have to do everything I just mentioned above even if you get the camera/emblem/trim as a single unit, because you have to disconnect/re-connect the electrical connector, and that's accessed by removing the carpet.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Anthony - the emblem/trim piece doesn't have to be replaced. The $155 is a good deal, but you may be able to find a salvage camera by itself for ~$100. Look for the lowest possible mileage salvage at the best price. The camera can be removed by pulling back the insulator "carpet" from the under side of the deck lid (get an upholstery/trim "cat claw" for $10 at Advance or autozone to remove the plastic fasteners holding on the carpet). You can reuse the plastic fasteners. Once behind the emblem, you'll see you can remove the camera (see attached pic). I did this a few years back, and I think it took a "T" / torq fastener (a.k.a. "star bit") or two to remove/replace the camera - you'll see this in the pic. You'll know what to do once you're back there - a "T" fastener or two, and an electrical connector (just push down the plastic tang and pull back). It wouldn't hurt to spray some electro-contact cleaner into the pins of the connector, then once dry, add a "little" dielectric grease (a.k.a "bulb grease" - comes in $1 packet at cash register of Advance or AutoZone) - just a little though. You'll have to do everything I just mentioned above even if you get the camera/emblem/trim as a single unit, because you have to disconnect/re-connect the electrical connector, and that's accessed by removing the carpet.
Thank you for this. I found an auto salvage that has the camera for $75+$20 for shipping. It is still cheaper than the $300 everyone wants for a new camera. I was able to pull the camera quickly using your post this weekend and really appreciate the support. I am hoping that once I get the replacement camera installed, I can download Forscan and attempt to calibrate the camera so I get the grid lines back.
 

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I’m glad the post helped! Thanks for the follow up. When I put mine in, I never had to go into FORScan to get the lines back. It was “plug and play” and worked without calibration. Hopefully, it’ll be the same for you.


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The replacement camera works great and backup images have restored to normal. One issue I have is that the solid lines overlay correctly on screen, however the dynamic white lines that move with the steering position are not there. I can live without them as the static green, yellow and red overlay lines do show up, however my question to all would be if an ODBII/ELM327 and Forscan would do the trick in recalibrating the camera in order to restore the white steering lines. I do not see a whole lot of posts on this, but from what I have read it can be done. Anyone who can chime in on this process would be great. Thanks again to you all.
 

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The replacement camera works great and backup images have restored to normal. One issue I have is that the solid lines overlay correctly on screen, however the dynamic white lines that move with the steering position are not there. I can live without them as the static green, yellow and red overlay lines do show up, however my question to all would be if an ODBII/ELM327 and Forscan would do the trick in recalibrating the camera in order to restore the white steering lines. I do not see a whole lot of posts on this, but from what I have read it can be done. Anyone who can chime in on this process would be great. Thanks again to you all.
Make sure the second "*" digit is a "1" like you see in the pic for this parameter: 730-01-03. I did this, but my 2013 still doesn't show dynamic lines. It never did show them even when I first got the car. Not sure why. Having said that, it might work for you.. If you had dynamic lines before, I'm guessing you already have a "1" in that line of code. If anyone else knows what to do to get the dynamic lines, I'm also interested.

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