2013 3.5l Barely runs, P0017 Code.

5558 Views 8 Replies 3 Participants Last post by Smitty79, Jan 10, 2021

Connor2712

Discussion Starter · Dec 22, 2020 (Edited)

My 2013 with about 125k miles is driving me nuts recently. Just replaced the water pump, yes that one, wheel bearings, pretty sure the CV joints are going out but more importantly, my car barely runs. It's been throwing a P0017 code for a Crank/Cam sensor (see photo). I thought, okay, cheap enough just to buy them and be done with it. So I replaced 2 of the cam sensors and the crank sensor. Turns out there's 4 cam sensors?? Can't find ANY info online about them, when I bought them they said there's only 2.

So I double checked the wires for the cam phasers, unplugged them and the battery hoping to reset something, worked for a little bit at idle but then when I revved up, take a look at the video in the link to see what happened there.

The timing components were in really good shape when I looked with the engine cover off, the teeth were marked and replaced in the exact same order as they came off, it shouldn't be a timing jump issue. Also this water pump repair was done back in October, the car started acting up in December.

Any help would be appreciated, need to get it running for Christmas, thanks for any info anyone has.

Please see attached video for the exact noise.

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Connor2712

Discussion Starter · #4 · Dec 24, 2020

Smitty79 said:
I’d say that’s related to the water pump replacement / timing. Even though Oct - Dec had no problem, it could be something that was progressive and came to a head after a couple months.

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So tonight I switched the 4 sensors around hoping to cause a different code, no luck, so I went ahead and removed the valve covers and found one spark plug well was flooded with oil, a gasket we replaced had got snagged on install and over time caused an oil leak. Got some new ones on the way, hoping that's the only problem. Chains seem to still be tight as suspected, hopefully I caught this before the oil leaked into the cylinder too much.

The leak was in the back under the intake, if it was in the front I would have seen it from the outside and been able to fix it sooner. Fingers crossed that's all it is, a $20 fix is much better then taking that damn engine cover off again. Even though I was getting a code for a camshaft error I'm pretty sure this is all it was. Will update next week.

FYI using a spray bottle nozzle and tube works great for getting fluids out of where they aren't supposed to be.

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Connor2712

Discussion Starter · #6 · Dec 29, 2020

Update, engine runs better, so far, but started leaking oil because those stupid plastic valve covers broke during installing the seals, I thought I sealed it enough before I put it on but I guess not.

This otta do it...right? The back sides even better but it won't let me upload it. If this can hold for even 6 months I'll be happy, new covers aren't too expensive so..

Let me be a lesson to anyone who reads this thread, BE CAREFUL with these seals and covers, even more careful then normal. We took our time with the water pump replacement to make sure we did everything right and still messed this up. Could have been worse I guess.

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Connor2712

Discussion Starter · #8 · Jan 10, 2021

Well, I replaced all 4 cam phasers (VVT solenoids), I've tried replacing cam/crank sensors, tried draining the capacitors on the computers with the jumped positive-negative wire trick. Nothing has gotten that stupid code to go away. Gonna check individual wiring tomorrow, I don't know what else it would be, besides the timing chain but I'm 99% sure that is tight, I was there when it was put on and I've checked it since. Car runs great (and shifts perfect after that PCM reset), just has trouble idling in park, only sometimes though.

Just gonna keep this updated until it's fixed incase anyone else has this issue in the future. Definitely glad I have a Ranger as a second vehicle, that thing is solid as a rock.

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