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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I am in need of help. My 2010 Taurus would not start for my wife. SO of course she calls me. Being that I live and work on a Coast Guard base I swung over to troubleshoot immediately since we have vacation plans starting tomorrow. Taking leave because family is flying in.

I first try to start using the other key, which I carry, and the car just clicks under the hood. (same symptom as the wife had) The anit-theft light on the dash blinks rapidly while this happens so I begin to suspect that its the PATS.

I next disconnect the B+ terminal and let it sit for 5 minutes. Try to start. No change.

I then start wondering if the fuses are suspect in for the anti theft. So I check the passenger compartment fuse #36 and its fine so I reinsert. I did this with battery hooked up but that was probably a no-no. (i did not really suspect anything inside cabin but it was easier than checking relays so I went there)

I go back to thinking maybe I need to disconnect the B+ terminal for longer so I do it again this time waiting about 10 mins. No change.


So here I am sitting in my car. New Uniform now Dirty, and wife needing to take the kids to swim lessons. Admiral is visiting us in T-minus 2 hours and my car wont start. Both fuse covers are off and battery hooked back up ...SO I think...cycle the Transmission from Park to drive and back. I do that and try to start, and then TSHTF. (the **** hits the fan)


This is how TSHTF... I turn key nothing happens but I hear clicking under hood...then it stops..immediately followed by clicking in cabin fuse box...all this with no lights indicators on dash. Then I turn key off and dash dings for a second, dash light flicker and flash and then nothing...then I hear light clicking again after key is removed.

SO being a glutten for punishment I turn key again and pretty much the same but dash lights flash then stop..then clicking under hood and then under dash.


Now I am depressed and baffled because I know I am in for a wild ride on this one. I have experience fixing complicated electrical problems but with no drawings and or schematics I am not sure where to start..

I am thinking I should go back out and snug down B+ and try again to see if the original symptoms come back (which I will do) But I had to walk away before I threw a wrench so I figured why not seek advice on this forum.

Any advice, help, or input is greatly appreciated at this time.

Thank you all,

Lou
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks...

I tend to get too deep too fast when I am troubleshooting. I hope it is a battery, that would be outstanding!

Now that I think about it, the car usually is driven only on base so the battery may not getting charged up.

That was my next check so I hope it works.

Thanks again.
 

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Agree with these guys, I think the first thing I would have done is attempted to jump the car and see if it starts. Also, several guys over at the SHO Performance Forum that have 2010's have had to replace their batteries, so I don't think it should be unexpected that your battery may be at the end of it's life...looks like Ford didn't use really good long lasting batteries in our cars.
BTW, good luck, hope it is only the battery. Keep us updated as to what you find.
 

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Start with a jump start or charged battery swap. If that doesn't work then we can go from there with diagrams.
 

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We had the same problem yesterday. The way it happened was very strange. The battery had no signs of being weak. My dad turned around the car in the driveway then went back inside. When he when back out to leave it wouldn't start and the car was locked in park. The electronics acted really weird when the key was in the on position. However, I knew TCCA would have the answer. :) Sure enough, I found this thread. Since it didn't have an official answer/update, I wanted to update it to say that we got a new battery and it's good to go. Definitely never had this experience with a dead battery, though.
 

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The battery probably wasn't completely dead, just low enough to not start. Probably 8-10V. Electronics tend to freak out with low voltage... for example, my multimeter said the battery in my girlfriend's jeep was resting at 15.6V and rising. Nope, just low batteries in the multimeter.
 

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The battery probably wasn't completely dead, just low enough to not start. Probably 8-10V. Electronics tend to freak out with low voltage... for example, my multimeter said the battery in my girlfriend's jeep was resting at 15.6V and rising. Nope, just low batteries in the multimeter.
Right, it's just that this is really our first "modern" car, so we never experienced a car go from starting with no problem, to not even being able to crank. Plus with the electronics freaking out and locked in park, it did not seem like something as simple as a dead battery. I can see how the OP didn't think so either.
 

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Right, it's just that this is really our first "modern" car, so we never experienced a car go from starting with no problem, to not even being able to crank. Plus with the electronics freaking out and locked in park, it did not seem like something as simple as a dead battery. I can see how the OP didn't think so either.
First thing that came to my mind when reading the OP was dead battery... Just goes to show how people think differently
 
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