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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2010 Ford Taurus Limited Blend Doors Actuators Replacement (w dual controls)

Thanks to this Forum and several others I wanted to replace BOTH passenger Actuators with the latest BLACK replacement with Motor Craft part number YH-1779 motor assembly. However, I received a WHITE actuator # AA5Z-19E616-C factory marked as their BLACK latest actuator. I found what was needed @ Amazon
Blend Door Actuator -


While this is not a genuine Ford or Motorcraft part it is a direct replacement for the factory blend door actuator. Their part number is X001L4X2PF

There are TWO passenger actuators used on this vehicle. The one is located behind the glove box and the other on the left side of the glove box about where the trunk locking button is.
The original factory installed actuator behind the glove box on this vehicle was white and the other was black but both were marked
AA5Z-19E616-C, so they are the same!
The right outer (behind glove box) controls the distribution of air and is usually the cause of “clicking noise” behind the dash. The right inter controls hot or cold (A/C or Heater). When I first replaced the easy to install right actuator, that was “clicking” I thought I was done, however it was Summer and I did not check if the heater was working. When my Wife went on an Out-of-State trip and much colder the passenger vents were blowing cold air only! This seems to be a common issue.

Now for the real issue, replacing the out- of -site right passenger actuator that controls hot or cold temperature air flow to the right-side air vents. One clue is this is estimated as around a $400.00 Dealer labor cost charge for a $20.00 parts replacement!

After removing the glove box door
Check Out:

Ford Taurus Passenger Blend Door Actuator Replacement

You then need to remove the plastic harness shield as shown above and unsnap the bottom release tab. To unsnap the top tab I purchased a Speed Electric Drill Grinding Rotary Tool Kit

You will also need to have a ¼ drive 5/16 socket, 1/4 drive swivel, extensions, ratchets, shop light, pen light flash light and a lot of time.

The push pin that holds the cover in place at the rear can be cut off, that you can see. The wiring cover (2 piece) has wiring run inside from the top entering and exiting at the bottom held in place with cloth tape. To cut it off cut it on protruding tabs on the cover so not to cut any wires. You should now be able to remove this cover.
You now can see this actuator in need of replacement, after you place the back of this harness out of the way. I wanted to remove it completely but could not get it loose. The rear 5/16 (bottom) Actuator mounting bolt is viewable and removable. The other mounting screw up front is the real issue. I attempted to use the 5/16 socket with the flex joint plus several extensions and a short ratchet. I used the Drill Grinding Rotary Tool Kit to open up the hole surrounding the bolt to be remove a little. I also used cable tie back straps to get the harness out of the way. The flex joint was too flexible so I wrapped it with tape to firm it up and did get this screw loose. I then just only used the socket with the flex joint attached using only my fingers to loosen and remove the screw. Remove the defective part after disconnecting the short power harness on top. You can see how it is attached on the other Actuator.

Before installing the replacement, I cut off the extra tab to ease install, attach the above harness onto the new Actuator. Using a pen light flash light I matched up the splines of the too and rotated a short distance clockwise to install. I started the bottom screw but did not tighten to help with the install of the top other hard to reach other one. I again used the only way I found using the socket with swivel flex attached (wrapped with tape) to start and install it. I also, this time, place tape over the screw to the socket to keep it from dropping out attempting to install it! After a long attempt, Success!
Good Luck!!!
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