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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

Bought a 2010 Ford Taurus last night. Crank, no start.

Haven’t had a chance to get my hands on her yet and sadly it’s a fun one with no back history.

Wanted to run something by you guys real fast.

I do know the fuel pump has been replaced by the previous owner who bought it from a friend.

On ignition turn you can hear the pump prime. Question I have on these is if the fuel control module is bad will it still send voltage to prime the pump?

Again haven’t had a chance yet to check spark, compression, fuel compression etc.

Not use to the newer models so want to check before I dig in. Will voltage test the module once I can get my hands on it but curious if the pump can still prime with a bad fuel control module.

Thanks as always.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No, bad module = no prime.
Any codes? Check with Forscan.
Got a few minutes to check something’s.

Sadly no codes showing.

Your right, unplugged module and it didn’t prime. So module seems good on basic check.

Pulled a coil and coil has spark.

Had to stop to get to work but next will be compression, fuel check.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
With Forscan?

Your HPFP could be bad. There would be a code for that.
Sadly yes :(

Pumps new supposedly, haven’t tested fuel system yet.

Did some digging and found the car was purchased at a auction beginning of year, was labeled stationary so assume previous owner of previous owner bought it thinking he could use or flip it and gave up. 202k miles and still has the same miles.

Since coils have spark, going to move towards next thing your idea. Test fuel pressure, injector voltage/pulse and compression.

Is it possible since these have electronic throttle bodies that the IAC or TPS can be damaged resulting in it not cranking?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
With Forscan?

Your HPFP could be bad. There would be a code for that.
Saw something online referencing a stuck closed IAC can cause a no start situation. Was reproduced by pressing down the pedal to open the throttle during crank which resulted in a start but being these are electronic I’m not sure if the plate will open with a slightly pressed pedal during start.

Just thinking of things to possibly check.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Have you checked the emergency fuel shut off ? Unsure of the exact terminology but it turns of the fuel post crash to prevent a fire, My grandsons was tripped after he hit a curb.
Was able to get my hands on her again tonight.

Noid light showed power and injector pulse.
Coolant overflow tank was empty, put 2 gallons of water in for kicks and she’s leaking bad by timing chain cover compressor. Leaked all 2 gallons out in less than a minute.

Not radiator, not upper or lower hoses. Def coming from compressor/timing chain cover area.

Since I got;
Spark
Noid light flashing (injector getting power, PCM working as it should)
Pump running
Fuel flow
Massive coolant leak
Power steering hose gash
New fuel (found out fuel has set since March so drained and refilled)
Pulled oil cap and milk shake oil on cap, couldn’t see inside but a substantial amount on cap.

Found out she was in a front end collision, assumptions are the root of all evil but decided based on the information I’m going to assume anyways the front end collision did something to the coolant system and I’m probably looking at a popped head gasket, bad water pump with bad timing chain cover crack/seal as well as a possible jumped timing chain.

At this point I’m just gonna swap the engine. Thankfully this car has the same engine that 5 other Ford models have and I know a place with about 20 of them for $300
Thanks for the reply’s everyone!
 
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