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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I replaced the power steering pump on my 2007 but it is leaking where the high pressure line threads into the pump and I cannot figure out what's wrong so I am asking for help. The leak is where the tube goes into the flare nut. I measured from the base of the flare nut, where the nylon o-ring sits in its groove, to the tip of the high pressure line, and it's a half inch (first photo). Then I measured the depth of the well in the pump using a piece of wire, and it's 3/4 inch. So the tip of the high pressure line does not bottom out in the well. I'm guessing that there is an internal o-ring on the inside of the flare nut that would seal the pipe to the nut. Mine has some up and down wiggle of the flare nut moving on the pipe, and that wiggle is where the leak is. Can someone tell me, do I need to replace the high pressure line? Thank you very much.
 

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I think a few people have had this problem over the years with the fitting itself failing on the line. But I suppose the easy question is, did you replace the teflon oring that sits above the threads? It's one time use, so if you didn't you should start there before giving up on the high pressure line as a whole.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I think a few people have had this problem over the years with the fitting itself failing on the line. But I suppose the easy question is, did you replace the teflon oring that sits above the threads? It's one time use, so if you didn't you should start there before giving up on the high pressure line as a whole.
Thanks for the reply. I replaced the o-ring -- a new one came with the new pump. And as you said, it's a one-time use only, so I will need to get some more of those.
 

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Where are a couple of shot showing the position of my new Teflon seal. Apparently you are supposed to line the threads and carefully push the seal over top the threads to the base. This is a 2005.

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6C6EB4E6-33BA-43C4-BBE4-9B269CC67676.jpeg
 

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In the photos above you can see where the seal sits against the shoulder and not beyond it. Then the seal gets buried into the nut but there are still several threads showing. It worked for me with that configuration. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
In the photos above you can see where the seal sits against the shoulder and not beyond it. Then the seal gets buried into the nut but there are still several threads showing. It worked for me with that configuration. Good luck.
Spock, thank you for the help and photos. I'm sure I had that o-ring properly in place. It seems to me that o-ring serves to prevent a leak coming by the threads. I did not have a leak coming by the threads. My leak was where the tube enters the nut. My guess is there is an unseen o-ring between the tube and the nut, that is, on the inner bore of the nut, and that is leaking. Do you recall if you had any movement of the nut along the tube? My nut moves up and down on the tube about a millimeter or so, and I'm wondering if that reflects a worn out inner o-ring.
 

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Spock, thank you for the help and photos. I'm sure I had that o-ring properly in place. It seems to me that o-ring serves to prevent a leak coming by the threads. I did not have a leak coming by the threads. My leak was where the tube enters the nut. My guess is there is an unseen o-ring between the tube and the nut, that is, on the inner bore of the nut, and that is leaking. Do you recall if you had any movement of the nut along the tube? My nut moves up and down on the tube about a millimeter or so, and I'm wondering if that reflects a worn out inner o-ring.
There is a permanent O-Ring seal between the nut and the tube. That allows the nut to turn in relation to the tube for installation. If that leaks you have to replace the hose/fitting.
-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
There is a permanent O-Ring seal between the nut and the tube. That allows the nut to turn in relation to the tube for installation. If that leaks you have to replace the hose/fitting.
-chart-
Chartmaker, thank you! What you said makes sense and confirms what I was thinking. I guess I will have to replace the high pressure line. I'm not looking forward to that because the nut at the rack end looks difficult to access, but I saw a comment while I was researching this problem on the forum that a crow's foot will do the trick.
 

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Crowfoot and a few long extensions will have the PS line off the rack in a couple minutes. BTDT more than once.
 

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BTDT = Been There Done That

I believe sheila is right about the pressure line at the rack being 18 mm. Years ago I picked up SAE and metric crowfoot sets at Harbor Freight for a decent price. I wouldnt be surprised if you could get crowfoot sets on Ebay for cheap.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
BTDT = Been There Done That

I believe sheila is right about the pressure line at the rack being 18 mm. Years ago I picked up SAE and metric crowfoot sets at Harbor Freight for a decent price. I wouldnt be surprised if you could get crowfoot sets on Ebay for cheap.
Thank you for BTDT. I'll remember that, and stash it alongside YACS (you are correct, sir). Harbor Freight has a metric set but it skips 18 mm. I scrolled through ebay and amazon and ended up buying a 10 piece set on amazon, 10 -19 mm, for $25. I could have bought a single 18 mm for $8. I thought to myself I have been working on cars for more than 50 years and have never needed a metric crowfoot wrench, but chances are if I buy the single 18 mm, luck will have it that sometime in the near future I will need one of the other sizes, so I decided to spring for the set. It's still way cheaper to have to buy some tools now and then and be able to drive older cars by doing all the repairs and maintenance.
 

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Here are some examples from Rock Auto. You’ll have to break the nuts free from the exhaust manifold. I heated a tight nut with a propane torch and then hit it with liquid wrench. Prices are toggled for Canadian dollars. Multiply by 0.7. Good luck.

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I repaired the leak at the swivel joint by using a tubing cutter midway on the metal line. I did the same at LKQ pick your parts yard. I used a brass union to connect the two tubing sections. No need to replace the entire hose.
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I have the same issue but on a 1993 3.0 standard old GL. There is a captive O-ring inside the hose fitting at the high pressure hose end and you can't replace it, you have to buy a new hose. Kind of stupid but what do I know, I am not a member of SAE. Can anyone suggest a good local source for those Teflon O-rings on the outer threads? I have a couple of NOS pumps in stock and they are not with them.
 

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I have the same issue but on a 1993 3.0 standard old GL. There is a captive O-ring inside the hose fitting at the high pressure hose end and you can't replace it, you have to buy a new hose. Kind of stupid but what do I know, I am not a member of SAE. Can anyone suggest a good local source for those Teflon O-rings on the outer threads? I have a couple of NOS pumps in stock and they are not with them.
Last time I got mine from RA, cheap. Came in a pair of different sizes.
Pic of my home made install tool. Ford uses a metal funnel for this.
-chart-
 

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I have the same issue but on a 1993 3.0 standard old GL. There is a captive O-ring inside the hose fitting at the high pressure hose end and you can't replace it, you have to buy a new hose. Kind of stupid but what do I know, I am not a member of SAE. Can anyone suggest a good local source for those Teflon O-rings on the outer threads? I have a couple of NOS pumps in stock and they are not with them.
The last time i got the PS pump job, i got a factory ford kit from the dealer. Had multiple orings in it, and they all fit the way they should. Think it had the large Oring for the pump body too with it. it was not that much as i recall.
When i did the rack, i did find a aftermarket Teflon ring kit and it seemed to work ok. Those rack fittings are a pita. especially with VAPS.
 
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