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Discussion Starter #1

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Does the solenoid click when you "arc the starter"? Your ignition switch activates the solenoid but the solenoid actually acts as a high current relay to power the starter motor. Where did you get the replacement sarter from and what were the symptoms before you replaced the starter, the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Does the solenoid click when you "arc the starter"? Your ignition switch activates the solenoid but the solenoid actually acts as a high current relay to power the starter motor. Where did you get the replacement sarter from and what were the symptoms before you replaced the starter, the same.
Symptoms didn't change at all. Bought it at autozone.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Does the theft light flash? Does the ignition switch seem to work normally?
Yeah, ignition switch seems to work like it should. There is no theft light flashing.

Did they test your old and new starter at Autozone?
No, but outside of that it seems that it would be odd that both are failed (and in the same way.) I'm ruling out bad starter. Thank you though.
 

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Yeah, ignition switch seems to work like it should. There is no theft light flashing.


No, but outside of that it seems that it would be odd that both are failed (and in the same way.) I'm ruling out bad starter. Thank you though.

I asked the question because I wanted to know that the old starter was tested and failed. As mentioned above the PATS anti theft system will stop the starter from turning but it also stops the solenoid from functioning, but you said it was making a solenoid click.


Duracraft is not a well respected brand of aftermarket parts here on the forum with some calling them "DuraCrap" but if the old one tested bad and the new one is good then it has to be wiring. It gets the grounding through the bell housing so the bolts have to be clean that hold it in place and I believe there is a ground strap to the bell housing. The next is the main power wire which I assume is clean and good and it is connected to a good charged battery. If the battery connections are good and battery is at least 12.5 volts then that is all you can do except for having the CCA tested. The only other wire is the key ignition wire but you said you are getting the solenoid to click. Sounds like you don't have enough current to crank the engine that could be ground connections, battery condition or positive main power wire condition.
 
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