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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys new to this forum, my brother has a 2005 SE with the Vulcan motor. Its having issues that I'm trying to trouble shoot but may be looking at new transmission and or engine as it is not running correct at all. Now I have sources to pick up the DOHC motor/transmission for a very good price what all is needed to swap from the Vulcan to the DOHC motor? Engine harness, PCM I'm thinking at least not sure if exhaust needs to be changed or engine cradle. Point me in a direction guys.
 

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there is alot that needs to be changed. all the accessories, coolant hoses, pcm (reprogramed too i believe to work with pats)

others have done it and have said it was not worth the effort...
 

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Won't the coolant reservoir require a different custom hose to work with the vulcan res? Not a huge issue but something to think about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'll have to do some looking, I believe alot of things should be the same. And my sources the engine would come with all accessories so no worry about that.
 

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I've thought about doing the same thing, however I found that I'll wait until the engine NEEDS to be replaced. But then I decided after looking into it some more I've decided it's not worth it at all.

Why do you think it needs to be replaced? Have you had any codes scanned yet? If the internals of the engine and the transmission are ok, then why waste time and money and blood/sweat replacing them?

Why replace the vulcan with the dirtytech? For a tiny bit more power? The 12v, for the most part, has less problems, is easier to work on, is overall cheaper and easier to replace with one of its own.

The only way I'd replace it with the 24v is if it was free and I had a lift.
 

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I have two Sables/Duratec wagons and a Taurus/Vulcan sedan. Although I love to drive the Sables they are nearly impossible to work on. I once dropped a 3/8" drive ratchet down behind the engine and the only way I could get it out was to drop the weighted end of a boot lace down near it. Then I could lasso the ratchet handle and pull it back the way it fell.The Vulcan setup is much easier to work on. That's the main reason I bought it for my daughter.

The biggest hurdle you will have for the swap will be the PCM. The Duratec uses the AX4N transmission while the Vulcan is likely an AX4S. The two transmissions use different PCMs but the programming of the PCM is also tied to your car's options such as the PATS system. There is no way to cross reference which PCM you will need. Even the dealer can't (or won't) reflash your PCM for a different transmission.

I hope what I've shown here will help you make an informed decision about the swap.

Good luck, Popeye
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok well the problem is.. the vulcan seems to be running QUITE lean by the looks of the spark plugs. No check engine light on... car has NO power whatsoever... tranny fluid is clean and not burnt at all. However driving it the other day it took literally a minute to get up to 60 MPH and then through town I was going up a small small hill and literally came to a turtle pace and then the engine started kind of free wheeling like the car was in neutral. When it gets up to around 3K RPM its got a very noticeable rattle from somewhere. So I parked it and just sitting in park I tried to rev it up and it was VERY slow to rev. I'm at a loss of what is wrong with the car.


Edit: In looking up parts between the Vulcan and the Duratec they in fact do use the same PCM part #, so I believe I could have a stock Duratec PCM flashed by the dealer no problem.
 

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From reading some other posts about this swap, seems as though the tough part of this is in the little things. Like PATS keys, clusters, GEM, and so on. The one guy who's a ford master technician did it and said he would never do it again. If you just have the engine+tranny+accessories+PCM, chances are you won't be able to make it work. The best way as I understand this is to have a complete donor car and first swap the entire subframe assembly (engine, tranny, drive shafts...) and then whatever other electronic things you need to make it all work.

If your car is running lean and has no power, I want to say you have fuel problems. Get the pressure measured. In fact if this happens to be a clogged fuel filter or a bad fuel pump, swapping in a new engine will not solve the problem. The other possiblility is maybe there's some clogging in the cat so that the engine can't breath... But that seems less likely (and your cat is covered by the 8 years/80K emissions warrany anyways).

Good luck!

Yiran
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
QUOTE (yiranhu @ May 31 2010, 11:38 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=808259
From reading some other posts about this swap, seems as though the tough part of this is in the little things. Like PATS keys, clusters, GEM, and so on. The one guy who's a ford master technician did it and said he would never do it again. If you just have the engine+tranny+accessories+PCM, chances are you won't be able to make it work. The best way as I understand this is to have a complete donor car and first swap the entire subframe assembly (engine, tranny, drive shafts...) and then whatever other electronic things you need to make it all work.

If your car is running lean and has no power, I want to say you have fuel problems. Get the pressure measured. In fact if this happens to be a clogged fuel filter or a bad fuel pump, swapping in a new engine will not solve the problem. The other possiblility is maybe there's some clogging in the cat so that the engine can't breath... But that seems less likely (and your cat is covered by the 8 years/80K emissions warrany anyways).

Good luck!

Yiran[/b]
Vehicle has 144K miles on it so no luck on warranty. Shop said catalytic converter is plugged so they are going to put new ones in and see if that fixes it. I told them that if it doesn't it's on their dime :)
 
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