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2004 Taurus SE, gold, pretty basic....
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So.... Here's the new kids car.... This is a 2004 Taurus SE with manual A/C, the AX4N tranny and gold(ish) paint and 212K miles. I'm currently trying to fix all the gremlins, but for every problem I fix, it seems 2 crop up..... for codes, it was giving a misfire, cylinder 6, general misfire, and bad downstream O2 sensor. Overall, this car runs really well and seems to have only minor issues except for what's described below.

Here's a list of the repairs so far and status:

Spark plugs and wires replaced with motorcraft copper plugs. It had 4 iridium plugs and 2 copper ones, plus obviously bad wires. So far so good.

O2 sensor replaced and codes cleared.

Transmission fluid changed (Castrol Mercon V--- a little hard to find now) with filter, pan removed and all the shavings removed from the magnet.

Brake fluid changed with Dot 4 fluid. found a loose bolt on the driver side caliper. After the change, had a major leak on the passenger caliper where the hose attaches, tightened banjo bolt to stop the leak. Still no pressure... suspect the old fluid was preventing leaks in the master cylinder. New cylinder, rear cylinders, and front rebuild kits on order. Hoses/lines appear to be fine.

A/C orifice tube cleaned-- it was blocked with fuzzy stuff and a few metal filings. The compressor appears to have been changed at some point, as part of the old compressor was still on the clutch plug. A/C system recharged with R134. Compressor appears to be working properly now, but there's still.... issues.

--> For the A/C system... this is where I need advise. Before pulling the orifice tube and refilling, the cooling fans operated just fine. While filling the system, they worked at first, but then stopped running about when the compressor turned on 100% of the time.(+150 psi high side pressure). Also, the temperature coming out of the vents was 140 degrees.... just a little on the warm side, with the manual controls on cold/max A/C.

I'm also running an issue where the car will only accept fuel at a slow rate. Charcoal cannister is good, and the evap lines appear to be clear. Solenoid at the cannister is functioning properly as well. I read there's a screen in the inlet that could be clogged, but the fuel tank is full. If I pop the filler tube off, am I going to dump 20 gallons of fuel on the floor? The other possibility is where the evap hose goes into the tank. I'll look at that after the tank is run almost dry-- I don't feel like lifting a ~200 lb tank if I don't have to.
 

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2004 Taurus SE, gold, pretty basic....
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Update.... the cooling fan is now repaired.... really hard repair too-- the plug wasn't fully seated.

I suspect the blend door is bad or the controller for it. That's next.... Brake parts are tracking for Wednesday.
 

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Update.... the cooling fan is now repaired.... really hard repair too-- the plug wasn't fully seated.

I suspect the blend door is bad or the controller for it. That's next.... Brake parts are tracking for Wednesday.
If it is manual climate, and with se that is highly likely. The electronics are in the blend door motor. The only thing in the control panel is a rheostat. Blend door motors are noted for stripping gears.
-chart-
 

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Good to know. It's the manual system. Are there any checks/validation for it, or is it simply replace and see if it works?
Remove the plastic shield and you should be able to see the end of the motor shaft. key on and exercise the temp knob and see if the shaft moves ~90 degrees.
-chart-
 

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2004 Taurus SE, gold, pretty basic....
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It doesn't move with the temp knob. I checked the fuse yesterday (looks like slot 27), gears are not stripped, motor still works, but the board has heat damage at the solid state amp chip. I'm guessing bad circuit board. The temp knob changes resisitance with movement. The part in the car looks like an OEM one too. Do I get the award for the longest lasting one???
 

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It doesn't move with the temp knob. I checked the fuse yesterday (looks like slot 27), gears are not stripped, motor still works, but the board has heat damage at the solid state amp chip. I'm guessing bad circuit board. The temp knob changes resisitance with movement. The part in the car looks like an OEM one too. Do I get the award for the longest lasting one???
Here's your award:
Food Brown Handwriting Ingredient Cake decorating supply
 

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It doesn't move with the temp knob. I checked the fuse yesterday (looks like slot 27), gears are not stripped, motor still works, but the board has heat damage at the solid state amp chip. I'm guessing bad circuit board. The temp knob changes resisitance with movement. The part in the car looks like an OEM one too. Do I get the award for the longest lasting one???
My past, sold '03 @ 199K still works. Car going to JY. Too rusty for inspection, brake booster leaking, CELL on, red bk light on, amber bk light on. Totaled in '11, not fixed except glass, and 120K more miles. Only climate issue, the EATC lost it's memory. Had to look up the reset procedure. Battery ran down and the EATC lost it's way.
-chart-
 

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I replaced my controller with a Dorman brand but it did not stroke the full 90 degrees and therefore my AC was 15 degrees hotter than it should have been. Used a JY OEM unit which solved the issue. 36 degrees before the blend door actuator and 53 degrees after which means the heat wasn't being shut off 100 percent.
 

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2004 Taurus SE, gold, pretty basic....
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
well, got the new controller in today. Still not getting A/C, but at least the heat is off. Output temp seems to be close to ambient, with pressures at 15/150. Added more refrigerant to get it to 50/150. Something's still wrong in there...

Replaced both rear brake pistons (drum), rebuilt both front pistons and the master cylinder. Using Motorcraft DOT 4 LV fluid. Some nasty junk came out of the rear lines while bleeding. Still don't have good brakes- front lines are leaking at the banjo bolt. Guess I need new copper washers or front lines too.

Misfire code came back again. this time on cylinder 1. At least the trans fluid still looks good and parking lot shifting feels good.
 

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2004 Taurus SE, gold, pretty basic....
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
After installing 4 copper washers, the brakes are fixed now. Looking a the design, there's ribs in the hose block for the caliper to hose connection that bites into the washers to help create a seal. When you reuse a washer, if the washer is not PERFECTLY aligned with it's previous position, it'll create a leak path. So, the lesson is, if you pull off the brake hose, or have to retighten that banjo bolt, replace the washers. The dealer may be cheaper than the parts store on this one too-- it was $4 for a pack of 2, and they only stock 1 package at Autozone and Oreilly's. You need 2 washers per axle, or 4 total washers. Sounds like something to keep on hand too.
 

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After installing 4 copper washers, the brakes are fixed now. Looking a the design, there's ribs in the hose block for the caliper to hose connection that bites into the washers to help create a seal. When you reuse a washer, if the washer is not PERFECTLY aligned with it's previous position, it'll create a leak path. So, the lesson is, if you pull off the brake hose, or have to retighten that banjo bolt, replace the washers. The dealer may be cheaper than the parts store on this one too-- it was $4 for a pack of 2, and they only stock 1 package at Autozone and Oreilly's. You need 2 washers per axle, or 4 total washers. Sounds like something to keep on hand too.
I got a pac of 6 or 8 from local parts Help board for ~$4.xx.When hooking to a caliper which is iron, watch for rust and scrape any away for proper clearance. Never reuse a washer. I have replaced two front hoses to existing caliper and need good cleaning of the iron. The hoses came with new bolt with new copper washers.
-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I put the car back in service after bleeding the master cylinder... again.. and the brakes... again... and adjusting the rear drums-- one appears to be adjusting and the other was still run all the way in. Probably going to need new hardware there... Car runs well, stops, no leaks, but is still a bit spongy on the pedal. The kids started driving it more since they spun a bearing in the corolla engine.

My daughter approached me the other day. "Dad.... There's a brown crack in the door jam".

Yay.

Using my trusty body panel inspection tool... you guessed it, my fingernail, I discovered the driver rear quarter panel has a 1/4" of body filler and is rusting underneath. It looks like the panel was repaired, but in order to raise the panel even with the door, they filled... and filled... and filled... to the point where the quarter panel was higher than the door... instead of adjusting the door inwards. 5 minutes of grinder work later the rust is mostly uncovered, wiped down, and rust converter applied. Guess I'll be doing some paint work later...
 
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