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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Gonna tackle the plugs on my 2004 Duratec which has 90,000 miles. Just did the front and the plugs did not look that bad but gap was .060 instead of .054. Just a couple quick questions:
1. Looks like a pretty easy job to get the upper intake off but do I need to have a new gasket ready or is it reuseable?

2. Anything else I should watch out for or take care of while I have the U.I. off?

3. Seems my gas mileage is not as good as is used to be. Do you guys notice a difference when you change the plugs? (getting around 18-24 mpg city/highway).

Thanks, FishX
 

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TAKE YOUR TIME........ This is really an easy way to do the back plugs if you take your time. You wont need any new gaskets, they are all an "O" ring style and are re-usable. Start by taking off your air tube from the filter box and work back to the throtle body then the UIM. Once you have all the hoses off, unbolt the 8 bolts holing it down and lift off the UIM. I ALWAYS cover the LIM with a clean rag or towel just to make sure I dont drop anything into the motor. Change you back 3 plugs and slowly replace everything in reverse order. The first time, may take you over an hour to do this, but in time it can be done quicker if you want. I have had mine off probably 5 or 6 times already and thats the only way I change plugs on anyones duratec.
 

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I changed the plus on a '96 duretec. I'm not really sure if your '04 is made the same way,probably is. Any way an easy way to get to the back plugs is to pop off the drain cow (the plastic grill like apparatus that allows the rain water to drain) I think you know what I'm talking about. Then the rear plugs are easier to get to. I didn't need to remove any manifold.GOOD LUCK!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Anyone have the Duratec torque sequence and ftlbs specs handy for the U.I.M.??? Gonna do this up at my cabin but I have the book downstate.
 

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To me, removing the intake is a no brainer. Gaskets get old crack and leak, causing the all too common P0171 and P0174 codes. Why not remove the upper intake while changing the plugs and replace the gaskets before they start leaking That way you save yourself the trouble of dealing with those codes at all.

When I worked on mine, I don't see how it is even possible to replace the plugs without removing the UIM. Maybe a '04 is different, but on mine, its not the cowl that in the way, its the manifold. How do you get a socket, and extension, and a ratchet down through the plug well when there is a manifold in the way? Theres a coil pack in the way too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Dont know about the torque sequence but the ft pds. is 7to14. UMI torque sequence is top middle 1-bottom middle 2 top right3 bot r 4 topleft 5 bottom left 6
Thanks Machine. I'm gonna do it tonight after my evening bowhunting adventure. If I don't rip any gaskets I should be cool.

I'm no expert but from looking at my 04, there is no way to get at the rear plugs without removing the U.I.M.. I think I've read that the U.I.M. extends further back on the 04's and later.

You guys think I should run up to the store and grab a PCV Valve while I'm at it?
 

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Might as well replace PCV, but on the 04-05 Tec, PCV is super easy to get at without removing anything..... Driver side rear cam cover sticking out horizontally.
 

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my 2000 engine i replaced the plugs no problem without removing the intake or cowling. my 04 engine though you must remove the intake manifold in order to get the coils off. the rubber used for the gaskets on the oval port (2000 and newer) duratecs are a very supple rubber that do not crack often just be sure to inspect them. this engine does not have coolant running through the lower intake manifold like many engines do so the gaskets do not fail often. when i did the intake gaskets on my 2000 engine i really should not have wasted my money they still looked new after 110k miles... also do not forget to disconnect the egr tube from the intake. you may want to replace this gasket. i have done it both ways without a problem using the old gasket or a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Help!

Well, everything was going perfect until I went to lift the manifold off. I didn't see the PCV hose down there!!!!! How the heck do you get to those spring clamps!!! Been trying to get different pliers in there for about an hour. Should I take the hose off from the manifold or at the PCV Valve? Can I get the PCV valve to come out without removing it from the hose?:angry::angry:

Other then this little snagg, it's really easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Got her done! Was able to get a pair of pliers on the front PCV clamp and slide the hose off by lifting the manifold to a certain angle. The spring clamps are attached to the hose and do not slide up or down!!! Took me about 3 hrs cuz of the PCV hose. I would say it's about a 2 hour job if you take your time. The spark plugs are the easy part.

Here are a few tips that might help anyone trying this job:

1. After you get the PCV hose off, the manifold can be moved to the side. No need to take it out of the engine bay.
2. I would pick up a new EGR gasket. I re-used mine but I should not have.
3. Make sure to have a chunk of fuel line to get the plugs in and out.
4. Pretty easy to remember where everything goes but taking a few pics can't hurt.
5. If your due, have a new PCV valve ready to go. Looks like it would be a pain with the manifold on.

Thanks to everyone who helped me out!!!!
 

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Hi fishx65

What plugs did you replace it with? I've change mine recently with some Bosch +2 Platinum and does not idle well when cold. There is some engine hesitation during acceleration but goes away after the engine become warm. I'm guess it's the plugs but it could be other problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hi fishx65

What plugs did you replace it with? I've change mine recently with some Bosch +2 Platinum and does not idle well when cold. There is some engine hesitation during acceleration but goes away after the engine become warm. I'm guess it's the plugs but it could be other problems.
I went with the factory platinum plugs (Motorcraft AGSF 32WM). The old ones had 90,000 miles on them and looked to be in really good shape besides the gap being a little large. I probably could have cleaned, regapped and screwed them back in but plugs are cheap and I'll never have to do it again. I think Ford is right-on-the-money when they say to replace them at 100,000 miles. Now lets see if I get some better MPG'S!!
 
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