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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Last Friday my 2003 SES stalled right in front of the hospital ER entrance and wouldn't start again. The car will crank and crank all day long, but will not fire. After calling a tow truck I tried one last time and it started right up. Cancelled tow truck and got home.

Yesterday the car stalled in a busy 4 way intersection and I had to push it off into the gas station before getting nailed. Same deal. Cranks and cranks strong as can be, but will not fire. I called the tow truck again and once I got it to our shop (concrete shop) I tried to start it and it fired right up.

I've searched around but frankly, there's 1000 reasons people have come up with why it could be doing this. I figured why not see what you Ford guys have to say about it. I bought myself a new fuel filter and CAS sensor, but I have yet to install them. Someone on here in another similar thread recommended changing the PCM relay. Any other words of wisdom?
 

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normally when the cps goes bad it shows signs... mostly misfires, rough idles and bad acceleration. not saying this always happens this way just 99% of the time.
when a fuel pump starts going bad it get loud, you get better mpg and it will stall and not start for a while, cool off and start right up.
start with the basics. fuel, spark and air. you can throw parts at it all day and not find the problem if you verify these simple things.
a spray bottle with a little gas is helpful. when it dowsnt want to start spray some gas into the intake. if it fires up like normal then you have a fuel issue. if it still wont fire you have a spark issue ( coil, timing ect... ) be careful not to spray to much gas into the intake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
normally when the cps goes bad it shows signs... mostly misfires, rough idles and bad acceleration. not saying this always happens this way just 99% of the time.
when a fuel pump starts going bad it get loud, you get better mpg and it will stall and not start for a while, cool off and start right up.
start with the basics. fuel, spark and air. you can throw parts at it all day and not find the problem if you verify these simple things.
a spray bottle with a little gas is helpful. when it dowsnt want to start spray some gas into the intake. if it fires up like normal then you have a fuel issue. if it still wont fire you have a spark issue ( coil, timing ect... ) be careful not to spray to much gas into the intake.
Just for kicks. How is it to change the pump on these things? Does it require dropping the tank?

At first it was starting up right after it would stall. Now its taking awhile before it will fire again.

I was hoping it was just the filter kicking up sediment, then settling after awhile.
 

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you have to drop the tank. it is possible to have a clogged filter, but that can burn out a pump, i would say its about a 3hr job on the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
you have to drop the tank. it is possible to have a clogged filter, but that can burn out a pump, i would say its about a 3hr job on the ground.
We have a lift I can use at the shop and a tranny jack to help me maneuver the tank out if that's the case.

That sucks. I was hoping it wouldn't be anything too involved considering I already have enough going on at the moment.

I suppose I'll try the new filter and throw a pump in while I'm at it. The car does have over 180k miles on it, so maybe its a tired old pump anyways. lol
 

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thats a good life span for a fuel pump. every once in a while the lines like to crack when you drop the tank. while you got it up on the lift, the rear strut upper mounts are a bad rust area. its worth a look and possible clean and coat while you got it up,
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
thats a good life span for a fuel pump. every once in a while the lines like to crack when you drop the tank. while you got it up on the lift, the rear strut upper mounts are a bad rust area. its worth a look and possible clean and coat while you got it up,
When I bought the car the first thing I did was replace the rear strut assemblies. They were completely shot.

Is this a common problem with the taurus? The fuel pump I mean.

I keep reading on and on and others have suggested a bad PCM relay, bad TPS, bad IAC, replace fuel pump/filter, stuck inertia switch (don't even know what that is), etc.

I'd just like to fix it once, rather than think I'm fixing it only to have it stall on me again.
 

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the inertia switch is the fuel cut off switch in the trunk that trips when you get into an accident. it has a handle on it normally under the carpet.
it is possible it isnt the fuel pump. that why you have to narrow it down. you can check the fuel pressure at the rail and see if it is in specs. if it isnt the change the filter and try again. if still not fixed the its the pump being lazy.
i normally see bad fuel pumps between 120 and 220 thousand miles. not saying i havent replaced them at 50 thousand because someone only likes to put in 2 gallons of fuel at a time and see how far they can go before it runs out,
testing for power after the inertia switch will tell you if the pump is getting power and if the switch isnt tripped. if you dont have power after but before the switch then the switch is the issue.
with more info of the symptoms the better we can help. with just a stall and random start its hard to say what the problem is. it very well can be a bad pcm or sensor. but before you throw parts at it narrow it down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
the inertia switch is the fuel cut off switch in the trunk that trips when you get into an accident. it has a handle on it normally under the carpet.
it is possible it isnt the fuel pump. that why you have to narrow it down. you can check the fuel pressure at the rail and see if it is in specs. if it isnt the change the filter and try again. if still not fixed the its the pump being lazy.
i normally see bad fuel pumps between 120 and 220 thousand miles. not saying i havent replaced them at 50 thousand because someone only likes to put in 2 gallons of fuel at a time and see how far they can go before it runs out,
testing for power after the inertia switch will tell you if the pump is getting power and if the switch isnt tripped. if you dont have power after but before the switch then the switch is the issue.
with more info of the symptoms the better we can help. with just a stall and random start its hard to say what the problem is. it very well can be a bad pcm or sensor. but before you throw parts at it narrow it down.
Well this first started happening awhile back. It was only when I was letting the car idle for awhile to let the AC cool it down before I drove home. I'd go back to the car and it would be shut off, but it usually started right back up no problem. Then it did it a few more times and it was harder to start. Now in the past week its shut off in traffic twice.

When I go to the shop tomorrow I'll verify whether or not I can hear the fuel pump or not. I guess I'll change the filter and go from there. I don't mind doing whatever needs to be done, I just hate chasing problems.

Thanks for the help man! Its greatly appreciated! :D
 

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Does it idle rough? Can be a vacuum leak.

Got a Check Engine Light? If so, go to AutoZone and have them check the codes. P0171 and P0174 indicate a vacuum leak.

Check the elbow connector at the back of the intake where all the plastic lines get their vacuum source. Also, check the rubber PCV elbow under the intake manifold near the throttle body. Both of those disintegrated on my car. Also, I've heard that that black plastic rectangular vacuum box on the firewall can fail, so listen for leaks here, too.

Good luck.
 
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