Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone.

I decided to start a new thread because the search I did only yielded one really good result, and that was from 2005...so I figured that a new thread might be a good thing.

I have a 2003 3.0 with the U in the VIN. I have been battling a hesitation problem for a few weeks now at high RPM. New plugs, wires, fuel filter didn't do anything. A coil pack didn't do anything.

Finally the other day it threw a code. Bad catalyst. The guy at the auto parts store said he thought it meant it needed a new O2 sensore. Took it to my mechanic and he says it's a bad catalytic converter on bank 2.

He told me I have two options...buy a direct bolt in replacement or go with a universal one that he would fit in by cutting the old one out and welding the new one in.

The difference in price here is pretty major. I found direct bolt in kits start at about $350...the universal replacement that should fit in there is $80. He told me the labor would be about the same no matter which one I did, so that cancels itself out.

For the difference in price, will I see any improvements by going with the direct bolt in over the universal one??

I don't drive the car for performance...I just drive it to get to work and get groceries. So if it doesn't accelerate as well with a universal that doesn't really matter to me. I'm only looking for everyday drivability.

Thanks!
Jeff
 

·
Cake monster
Joined
·
1,584 Posts
Hi everyone.

I decided to start a new thread because the search I did only yielded one really good result, and that was from 2005...so I figured that a new thread might be a good thing.

I have a 2003 3.0 with the U in the VIN. I have been battling a hesitation problem for a few weeks now at high RPM. New plugs, wires, fuel filter didn't do anything. A coil pack didn't do anything.

Finally the other day it threw a code. Bad catalyst. The guy at the auto parts store said he thought it meant it needed a new O2 sensore. Took it to my mechanic and he says it's a bad catalytic converter on bank 2.

He told me I have two options...buy a direct bolt in replacement or go with a universal one that he would fit in by cutting the old one out and welding the new one in.

The difference in price here is pretty major. I found direct bolt in kits start at about $350...the universal replacement that should fit in there is $80. He told me the labor would be about the same no matter which one I did, so that cancels itself out.

For the difference in price, will I see any improvements by going with the direct bolt in over the universal one??

I don't drive the car for performance...I just drive it to get to work and get groceries. So if it doesn't accelerate as well with a universal that doesn't really matter to me. I'm only looking for everyday drivability.

Thanks!
Jeff
I was under the impression that the OE ones lasted longer than the universals. I could be wrong though. I would be interested to know the right answer too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,365 Posts
If the universal is made by Walker, and the shape is OK, then it should be fine. Walker is the OEM supplier for most manufacturers, I would stay away from other brands of converters.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Alright.

I will look into those brands and see if I can find one that fits.

That one in the Ebay auction says it's not for my car, it's for an older Taurus. Not sure if that would make a difference??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I think I've figured out why all of them that I'm looking at seem so expensive for just a single catalytic converter.

I have the "U" engine, and it appears that all of them that are made for it have BOTH the bank one and bank 2 catalytic converters because they are formed into one single piece.

So, short of having the bad one cut out and a new universal one welded in, it appears that my only option is to actually replace BOTH of the front cats??

Here's a picture of what I believe is a "U" engine's front cat assembly...
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,365 Posts
Alright.

I will look into those brands and see if I can find one that fits.

That one in the Ebay auction says it's not for my car, it's for an older Taurus. Not sure if that would make a difference??
I screwed up, looked up the wrong year. :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I screwed up, looked up the wrong year. :(
No worries.

I'm thinking that my options are going to be much more limited than initially thought due to the design of the front catalytic system.

Is Bank 2 the cat that's up by the radiator, or the one that's back by the firewall?? If it's the one by the radiator, it's possible to get one welded in I would think...if it's the one by the firewall, I don't think I would have much choice other than to just buy the whole unit...
 

·
Devoted Member
Joined
·
2,426 Posts
A 2003? Make sure you're not still warrantied by Ford before you go replacing expensive parts....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
A 2003? Make sure you're not still warrantied by Ford before you go replacing expensive parts....

Yah, I'm seeing that there's an 8 year warranty on emissions parts. Wondering how I go about seeing if the warranty is still good??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
833 Posts
8 year or 80,000 miles. The welded cats can rot out faster if the weld job isn't perfect. How the hell would the labor be the same? That makes no sense, remove and replace versus remove, cut, weld and replace. My recommendation if you're not going to replace them yourself, buy a new ypipe, get the old cats back after the new ones are put in, sell the old ones for scrap. You should be able to get 100-120 bucks for the old ypipe. Unless they're covered under the federal warranty of 8/80, then you don't buy them, you dont get them back. Just because it's an 03 doesn't mean it's less than 8 years, the car may have been built in 02. You need to find the warranty start date. Only the dealer can tell you that (or someone with access to fmcdealer.com) My aftercat is rattling, flex pipe leaking, but my 05 won't be covered b.c im over 92k. So I'm having a custom exhaust shop fit a pipe in the place of the cat. Then I have to replace it after they fit it, they won't let it leave thier shop minus the cat. They're charging me 120, then I'll sell the cat for scrap for 60.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Date on the sticker inside the door says "05/03."

I'm going to take it to the dealership on my day off and ask them to check the VIN for me.

Any particular stuff I should take with me if it is in fact still under warranty??
 

·
Devoted Member
Joined
·
2,426 Posts
Date on the sticker inside the door says "05/03."

I'm going to take it to the dealership on my day off and ask them to check the VIN for me.

Any particular stuff I should take with me if it is in fact still under warranty??
Just proof you own the car. They're only gonna schedule you for later, if you're covered.
Tell them not to wreck your O2 sensors if they end up changing it. They'll try to get $ome $$$ out of you $omehow...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hi everyone. I know this thread is a little bit older now, but wanted to let you guys know that today the Ford dealership here in town let me know that the catalytic converter on the car will be covered by the warranty.

I took it in last Thursday and they scheduled me to have it looked at today. They called me about three hours after I dropped it off to let me know that there isn't anything wrong with it other than the cat, and that since it's still under warranty they'll be replacing it for no charge.

They were really friendly and helpful.

Thank you all for your help with this matter. I would have never thought that the catalytic converter would still have been under warranty if it weren't for you guys and gals!!

Thanks!
Jeff
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top