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2002 Taurus LX 3.0L Vin U

Daughter's car. Started bogging on her, then wouldn't accelerate, and finally stalled. She took it to a friend, who is a mechanic. He tested fuel pressure, pump, etc., and changed fuel filter. Found a couple of vacuum leaks (PCV and Air Intake Hose) and wrapped electrical tape around them. Told her it needed a tune up and a new IAC. Several codes came up after he worked on it: P1150, P0155, P0303, PO316. Sat for a couple of weeks before I could begin working on it.

I began working on it today. Wouldn't start. Replaced battery, which tested bad. Started, but idled rough and stalled.

Replaced plugs and wires, EGR valve, IAC valve, PCV valve and hose, cleaned MAF sensor and throttle body, and replaced air filter.

Starts up nice, runs great for a minute, then begins to bog until it finally stalls. Starts right back up again and does the same thing. Can't drive it, as it stalls when you accelerate. Fuel pump seems to be running okay, has new fuel filter, and all the new stuff I replaced, but something is causing it to stall after running for a minute or so.

Any clues?
 

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2002 Taurus LX 3.0L Vin U

Daughter's car. Started bogging on her, then wouldn't accelerate, and finally stalled. She took it to a friend, who is a mechanic. He tested fuel pressure, pump, etc., and changed fuel filter. Found a couple of vacuum leaks (PCV and Air Intake Hose) and wrapped electrical tape around them. Told her it needed a tune up and a new IAC. Several codes came up after he worked on it: P1150, P0155, P0303, PO316. Sat for a couple of weeks before I could begin working on it.

I began working on it today. Wouldn't start. Replaced battery, which tested bad. Started, but idled rough and stalled.

Replaced plugs and wires, EGR valve, IAC valve, PCV valve and hose, cleaned MAF sensor and throttle body, and replaced air filter.

Starts up nice, runs great for a minute, then begins to bog until it finally stalls. Starts right back up again and does the same thing. Can't drive it, as it stalls when you accelerate. Fuel pump seems to be running okay, has new fuel filter, and all the new stuff I replaced, but something is causing it to stall after running for a minute or so.

Any clues?
Really sounds like fuel pump/FPM module. The measured fuel pressure is output at the OBDII and can be read.

-chart-
 

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^^^^^ +1

Just because the pump runs doesnt mean it is producing sufficient pressure to run the engine. Check the fuel pressure s Chart mentioned.

Vac lines fixed with electrical tape????? Come on..... I have heard of half assed repairs before, but that is ridiculous. All modern cars are VERY sensitive to even small vacuum leaks. Fix the vac leaks properly.
 
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Okay, so I finally got around to working on this car again. Changed the fuel pump and filter, since the fuel pressure was low. Didn't do the trick. Car still starts, runs for a minute, then starts bogging and dies. Catalytic converter? What? Ugh!

Also, just to clarify, the electrical tape was not me! :)
 

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Have you tested the alternator? It takes about ten minutes to remove and have tested at a parts store. Or at least check you voltage while running. Strange to have a dead battery and all this stuff happening also. Long shot but it rules it out.

Will the car die even with the throttle slightly open, say 2000 rpm?
 

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Have you tested the alternator? It takes about ten minutes to remove and have tested at a parts store. Or at least check you voltage while running. Strange to have a dead battery and all this stuff happening also. Long shot but it rules it out.

Will the car die even with the throttle slightly open, say 2000 rpm?
I haven't had the alternator tested, but it didn't come up with any of the pre-work codes and the car doesn't act like it's a problem. I can keep the car running as long as I want, but it runs rough and has no acceleration. What leads me to thinking about the catalytic converter is that it acts like it's getting choked out and it threw out P1150 and P0155 codes prior to work, among others.
 

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Unplug the MAF and turn it on to see if it stays running. I know you said you cleaned the MAF, but if it's defective and still plugged in it doesn't matter if it's clean or not. Unplugging it will rule out the MAF.
 

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I haven't had the alternator tested, but it didn't come up with any of the pre-work codes and the car doesn't act like it's a problem. I can keep the car running as long as I want, but it runs rough and has no acceleration. What leads me to thinking about the catalytic converter is that it acts like it's getting choked out and it threw out P1150 and P0155 codes prior to work, among others.
The alternator was an outside chance. I would have thought that a plugged cat would let you idle but not accelerate or run at speed. You can always disconnect the third cat easy and see if it acts differently. I think you can pull the third O2 sensor to relieve pressure. I believe they connect a pressure gauge to that connection to officially test the back pressure of that cat. I don't know what the pressure should be.

In my manual
HF11 CHECK FOR EXCESSIVE EXHAUST BACK PRESSURE WITH EXHAUST BACK PRESSURE TOOL

  • Note: Typical exhaust back pressure, when measured near the exhaust manifold and at normal engine operating temperature, should not exceed 20.7 kPa (3 psi) at idle and 55.2 kPa (8 psi) at wide open throttle (WOT) under load.
 

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I'm just shooting in the dark here. My bias towards blaming something for a poor running 3.0 Vulcan is the coil pack. Replace it... Problems solved.
 

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2002 Taurus LX 3.0L Vin U

Daughter's car. Started bogging on her, then wouldn't accelerate, and finally stalled. She took it to a friend, who is a mechanic. He tested fuel pressure, pump, etc., and changed fuel filter. Found a couple of vacuum leaks (PCV and Air Intake Hose) and wrapped electrical tape around them. Told her it needed a tune up and a new IAC. Several codes came up after he worked on it: P1150, P0155, P0303, PO316. Sat for a couple of weeks before I could begin working on it.

I began working on it today. Wouldn't start. Replaced battery, which tested bad. Started, but idled rough and stalled.

Replaced plugs and wires, EGR valve, IAC valve, PCV valve and hose, cleaned MAF sensor and throttle body, and replaced air filter.

Starts up nice, runs great for a minute, then begins to bog until it finally stalls. Starts right back up again and does the same thing. Can't drive it, as it stalls when you accelerate. Fuel pump seems to be running okay, has new fuel filter, and all the new stuff I replaced, but something is causing it to stall after running for a minute or so.

Any clues?
Check fuel pressure. OBD II will tell.
My '03 would start and run about long enough to get out of the drive, maybe a few feet before it bogged down and finally quit. But I had a fuel code but I do not remember what it was. No light, just a stored code.

New pump and all is well.

-chart-
 

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Just out of curiosity and because I cant stand it when the person never tells what was the actual cause of their problem. Did you ever figure out why your daughters car kept stalling? Im having close to the same issue with my 06 Taurus only it will run as long as i have one foot on the brake and one on the accelerator...by the way my plugs and wires and coil pack have all been changed! Just fyi for the guy who said Replace it. Problems solved...not that easy fella!
 

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Just out of curiosity and because I cant stand it when the person never tells what was the actual cause of their problem. Did you ever figure out why your daughters car kept stalling? Im having close to the same issue with my 06 Taurus only it will run as long as i have one foot on the brake and one on the accelerator...by the way my plugs and wires and coil pack have all been changed! Just fyi for the guy who said Replace it. Problems solved...not that easy fella!
Have you ever figured out problem ? I have replace plugs,wires, coil pack,new battery, fuel filter ,MaF ,IAC , ran all codes and only thing that came up was MAF. Starts for a second then shuts off.
 

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Inertia switch, not nurser switch.

Had the inertia switch intermittently fail about 20 years ago on my 88 Tbird Turbo coupe. Engine would randomly die for no apparent reason. It was a real PITA to diagnose. To make a long story short, I ran a test light from the inertia switch terminals to into the passenger compartment where I could see the light. Went for a drive. When engine died, light went on, confirming inertia switch opening intermittently. Replaced the inertia switch, and no engine random suhtoff issues for the last 110K miles.
 
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