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Hi Everyone... This is my first post...hey, I'm using pics too! I want to introduce you to my 2002 Sable, 140K miles, 3.0 Vulcan. Mostly original...heck, it has the original drive belt too. I drive this daily 105 miles round trip...averages 30.4 mpg. Engine runs flawless...transmission chirps shifting into 2nd...but I feather the accelerator during that shift.

I want to share my recent front strut replacement. I broke the drivers' front spring...interestingly my ride height was not affected at all. It made an awful vibration noise which, I thought at first, was a bad wheel bearing.

When I pulled the front wheel this is what I saw! Shouldn't be hard to spot!




I shopped around and found the Monroe Quick Strut on sale for $89 each. I watched a lot of Youtube videos and followed the advice of many-a-TCCA members while lurking this site. I must say my strut job was super-duper easy as compared to some of the horror stories I have heard. EVERY nut and bolt came off without incident. This includes the end-link, cinch bolt...TBH I pushed the cinch bolt out with my finger...Came right out! I did have to run-out the 18mm sub frame bolts for extra clearance to install the new struts. They were about 1.5 inches longer. But, again, lowering the sub frame is no big deal. Do not be scared away by this if you are on the fence of doing this job DIY.

Here are the old and new side by side. The Quick Strut was pretty neat. I hope they last longer than the 1 year warranty. The Lifetime Struts were $100 more... For that difference, I will roll the dice and go with the cheaper ones.



I don't mean to brag but I had this entire job completed in less than 2 hours. I took the day off work because I budgeted for an entire day to complete. I was done well before noon and COULD have gone into work...but...true to my work ethic...I stayed at home and lay on the couch basking in my job well done! This car has spent its life in the garage so that could have helped with the good condition of the bolts etc. This was my wife's car for 11 years and not until last year have I taken it over as my work car. Fear not, I bought the Wife a 40k mile 2007 Taurus!

Here is the completed job. Not bad.



I will be replacing the front brakes this weekend...and replacing a sway-bar end link. It has been clunking while hitting small bumps. I will let you know how it goes.

I want to thank all of you for this site and, while you may not know it, you probably played a roll in me getting my Mercury back on the road. I love this car...it has to be the most comfortable ride I have ever had...including my 1978 Tbird.

Thanks!
 

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Great job. It looks like you bought the econo quick strut vs the Monroe quick struts. They may ride a little different that the original. 30 mpg is pretty good my 2006 does about 26.8 mpg average.
 

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Yes - the blue paint gives it away. I think those are the cheaper ones.

Great job in doing the install so quickly - took me way longer than that the first time I did it.

I hope you have better luck then I have had with Monroes's Quick Struts series.
 

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joerules, IIRC, there was a recall on the front strut springs, mine broke on my 2000 right in my driveway and they towed it to the dealership and replaced both struts at no cost to me. Take your receipts and you may get refunded for the $$$, they may even replace the other strut for you.
 

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Unfortunately 2002-2003 models are SOL, not included on the recall which is a total load of manure. They use the same spring, same strut and fail the same.
 

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Nice job! :)

Took me a lot longer than 2 hours to replace the struts on mine thanks to the sway bar links...and I still have to replace one existing sway bar, which I'll have to cut off at the bottom nut with a dremel :angry:

140k on the existing drivebelt...what state is it in? You should think about replacing it.
 

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Thanks for the info and pictures!

Interesting that you had to drop the subframe, I don't recall hear that before on a front strut change. Perhaps the 'cheap' struts were longer for multiple applications?

Wonder if this is the case for other brand struts?

Thanks again. ;)
 

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Thanks for the info and pictures!

Interesting that you had to drop the subframe, I don't recall hear that before on a front strut change. Perhaps the 'cheap' struts were longer for multiple applications?

Wonder if this is the case for other brand struts?

Thanks again. ;)
I have done 2 cars last summer. Drop the sub frame is the way to go. Good time to check the bolts. If rusty, replace them. I replaced 2 of mine, really bad rusty. Sooner or later most of these old cars will need the sub dropped. A/C, struts, BJ and such. One you have done it, real easy to do.

See pic, got my bolt out JUST IN TIME!. Got replacelment at the JY, hand full for $1.

-chart-
 

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I have done 2 cars last summer. Drop the sub frame is the way to go. Good time to check the bolts. If rusty, replace them. I replaced 2 of mine, really bad rusty. Sooner or later most of these old cars will need the sub dropped. A/C, struts, BJ and such. One you have done it, real easy to do.

See pic, got my bolt out JUST IN TIME!. Got replacelment at the JY, hand full for $1.

-chart-
Seems odd you have to drop the sub frame for strut replacement but guess I'll find out before long. ;) Just an extra step I'd rather avoid. :D Have done it on a Contour and that's a story in itself!

Like you said tho' good time to check the bolts.

How much extra stuff has to be removed/loosened to drop the 1.5"?
 

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That's why I'm paying someone to change the front struts on mine. ;)
 

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That's why I'm paying someone to change the front struts on mine. ;)
Naa, I don't mind a challenge that is at least possible.

However I just paid the dealership to change a waterpump hose since I had a bad feeling there would be problems getting the correct part after I called them and they weren't sure themselves. Ends up it took a day longer since THEY got the wrong part and had to deal with it.

Waterpump hose sounds simple until you look at the clamp locations and the dealer guesses at the correct replacement part.

I don't mind a challenge, I just hate a hassle! ;)
 

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Nice job! I spent a lot longer than 2 hours. But, I did struts, springs, rotors, and pads. So, a lot time spent taking the old struts & springs apart.
 

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You have to drop the subframe because the LCA won't go down far enough to get the end of the strut out of the knuckle.
Hassle? Yes.
Hard? Not really.

Requires a jack, jack stands, some patience, the right size socket (21mm I think?), and in my case a broken torque wrench that served as a fantastic way of loosening the nuts.

First time around I was afraid to do it thinking if I were to loosen them too much the frame could shift or something. Actually I still don't know if that's true or not.
Found out you can take those bolts off a lot further than you might realize.

Can anyone advise what kind of trouble it would cause if you pulled both bolts all the way out? IF any. Looks like chartmaker took his out without issues.
 

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You have to drop the subframe because the LCA won't go down far enough to get the end of the strut out of the knuckle.
Hassle? Yes.
Hard? Not really.

Requires a jack, jack stands, some patience, the right size socket (21mm I think?), and in my case a broken torque wrench that served as a fantastic way of loosening the nuts.

First time around I was afraid to do it thinking if I were to loosen them too much the frame could shift or something. Actually I still don't know if that's true or not.
Found out you can take those bolts off a lot further than you might realize.

Can anyone advise what kind of trouble it would cause if you pulled both bolts all the way out? IF any. Looks like chartmaker took his out without issues.
I took them out to check for rust, one at a time. Put a jack under the sub when dropping for removing the knuckle and for struts. Drop about 1.5" by guess.

U can take one out at a time for rust check with no jacking. That corner will drop down maybe inch or a bit more. I got a shock when I saw my bolts in front. That is all that is holding my engine/tranny in the car.

Others have posted dropping the pas side to do A/C clutch and for alt on DOHC engines. Good process tool to have in your bag of tricks. ;)

-chart-
 
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