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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,


I recently removed the glove box and stereo to take a look at an AC problem and found a disconnected part that I can't tell how to fit (I will try to attach a pic)


The air worked ok (not great) when I got the car, then quit getting cold. Took it to a shop and they said compressor was good, but the environmental sensor (?) needed to be replaced. They replaced it and it worked ok for a bit, but to get it to cold, I would frequently have to arrow up to 90 degrees then back to 60 several times before it would blow cold air. When it finally wouldn't ever get back to cold I took it back, and they said the blend door actuator checked out, but the blend door itself was getting stuck. Told me 5-6 hours of labor just to come up with an estimate to fix it! (car has 240,000 miles,so not looking to invest a lot)


When I got in there and took the actuator off, I was able to manually move the door and voila - back to cold air (ish) I bought a replacement actuator, but I plan on leaving the door in the current position since it's about to get really hot around here.



My 2 questions:

- what is this bracket looking part that I'll try to attach a picture of and
- is there a way to manually set it to recirculate instead of vent? I hit the Max AC button, but it doesn't seem to change noise from when it's not on Max AC. I'd like to visually confirm. I was getting frequent "burned oil/fluids" smell in the cabin the first week or so, but much less frequently now.


Thanks for any pointers. I've learned a ton from lurking here previously.
Joe
 

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check out this video....i repaired mine when i got my Taurus and i ended up leaving the shield part off when i put back together. it seemed to be getting in the way.

 

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Discussion Starter #4
That was a suspicion at first, but I couldn't find any way to connect it to the "arm" that comes out from the hole the actuator fits it. I'll keep looking.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the video - that's definitely the part, and I can see where it connects at the lower end. I didn't take that cover off, so I'n not sure how it got disconnected. Is there a way to figure out what that secondary door controls? I guess I'll open things back up and manually move it and see what it does. If I can get it even cooler I should be set for the Texas summer!
 

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i didnt even know there was a secondary door. I thought it just controlled the one door when you switched from hot to cold. Perhaps someone else can help on that one.
 

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There are three dampers that change position when you go from hot to cold. there is a main one that is driven by the actuator, the upper most damper that is driven by the main damper and the lower damper that is moved by the link in your picture. The two auxiliary dampers help isolate the heater core to help make AC colder.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
There are three dampers that change position when you go from hot to cold. there is a main one that is driven by the actuator, the upper most damper that is driven by the main damper and the lower damper that is moved by the link in your picture. The two auxiliary dampers help isolate the heater core to help make AC colder.
Thanks for the reply. I'm pretty sure I'm not smart enough to figure out that diagram, but that helps to know there are 3. I manually moved the first, and I can see the 3rd in the video, so I just have to figure out the 2nd. I noticed the diagram says manual control - is it the same for the automatic control for these parts?

Thanks again,
Joe
 

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Auto and manual are the same except for the damper actuator. Damper 6 is internally connected to damper 16. 16 is driven by the actuator and 18 is driven by the link in your picture.
 

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Auto and manual are the same except for the damper actuator. Damper 6 is internally connected to damper 16. !6 is driven by the actuator and 18 is driven by the link in your picture.
Oh - I was looking for an external connection to 16. I think I'm getting it. I will open it back up tomorrow or Friday when it stops raining and post back.
 

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Always a good idea to run a self-test/reset on the climate control system once you have all the new parts in. Lost my blend door a few years back and it still didn't work right until I ran the procedure. Here is one post that included most if not all of the TSB text. https://www.taurusclub.com/forum/82-maintenance-repair/129647-climate-control-only-blowing-hot-air.html
To enter the self-test, press the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then press the AUTO button within two seconds . The display will show a dashed line in the center of the climate control display window of the Integrated Control Panel (ICP) .

1. The test may run as long as 30 seconds . Record all DTCs displayed. The self-test is completed when 888 appears in the center of the climate control display window of the ICP.

2. If any DTCs appear during the self-test, post the # and I have the chart of what is wrong somewhere.

3. To exit the self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs, press the "-" (COOLER) side of the TEMP button. The RCC module will exit the self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs.

To exit the self-test and clear all DTCs, press the FRONT DEFROST button. All RCC module DTCs will be cleared. Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned off). Intermittent DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent condition occurs. If you exit the self test this way, it will recalibrate the blend door.


Simple step by step. Key is the last sentence.


The recalibration runs the blend door motor full hot, and full cold and establishes the limits in memory so it does not max out to the physical limits and bind the gears. If the battery runs down, it can cause the EATC to loose its memory and quit. Happened to me. No need to recalibrate unless the battery has been run down or the blend door motor replaced. Then it is important.


-chart-
 

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I took a look at it again yesterday. When I ran it on full cold (Max A/C, temp set to 60 degrees), the air was registering around 63 degrees (it was 85 outside). I had the glove box and stereo back out, so I manually closed the bottom (3rd) damper and that seemed to give me about another 4-5 degrees.



Thanks for posted the self test info - especially the proper way to exit. I had tried the test before but not sure I exited correctly. I received the blend door but had to send it back for a replacement. I think I'm just going to leave the dampers manually closed for the summer and then tackle the blend door replacement in the fall. I was worried about getting the door to line up with the hole behind it because I didn't know about the recalibration step. Also, since I'm coming from front/below I don't think I'm going to be able to fit that bracket on. I can't even see the post it's supposed to fit over, much less how it connects. Looks like it will take a dash removal which is beyond my skills. Thanks to all who replied - I have cold (ish) air and have learned a lot.


I'm still more convinced that the recirculated air system doesn't work (although it says Max Air if i push Max Air). What temperature should I expect in a perfect system? I'm worried that my 27 degree difference will translate to 80 degrees when August hits. I don't know if this helps - I had the car in park with the Max AC on yesterday with all windows closed. A guy about 10 feet away fired up a cigarette and I could smell it in the cabin almost immediately - it seems like if the cabin air re-circulation was working I wouldn't have smelled it(?)
 
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