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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, great forum. Just wanted to get some opinions on my 204K mile Taurus. It's got the 12 valve engine and I bought it around 130K miles. I never changed the trans fluid due to all the "you might ruin the trans arguments". Over the last 30K or so miles it's been starting to shift funny at times. It will occasionally bang after going around a corner and accelerating and also shift hard on half-pedal acceleration.

About 6 weeks ago we went to Gettysburg and had a lower radiator hose blow. I put what water I had in the trunk in the radiator so it did run hotter than normal until I could fix the hose. At that point we continued on and came across some pretty decent hills and the trans light came on. We smelled smoke and I saw that the trans had spit out a decent amount of fluid that hit the exhaust. I filled the trans back up (about 2 quarts) and continued on. When we got back to Michigan I pulled the codes and I believe it was a torque converter code but I don't have the exact one handy. Once cleared it came back on once on a hot day about halfway through a 50 mile trip. Now the last 4-5 days in the morning it takes about 4-5 seconds for 1st gear to engage and then after that it's fine. (The fluid level is fine hot).

At this point with the high mileage I'm willing to try a 12 quart trans fluid/flush. What I was thinking about doing was the one bucket-to the other bucket trans fluid change at the trans cooler up front. After that with the new fluid in it I'd then drop the pan and change the fluid and filter and add the 24 ounce bottle of Lucas trans additive.

Any ideas or suggestions? I might even save the old fluid to toss back in if the new stuff acts too weird.

Thanks for the help.

DH
 

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I dont think a fluid change will help. The trans is mechanically on its last legs and needs to be rebuilt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Trans woes.

Well, for the $$, I'm going to try to change out the fluid and filter. If $40-$50 "fixes" it it's cheaper that a trans replacement/rebuild. I'd never put the $1500-$2000+ involved in a rebuild into a 9 year old car with 205K who's value is lucky to be $1500-$2000.

DH

P.S. Is there a thread here on "at home" replacement of a trans for a 2001 Taurus like I have? Is it possible at home without a hoist?
 

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P.S. Is there a thread here on "at home" replacement of a trans for a 2001 Taurus like I have? Is it possible at home without a hoist?
http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/82-...1994-gl-vulcan-axod-removal-installation.html

^^ Is a good thread. It's totally possible without a hoist. I did my 2001 AX4S recently and aside from a few missteps that were totally my fault, it is a pretty straightforward and not difficult job. Aside from the threads, guides, and proceudres offered here, here's a few tips I learned along the way that made the job a lot easier:

Loosen the hub nuts prior to lifting the car and removing the wheels.

Lower the subframe one side at a time to remove the strut/spring assemblies. Makes it a world easier and less dangerous

REMOVE THE SUBFRAME prior to dropping the tranny. Believe me, I thought I could get away with not doing it but I lost hours on that huge mistake. It is simple and more than necessary, trust me.

Have plenty of PB Blaster handy. I didn't have one stripped or immovable nut or bolt thanks to it.

Take as much time as you need to get as much fluid out as possible. And, there will be a lot more than you thought after you finally drop it, believe me.

Sand the exhaust pipe and cat converter where they slide together. I assume yours is the same as mine, and those two little buggers slide together like 4 inches and surface rust makes it really hard to wiggle them together. I sanded them prior to reinstall and it was a cinch.

This isn't a tip for ease of removal, but please make sure you have a good set of jackstands that you can trust. I had some old tube-style ones that I chose to retire in favor of a new ratchet style Hein Warner set, and for my peace of mind I am glad I did. I also replaced the ball joints and strut stabilizer bars while I was in there since it's cheap insurance. And, make a nice strong engine brace that can hold the weight of the engine (and the tranny for the time it takes to get the subframe back on and the drivetrain back on it.) I used two 4x4"s and two 4x6" and my stump pulling chain and it held for months while I gathered the funds to finish the job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Trans issues.

Wow, the thread on the driveway trans R+R is something else!! Lots of detail and great pics. I have been busy with school lately so I haven't had a chance to try to flush/drain the fluid but I will for sure next weekend. The car is getting worse I think because every morning when cold it hesitates to move the either in forward or reverse for about 5 seconds after being started. We'll see what happens!!

DH
 
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