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Discussion Starter #41
Breaking apart the enigine / tranny

Breaking apart the engine / tranny off the subframe couldn't have went much better. I would suggest removing the starter and the thin plate between the starter and the bell housing prior to dropping it out of the car (see pix) After you take the starter off there is only an 8 MM bolt holding the thin plate in place. You'll want to get that out of the way to access the 4 nuts on the fly wheel. I put a steel bar under the driverside transaxle to support that end of the transmission. I then used a loader bucket to keep tension on the engine as I worked my way around it removing motor mount bolts and bell housing bolts etc. I was able to separate the engine / trans very easily. I then put the old engine on a crate next to the replacement engine. I mounted the replacement engine on an engine stand and got to work making checks on it. The plugs and oil looked good. I flipped it upside down, removed the pan (no sludge), the waterpump (some build up there) and the timing chain cover. Next I'll get those cleaned up, put new seals on and keep moving forward!
 

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This thread inspired me to look at my local junk yard.

I found a '04 Flex with 35,000miles for $450.00 - It says Grade A.

Nice to know I have that option should the time come.

I just wish I had Steve's space and a front loader.....lol

Great Job Steve - Keep it up!
 

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Discussion Starter #44 (Edited)
ya, the redneck loader bucket method has worked out very well. This is just the wrong time of the year for me to be doing this. I'm swamped at work and on my hobby farm. My (very neglected 2004 F-150) truck demanded my attention when it started leaking coolant. I took the front right wheel off to trace the leak and discovered my brake pads were about to get into the rotor. I then HAD to do a full brake job, tire rotation, oil change and kept going with an engine degrease / detail, body scrub etc. Still gotta get that leak figured out soon and get the damn plugs changed ( that's the 3 valve per cylinder model 5.4L / nightmare to get plugs out without breaking them).
On the Taurus, I've got the oil pan off and front timing cover off. Just trying to find the time to get it put back. Then I can put that engine on the subframe and start getting it back in the car. Just need TIME!! loL.
 

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:lurk:
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Gasket Surfaces Cleaned w/ Die Grinder

Finding time to move forward on this is a real challenge right now. I found two hours last night from 9-11PM to use a borrowed die grinder and scotch bright pads to get all my gasket surfaces cleaned up. I'm very pleased with the results (especially for my first time ever doing this). I do have some pitting (not real bad) in different areas and I may put a light smearing of black engine sealer on these surfaces when I put the gaskets / new water pump / timing chain cover then oil pan back on. Here's some pix. of the cleaned surfaces and the die grinder I used to do it. I can't imagine doing this job without it.
 

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I have had good luck using silicone on both sides of the gasket on those timing covers. I use the ultra grey sealer the most of Motorcraft TA-31
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Sirtanon, Just cleaning it up, keeping it stock with this replacement engine. My goal is 500,000 miles as a daily driver. I'm gonna park my F150 and give it some much needed TLC and enjoy spending about 1/2 the money on gas per month as I am now. I'm just trying to eliminate any headaches in near future with some common problems (seal leaks) the Vulcans have before I put this replacement engine in. If I want to ever get radical, I'll stroke out the original engine sitting in my shop! LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #52
New Seals (Timing cover, water pump, oil pan)

Got the timing cover on, new water pump and oil pan tonight. TomS, I used the Grey Silicone on water pump and timing cover like you advised. Used the Black engine sealant on the 4 points required when installing the oil pan. I pretty much followed the "FordTech Machuloco" (sp?) on U-tube. I used a torque wrench, followed the bolt patterns etc. I feel pretty good about the job. I'm not anticipating any problems, will give it 24 hours before I flip the engine, fill with oil and watch for leaks. I cleaned up the "Harmonic Balancer"(Ford Tech called it something else??) with the die grinder and sprayed it with black rustolium. Letting it dry tonight.

I tore my left bicep tendon off my lower arm bone on May 27th. Been working like that since. Dr. said surgery Monday to repair it. I really want to have this thing running by then (not sure that will happen), because I'll be out of service totally with my left arm for 8 weeks (from what Dr. says). My minds eye, has me taking road trips with this Taurus while I'm off work, We'll see.....

Question: The starter plate (see picture) has some foam type material missing. Is that a big deal? If so what's the best way to replace it on short notice. I don't have time to order it from Rock Auto if it's even available.
 

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I wouldn't bother with the trim/foam on the inspection plate/starter shield. Slap that sucker on and go.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Bull Geek, another question. The seals I got from Rock Auto came with a metal sleeve in the crank seal package. The sleeve looks like it fits right over the crank. Nothing like this came off the car. What's it for, do I need it?
 

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Bull Geek, another question. The seals I got from Rock Auto came with a metal sleeve in the crank seal package. The sleeve looks like it fits right over the crank. Nothing like this came off the car. What's it for, do I need it?
That sleeve is to slide on the damper seal area it the oil seal cut a groove in the sealing surface. If you slide your fingernail on the damper seal surface and you feel it the you should install it. You slip it on the seal surface after you put super glue on it
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Thanks!
Next question:
The donor motor I'm putting in came out of an identical car as what it's going into (2001 SES Vulcan U code). The new motor's wiring harness is in better shape than mine off the original motor. CAN I JUST KEEP THE WIRING HARNESS ON THE MOTOR I'm PUTTING IN OR DO I HAVE TO SWAP IT OUT??
 

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Thanks!
Next question:
The donor motor I'm putting in came out of an identical car as what it's going into (2001 SES Vulcan U code). The new motor's wiring harness is in better shape than mine off the original motor. CAN I JUST KEEP THE WIRING HARNESS ON THE MOTOR I'm PUTTING IN OR DO I HAVE TO SWAP IT OUT??
You can keep it. You can also keep all the sensors on the engine. The only thing I'd double check is, if you want to use the fuel injectors that came with the new engine, make sure they are the same as the ones on the old engine. They should be for the same year, but there were occasions where different rates were used due to supply issues during production. Your PCM is calibrated to the injectors it came with, so if they aren't the same, the old ones will need to be swapped. If they are the same though, you're good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
thanks! got the new motor hooked up to tranny on subframe, new plugs and oil put in, gonna start hooking all the wiring up then now!
 

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^Agreeing with M.S. leave it if it's good. You are making great progress. Good catch on fuel injectors.
 
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