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I'm damn near ready to just take this thing to the shop and have them deal with it. I'll give it a shot, though. How do I flush the engine with the hoses off? Furthermore, any advice for yanking the radiator? ind you, I'm not a mechanic, I'm an IT guy, and while I can do quite a few things at home, I don't know if I'm proper ready to yank the radiator...
With the hoses off the radiator, run water at full pressure (will need a rag to seal the garden hose to the radiator hose) in each hose/

Taking the radiator out on these cars requires removing the bumper cover from the car, the lights, and separating the AC condenser (held in by clips) from the radiator.

To me, it sounds as if the radiator is blocked. However, the same thing happens when the radiator cap is not an OEM one. Check that too.
 

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Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
Can I do that degreaser thing with the radiator still in the car, or somehow make it so I can try to clear the blockage without yanking the radiator? There's gotta be some way.

edit: The tank isn't the original tank, and I don't know if it's OEM spec.
 

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Can I do that degreaser thing with the radiator still in the car, or somehow make it so I can try to clear the blockage without yanking the radiator? There's gotta be some way.

edit: The tank isn't the original tank, and I don't know if it's OEM spec.
Yes, you can get the degreaser/solution in the radiator while it is in the car, but you would have to get the lower radiator hose high enough to have it go above the radiator itself.

You don't want to have this chemical in the engine. It ruins seals and sensors.

The radiator CAP should be OEM.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Yes, you can get the degreaser/solution in the radiator while it is in the car, but you would have to get the lower radiator hose high enough to have it go above the radiator itself.

You don't want to have this chemical in the engine. It ruins seals and sensors.
Can I do that with a garden hose and just plug and extend it, or am I just gonna have to get a longer length of radiator hose?
 

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Can I do that with a garden hose and just plug and extend it, or am I just gonna have to get a longer length of radiator hose?
Yes, you can, but I would use different radiator hoses to do it because the chemical softens rubber.

If it is blocked too much, it might be easier just to replace the radiator. I doubt you would have to do that.

It sounds like the radiator cap is not pressurizing the system right, and is allowing it to boil over.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Alright, I'm thinking the radiator is blocked. The cap was never a problem until all this started, and I don't think just the cap would cause all this, for one. The system isn't taking the full 12 quarts of fluid; in fact, it's barely taking six, and even then it boils over most of it. I don't think I have a head gasket leak, because I recently changed the oil and checked all of it in a shallow pan to see if there were any signs of fluid contamination, and I couldn't find anything but used oil. It's getting old, and I'm starting to get paranoid about driving my car. It runs cool when the fluid is in it, but it boils over every time I stop moving... gah, this sucks. I may as well take it to the mechanic on Monday and have him look at it, see what he can do. There's gotta be something.
 

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If this was my car, I wouldn't even be screwing around with trying to unblock the radiator. Gone are the days when you could have a mechanic rod one out and you were good to go. They're relatively inexpensive - I'd just replace it and be done with it. I don't know what all's involved with swapping one out in a 2001 Bull, though. I did mine eight years ago for $100 and an hour of my time.
 

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If this was my car, I wouldn't even be screwing around with trying to unblock the radiator. Gone are the days when you could have a mechanic rod one out and you were good to go. They're relatively inexpensive - I'd just replace it and be done with it. I don't know what all's involved with swapping one out in a 2001 Bull, though. I did mine eight years ago for $100 and an hour of my time.
^+1, just replace it and flush out your engine.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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I agree with replacement of the radiator because you will not get the flow needed to flush properly. The 3 or 4 gallons a minute from a garden hose can easily flow through a few of the radiator core tubes.

A radiator cap will not cause loss of coolant unless it is from the boil over. A bad cap can easily cause boil over since pressure is the main reason the cooling system an go to 250 degrees F and not boil over.
 

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^ If you decide to r&r, there are write-ups on the forum somewhere. Radiator is removed from the bottom on your car.
 

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Radiator is removed from the bottom on your car.
Aha, so that's how is done... I was thinking that you need to remove the whole front.
No wonder, thermostat is on bottom too, design engineer probably was a weirdo :D
 

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^ If you decide to r&r, there are write-ups on the forum somewhere. Radiator is removed from the bottom on your car.
It is easier to pull the bumper cover and move the AC condenser and the trans cooler (the second one in front of the radiator) from the front end. Access to the radiator is much easier that way too.
 

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Alright, I'm thinking the radiator is blocked. The cap was never a problem until all this started, and I don't think just the cap would cause all this, for one. The system isn't taking the full 12 quarts of fluid; in fact, it's barely taking six, and even then it boils over most of it. I don't think I have a head gasket leak, because I recently changed the oil and checked all of it in a shallow pan to see if there were any signs of fluid contamination, and I couldn't find anything but used oil. It's getting old, and I'm starting to get paranoid about driving my car. It runs cool when the fluid is in it, but it boils over every time I stop moving... gah, this sucks. I may as well take it to the mechanic on Monday and have him look at it, see what he can do. There's gotta be something.
If it is only taking 6 quarts (1.5 gallons) when the capacity is 2.5 gallons, that can easily overheat the engine really fast.

If the radiator is all metal, by completely removing it and filling it with a thinner, it will loosen up the garbage that is in it. However, that requires a lot of waste material and time to flush it out. Usually, replacing it is suggested, they are about $200.00 for a Bull radiator at most shops.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
The hell with this, I'm just gonna get a new radiator put in. It's under $400 to get a brand new one and do a full install and service.
 

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100% is the pump. Overheating because of failing pump will damage an older thermostat too...
At least this is what happened to me. Change both.
Dumb question: Can a new pump overcool??

Been having MADDENING feelings, watching my temp gauge not get above 1/8 while driving all day. Engine feels like an oven. SOMETIMES rises to mid-way, then goes back down..

gaskets are OK
NEW Water pump, two weeks ago
NEW Thermostat, 4 days ago
gunky coolant, must flush AGAIN (I did three times its still brown)
NEW radiator
and NEW radiator cap
Seems to no longer take coolant from the tank, it used to drink it down when I didnt bleed it first..

?

95 Taurus GL 3.0 Vulcan, AX4N
 

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Wrong thermostat. My son's Tempo did that for a year, only to find out the last mouthbreather to work on it (before we bought it) had put in a 195° stat instead of a 192° OEM unit. Been working fine, ever since I replaced it.

DON'T let a parts place (Advance, AutoZone, whomever) tell you a close replacement will work. Get the OEM-specified temp thermostat, and insist upon it.
 
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