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Discussion Starter #1
My '01 Taurus with the Vulcan V6 has a problem.

Coolant has been boiling up and leaking out of the relief valve in the cap neck threads for a week or two now, and until today no change in temperature was ever seen. (I did replace coolant to the "cold fill" line when low after it had sat overnight after seeing it boil out.) Today, the temp shot up while driving, not quite to overheating but still on the very high side of the temps. When I stop and idle, the temp goes down, but if I sustain velocity, it soars again. When the coolant boiled out, it looked a bit murky but as orange as it was when I poured it in (50/50 mix, of course).

I'm thinking it's the thermostat, but I'm afraid it could also be the water pump. The only clue that makes me think water pump is a rattle when accelerating that almost sounds like a diesel's valves. There's no leakage out of the engine, oil's fine, everything's fine except for the boiling out of the reservoir and the heat issue. It has NOT overheated yet.

Any way I can try to find out which one it might be? Anything I can do to get it home safe besides calling up AAA?
 

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Has It Been That Long?
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Yeah, you being in Phoenix would exacerbate things. If it's 106 here today, you're way hotter than that.

When did you put the coolant in?

If it's been several years, I'd recommend a full coolant flush and thermostat replacement at this point. And if it hasn't been, the murkiness you describe means there's gunk in there somewhere. Heat works, right?

Don't just drain it and change it, use a bottle of Prestone Super Cleaner to really get the gunk out. You'll need to drive around for a few hours, and I'd recommend doing it early in the day so it's not super hot (that's not an antifreeze replacement)

Can you get the rattle noise by just revving the engine while in neutral/park?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah, you being in Phoenix would exacerbate things. If it's 106 here today, you're way hotter than that.

When did you put the coolant in?

If it's been several years, I'd recommend a full coolant flush and thermostat replacement at this point. And if it hasn't been, the murkiness you describe means there's gunk in there somewhere. Heat works, right?

Don't just drain it and change it, use a bottle of Prestone Super Cleaner to really get the gunk out. You'll need to drive around for a few hours, and I'd recommend doing it early in the day so it's not super hot (that's not an antifreeze replacement)

Can you get the rattle noise by just revving the engine while in neutral/park?
Radiator was replaced about a year ago. The heat works a little, like when you turn on the heat it blasts hot for a little and then fades to normal outside air. If I turn off the blower, it seems to "recharge". Haven't noticed the rattle when revving while standing still. Is there any sure-fire way to test the water pump for failure?
 

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Radiator was replaced about a year ago. The heat works a little, like when you turn on the heat it blasts hot for a little and then fades to normal outside air. If I turn off the blower, it seems to "recharge". Haven't noticed the rattle when revving while standing still. Is there any sure-fire way to test the water pump for failure?
For the water pump flow, as the engine is running, look at the smaller hose next to the radiator cap on the expansion tank (it is approx. 10 o'clock to the cap) and coolant should be freely flowing from the hose into the tank.

As far as the heater goes, it sounds as there is not enough flow through the heater core to keep it hot. The "recharge" is from the heater core warming up and as the air passes through it, it cools off too quickly.

The rattle could be a broken impeller on the water pump. The flow test should determine that. The flow should be high enough to have the coolant hit the top of the passage where the hose is connected to the tank itself.
 

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X2 on checking for flow. I didn't see any in my tank and coolant was sometimes blowing past the cap also. New pump, tank, cap, & radiator in my case . 113* will only make your problem worse.
 

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X2 on checking for flow. I didn't see any in my tank and coolant was sometimes blowing past the cap also. New pump, tank, cap, & radiator in my case . 113* will only make your problem worse.

I usually check the flow with the radiator cap off and with the engine idling, checking the one hose on the tank that comes from the intake manifold (serves as a bypass hose) and making sure coolant hits the baffle inside the top part of the tank. It should be flowing all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Okay so I checked the flow and I couldn't see anything. Also checked underneath and there wasn't anything coming out of the weep hole that I could tell. The rattling sound happens when accelerating, even while standing still. Think my water pump's done. :(
 

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100% is the pump. Overheating because of failing pump will damage an older thermostat too...
At least this is what happened to me. Change both.
 

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Okay so I checked the flow and I couldn't see anything. Also checked underneath and there wasn't anything coming out of the weep hole that I could tell. The rattling sound happens when accelerating, even while standing still. Think my water pump's done. :(
Likely a piece of an impeller that broke off.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Got a new water pump, new thermostat, couple gallons of Prestone, and some Super Flush. Anyone have any advice on the job ahead?
 

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Yup - now that you have the replacement parts, replace the parts!
 

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On my Duratec finding the thermostat was the hardest part :)
Vulcan is easier I heard. Good luck with those thumb pinchers... I mean factory hose clamps.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
On my Duratec finding the thermostat was the hardest part :)
Vulcan is easier I heard. Good luck with those thumb pinchers... I mean factory hose clamps.
Hate those things.

Okay, so I got the pulley off, and moves the alternator brace arm and the shield and the reservoir and everything and I am now overwhelmed with the enormity of the task ahead of me. To distract myself from my doubts while still being productive, I checked my air filter. Opened the container and it smelled like exhaust, and the filter looks awful. New filter is definitely in order, but why would it smell like exhaust in there?
 

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Well I suppose excess EGR flow could cause that to happen, but I would think you would have a code.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Nope, no codes. I had a misfire about two months ago due to sudden ignition cable failure but other than that nothing's come up. I'm assuming the cats are okay since I passed emissions. It just reeks of exhaust in there.

edit: This water pump job is a pain in all eight of my asses
 

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Nope, no codes. I had a misfire about two months ago due to sudden ignition cable failure but other than that nothing's come up. I'm assuming the cats are okay since I passed emissions. It just reeks of exhaust in there.

edit: This water pump job is a pain in all eight of my asses

Haha, try changing the spark plugs in a V8 SHO, then we will talk, It takes 5 hours and has almost 20 steps. But in all seriousness i would suspect either a small exhaust leak that is near enough to some part of the intake that its getting into the air filter, or excess EGR flow. Either way its not really harmful to the engine but obviously it will run better if you figure out and resolve the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Been there. Family friend has a SHO that gives him more grief than it's worth but he loves the thing to death. I wish they would have made a 4th gen SHO but I know how those Yamaha engines like to commit suicide; I had a '96 Probe that liked to kill itself every 20k miles or so. Hateful little bastard.
 
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