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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All;

Just put a semi-new battery in the car, and cranked it, all was good on Monday night.
Then, Tuesday came, and I went to work.
Cranked the car up, and it idled up like normal and then idled back down.
I took off from the house and by the time I got to my first stop.
I pressed the brake and the car acted like it wanted to jump the curb.
It did this ALL DAY LONG.

What in the world would have caused this issue to happen, with a battery going dead and being replaced?
I checked to make sure that all hoses were still connected, making sure I did not accidentally discount one while messing with the batteries over the weekend. But everything seems to be the same.

Any idea's on what I would need to check or do or change, in order to get this thing to rev back down?
Also, while driving down the road, I can remove my foot from the gas peddle, and it will stay at the same speed for quite a ways, almost like it is in cruise control.
Almost like it has a sticky peddle, as my dad used to call it in the 80s.
Like the throttle is stuck open.
I check the cables and they are fine.

Open for suggestions.
Gas prices are WAY to damn high to be playing the "I wanna go faster game" with this car.

Wayne
 

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This may solve your issue. My Taurus had a similar issue.


It probably isn't related to the battery, as the only thing that'd could even be affected by the battery would be the ECU, but I don't see that forcing the throttle open.
 

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First thing to do is get the codes from the PCM. Could be the cable issue noted above, could be a large vacuum leak, IAC stuck open, or a number of other things.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
For starters, I am not sure WHY I did not check the codes before posting this message.
So, with that said.
Here we go with ALL the codes.

P1506
I did the test of disconnecting the IAC and it DID NOT change anything. The idle did not go down or nothing.

P0171
P0174
P0304
P0305
P0306
P0136

Yep, there were 7 of them crazy damn codes.

So, I am going to assume the IAC needs to be replaced.
And once it is replaced, then I can check on the rest of the codes to see if they cleared.
Would that be the correct assumption?

Except for the
P0171
P0174

They have been here for a few weeks now.
 

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One of the most common causes of Ford P0171 and P0174 lean codes is a dirty mass airflow (MAF) sensor. ... The MAF sensor can also be contaminated by fuel vapors that back up through the intake manifold and throttle body when the engine is shut off. The vapors can leave a waxy coating on the sensor wire.
 

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Engine speed/power is managed by air flow. PCM adds fuel to match the air flow. Sources of air.
Throttle plate
PCV
IAC
Leaks.


I had PCV stuck open and it would cruise @ 30 mph on level ground. I have had IAC on another car, not Bull, and it would cruise ~40 on level ground. That one when you stopped and shut it off and restarted would return to normal. Any throttle plate blocking has un limited speed.


First you want to be sure the throttle plate is closing all the time and the cruise cable is working. Throttle plate should never be adjusted. It should be closed as much as possible without sticking.
Leaks will result in high long term fuel trims at idle.


-chart-
 

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My 2001 Sable does this to some extent, not as bad as yours. Other with our model have the same problem. I've searched everywhere online for an answer and find nothing definitive...not even a tbs on this issue. I believe this is a congenital defect on these cars and Ford wants to sweep this problem under the rug.
 

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Why would you replace the IAC????? Replacing the IAC will do nothing but make you $60+ poorer. You have pretty bad vacuum leak or stuck open PCV valve causing the high RPM and likely also causing the missfire codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks, guys.
What would be my first course of action here?
Would it be a bad PCV Valve that needs to be replaced?
Or, is this more of a leak?
If so, I have checked ALL the hoses.
The strange thing is that this rev up issue did not happen until after I replaced the battery.

The PCV Hose I replaced that about 7-yrs ago.
As it was totally shot when we got the blasted car.
(Leave it up to a salesperson to take advantage of someone that has their heart set on getting something.)
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I cleaned the IAC
Both the IAC itself and the holes on the manifold.
For the first 10+ minutes, the idle was down below 1000 rpm and stuttering.
Then it went back to doing the high idle.

If I leave the car running in while in, park or stopped.with my foot on the break. The idle will go back down to normal. So it is not a continuous high idle.

Sitting in the car right now. It is idle at about 1,100 rpm.
If I touch the gas peddle it will bring it up to around 3000 rpm for about 20-30 seconds and then drop back down to 1,100 rpm.

I took the manifold off the other day and put it back on making sure there were no hoses lose.

So with all the above.
Any ideas on what this is?
 

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What codes are present now? If 171/174 are still there, either you have a vacuum leak / PCV issue (98% chance), low fuel pressure (1% chance) or MAF issue (1% chance).

When you had the UIM off did you inspec the PCV hose for cracks? VERY common issue on early Tecs.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yes, the 171/174 are still there.
They are the only codes showing up after doing the reset.

The PCV hose was replaced about 5 or so years ago.
Still in great condition.

This is just so strange that this issue happened after the battery completely died and was changed out and now it is at high-idle.
I just don't get it.
Would could the dead battery have done?
OR, was it just perfect timing this issue happened at the same time?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
UPDATE

Jeff K was partially correct.
It was a massive air leak, but due to all the other issues that were visible, it made it hard to hear or find the leak.
So, I spent $6.00 and got a PCV valve, and installed it. (That cleared the HIGH Idle issue.)

Once it was installed, I was then able to trace down the air leak.
Coming from the passenger side, against the firewall is an S-shaped hose.
It was split right down the middle.
I removed it, and since I am unsure what this hose name is, and I did not have any hose to replace it with.
I simply coupled it together with a small piece of fuel line and black electrical tape.
Works great, but does need to be replaced eventually.
I drove the car down the road and it runs like a dream.

Here are some images of the hose and the little green elbow it connects to.
If someone can shine some light on what it is, and the name of the hose. that would be great.
Thanks.
Wayne
 

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Wayne, don't have the part# for that hose, but it's an evap hose that connects the metal evap pipe to the green plastic evap test port. The metal pipe runs along the back of the engine and connects with a 2-3" vertical hose to a vacuum port under the tb. I've had several split on my gen3 tecs and replaced them with scrap hose found in my stash in the cellar. If the fit isn't perfect/snug, you can use small hose clamps/cable ties.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thank, Sheila.
I use to have some extra hose but used it all up.
All I have now is a fuel hose.
I might pick up a length of hose, to cut and use for it.
I have to get a water hose for the car as well to replace, so minus well get them both at the same time and knock out two birds with one stone.

Have a good evening.
Wayne
 
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