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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok so I'm having some problems,

First, I have a 2001 Ford Taurus DOHC

Second, About a week ago I started my car up to go to work and when I did I got a loud metal on metal grinding sound, got it located to A/C turned it on and started driving and it got quieter. Well I stopped driving it as my main car but had to drive it to work everyday. Well bout 4 days ago I stopped using the A/c kept it off all the time and it stoppped making any noise. Well yesterday I was driving and my belt snapped on the outside and frayed but didn't completly fly off. Took it home and changed belt, and noticed the outside part with the 3 studs with rubber when the car was started would randomly turn and not even a full turn more like it was rattling and being moved. Also the pulley is not seized as it spins. Well yesterday I was driving and my belt snapped twice in 4 hours.

So my question is from this does it sound like I need to just replace my a/c clutch assembly? Or the whole compressor?

Also I was reading and saw that some people bought smaller belts to bypass a/c, though on the diagrams they didn't look like my model, Is their anyway to bypass it on a DOHC?

Thanks for any help and yes I have searched and read and saw the posts on dropping the subframe to get to the clutch without removing the compressor which is what I want to do so I don't have to discharge and recharge the system and a few other posts.

My belt digagram if anyone can help me bypass the a/c pulley.
 

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You can buy a dummy pully to replace the ac compressor/clutch but you have to take out the compressor so not really worth it. I just replaced the compressor and clutch on my 2000 DOHC, it's doable if you know what you're doing. Suction and accumulator as well. I did it without dropping my subframe following the factory procedure, not too bad really. Also check your lower radiator hose/pipe that goes under the compressor, if it's rusted real bad get a 1.5"x22" flex hose to replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Is it possible to replace it without removing the compressor? Thats why I was looking at droping the sub frame like some other posts said but their compressor is also on lower side so wasn't sure if it would work...

My main goal is to replace the clutch, I just don't want to remove the compressor so I don't have to discharge and recharge the system. Is it possible to remove the bolts and move it around to work on it while it's still attached? Like basically remove the mount bolts and turn it up to the hood so I would be looking at the bolt and not the side of the pulley? I have no problem removing the radiator as draining and filling it isn't a big deal to me as the a/c system is if it means I can move the compressor to take clutch off.
 

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Well, I thought it through for a few weeks before I tackled it and it was easier for me to put a new compressor in and recharge it, but I also have a vacuum pump and a guage set to recharge the ac. Others claim dropping the subframe is easier but I didn't feel like working on the problem under the car like that. The compressor if it is attached to the manifold won't turn up like you suggest, dropping the subframe you have to pull it through the sidewall some to get at it, I imagine. I'm also on the tall side so I prefer to work on things standing up if possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Do you have the factory procedure on taking it out? Or did you go and buy Haynes or Chilton manual? I'm just trying to find best course of action, because I was going to just let shop do it but they said it would be $500+ for the whole thing with labor and ac recharge. Also how did you discharge the system? I have no problem discharging and recharging really its just from what I hear from other posts its hard to do.
 

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2001 DOHC is significantly different than the 2000 counterpart. So the factory procedure for a 2000 won't work for a 2001.

I don't think you can drop the subframe to get access on a 2001, but I am not sure as I have a 2000.
 

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The Haynes manual procedure for replacing the A/C compressor is quite vague and seriously lacking in photographs. I'd recommend the factory service manual, if you want to go in from the top.

That's a good deal you're getting from the shop if that quote of yours includes the accumulator and orfice tube that you're supposed to replace along with the compressor. I had mine done a few weeks ago for $700, and that's on a relatively-roomy Vulcan. The dealer quoted a number closer to 900. Make sure your guys warrant their work, though, if you don't want to end up with substandard parts. 1 year or 12,000 miles is the standard compressor warranty where I live.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
So can I drop the sub-frame or not? I was just about to try to. I would need to drop it about 7 inches probably.

$500 is just for compressor replacement and a/c recharge. He quoted $351 for labor if I wanted to bring in my own compressor cause he wasn't sure how much a compressor would cost but he quoted over $200 and I can get a new one for $179.99 with 1 year warranty/Lifetime limited warranty, and the shop was going to warrant their work for 1 year. All I was really trying to do was get pulley/clutch replaced but he said either way labor would be the same so figured might as well replace the compressor if I let him work on it.

So anyone with knowledge of the 2001 Duratec DOHC, can you drop the sub-frame or is factory procedure the only real way to do it?

Been searching the forums and noticed this thread. Someone says drop the sub-frame to get to it. Also I'm a noob when it comes to Taurus's, Where is the dogbone mount on the duratec?
 

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:angry: The A/C clutch failure saga has the Stealerships rubbing their hands with glee! They will soak you for the clutch parts and labor which cost more than an entire Motorcraft compressor with new clutch. They are thieving rogues! They won't go the best route because they make less profit! They go by a book which has no friendliness to the customer! A 2001 can be done (search) w/o removing the compressor if you are a Houdini with mirror and angled circlip pliers! Instead you get a new clutch on your old compressor for about $1000!!:angry:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I've done the search the problem is the wrench and small mirror I don't have. Now I could try and do it but at the same time for the trouble I would have doing it without moving anything I would rather drop subframe, IF it's possible then thats the route I want to take. Really any route that doesn't take the compressor off is fine with me so I don't have to discharge and recharge
 

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bmxmike was you able to drop the sub frame successfully? I have same issue, bad clutch, broke the belt and I am replacing whole compressor. Compressor under $150 refurbished and the clutch would have cost me $100...
 
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