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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2001 3.0 V6 Taurus. Problem is when I first start the car up in the morning, or anytime the engine has completely cooled down, and I shift into gear whether it be drive or reverse it surges without touching the accelerator pedal. Once the engine warms up the surge disappears. It also has a rough idle while stopped in drive. Other than that the car performs flawlessly on the highway at highway speed. Acceleration is not affected. I was thinking maybe a Differential Pressure Feedback EGR, or and EGR valve or IAC Valve. Any possible solutions?
 

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Any check engine lights on?
 

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i had the same problem my egr valve was bad if you can take it off and have it checked at your local auto parts store and also put a new gasket on it
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I replaced the Differential Pressure feedback Sensor, the one right next to the EGR Valve and that seems to have taken away the rough idle when its hot and in drive. Currently letting the car cool down so I can see if the surge is still there.
 

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Sounds like a sticking (dirty) iac and/or vacuum leak(s). Next time the idle surges, tap the iac with the handle end of a screwdriver and see if it normalizes. If so, might remove it and try cleaning it up with throttle body or brake cleaner spray before purchasing a new one. If rough idle returns, i would start searching for vacuum leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
It does not surge when idling, only after I put it into gear, it will be like that for a few minutes until the engine warms up. And the rough idle is back after I put the DPFE sensor in. Not as bad, but here and there I will notice it. So maybe it was a part of the problem but not the whole thing. So maybe an EGR valve? I am leaning away from it being an IAC, I looked up some symptoms and really only one of them matches. I have the EGR valve for it, just debating putting it in
 

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You can test the egr valve by removing its vacuum line at idle and replacing it with a piece of scrap sampling hose. Suck on sampling hose opening valve and egr flow to the manifold. Engine should stumble or stall verifying valve is operating properly. Remember, there should be no egr flow at idle or wot (wide open throttle). Why did you change out the dpfe sensor? Were you getting a po401 code? A faulty one should not affect idle or cause the surge youre describing.
 

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I would put the IAC valve on.....its easy not a lot of money and it will do strange things with the idle if its not working right. Ford did have a lot of issues with these on the taurus and other vehicles
 

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I am going through the same (idle miss when put into reverse or drive...fine otherwise) problem with my mother's car (2003 Taurus LX with Vulcan).

I installed new plugs (old ones had a huge gap), installed a new crank sensor (old one was nasty looking), installed new EGR, spray cleaned the MAF (with electrical spray) and cleaned the IAC valve.

Car still acts up. Smooth as silk in park. Can rev up and no misses. I just ordered a new TPS, DPFE and EGR vac solenoid (old one was dangling).

Any thoughts?
 

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Okay so I was reading this forum and the issue of a Ford Taurus v6 01 has bad/ rough idle accompanied with lunges forward when in gear foot on brake pedal stopped but it's in drive like at a traffic light and will surge at the initial take off. Its 1 if 2 things could be both, but 1 thing it's not is your EGR valve. When the EGR you know it because it's part of the emissions....this all depends if your living in California like I do. CA has strict smog requirements and require all vehicles to have smog regulations the EGR is one of the requirements and if stops doing its job the car wont stay running after you start it and sends a fault code to the ECU. <-- your cars electronic brain ECU. Electronic Computerized Unit
 

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My 2001 Sable VIN U has the same shift surge problem. I searched through all the old threads and find no solution to the problem. It must be one of the design flaws that Ford wants to sweep under the rug, or else there would be a TSB on this.

On what may be a related note, my car sucks at decelleration. When I'm on the freeway and take my foot off the gas, the car still feeds the engine an air/fuel mixture instead of decellerating via engine braking, as other cars do. I check this by putting my car in neutral when decellerating. Instead of engine speed going down, it'll go up toward 1700 rpm, then slowly come down. This problem disappears during the first drive after disconnecting the battery.
 
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