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Hello, All.

I have tried for over an hour to get the lower bushing out, and it will not budge.
I watched the following video and got a loaner bushing kit exactly as what he is using.
In this video, you can hear his pop, and when he removes the smaller cap, the bushing is 1/2 the way out.
Not in my case. I cannot get it to move any.

Any advice on getting it to come out?
Also, does the socket have to go all the way up to the beginning of the bushing?
I think mine is only covering the bolt itself and not getting up as far as he is.
I will have to check that tomorrow. I got everything covered up at the moment.

Thanks for any advice.
Wayne
 

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There is a adapter kit to remove the lower ball joint. I think Autozone rents them out. Make sure you have removed the C-clip on the ball joint and the cup you are pushing into is not catching the ball joint base preventing it from moving. I have seen a few people set the thing up so they are just pressing both sides of the joint which is impossible to press out. Post a pick of your setup. Also if you put a lot of tension on the clamp by screwing it tight you can then rap the sides of the knuckle with two hammers. It slightly ovals the fit and the ball joint will start to move out.

IMG_9404.JPG
 

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Also, does the socket have to go all the way up to the beginning of the bushing?
I think mine is only covering the bolt itself and not getting up as far as he is.
Yes, the socket should rest on the rim of the ball-joint. The rim from which you earlier removed the circlip (hopefully). Also make sure the receiver cup at the other side really fits OVER the ball-joint and does not rest on it (but Automender already said that).

He says "actually went easier then I thought it would". It sure does. Worst case you DO need a workshop press. This IS possible, but requires some ingenuity, like this:

Ball-Joint-Press-2.jpg

Actually this is pushing the new ball-joint in. This is an early picture. Later, trying to push out a particularly recalcitrant ball-joint with 8 tons, the pipe wrench folded like a marshmellow and I had to come up with other pieces of steel to create the right distance, but the idea is the same: you solve the "angle problem" that the video talks about with that thick steel plate, the same one that is all the way at the bottom (that is used the way it was meant to be used).
 

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Note in the pic. Speed sensor left in the knuckle. Not to make it hard and risk damage to the sensor.
-chart-
But you want to know the awful truth: I DID try to take it out, put on lots of penetrating oil, tried to rotate it and then heard the plastic crack. Then changed my mind and did what you recommended and hoped to be saved by the bell. Until over a year later the ABS light went on. Of course I instantly knew what it was and which wheel. Tried to get it out again, ended up with a mile of copper wire in my hands as sheila said and finally realized what I should have done.
 

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Oops, some confusion on my side. In the video the ball-joint is pushed out with a long socket that rests on the rim of the ball-joint. But the tool that Automender showed, pushes the ball-joint out by pushing on the ball-joint stud (as shown in his picture). This is no problem because it will be discarded anyway. I was confused because I use the Lisle 45450 adapters that also push the ball-joint out by pushing on the rim and incorrectly assumed all adapters work the same way.

In fact, pushing on the stud might be better. In theory it might be that pushing on the rim deforms the ball-joint causing it to get stuck even more then it already is. That would be an explanation why I once needed 8 tons, which I still think is totally ridiculous (and would definitely break a C-clamp).
 

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I would not recommend using a hammer hit the outer tie rod while it is attached to the hub assembly. Use a tie rod removal tool. Wear eye protection and gloves. I put a light coating on the studs before installing the tie rod ends and ball joints. Makes it easier the next time.
217968


Same for the ball joint, the pickle fork and hammer makes no sense when the tool for the job can be loaned at the parts stores or just buy it and have it in the tool chest.

217969
 
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