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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a 2001 Ford Taurus. I've read some other posts on here and led me to try some things. I've flushed the heater core a few times, both with water and air. Both inlet & outlet hoses get hot, but still no heat. I jus checked the blend door and I can see it moving when I change the dial from hot to cold. I'm completely lost at this point. I was told by Ford that if both hoses get hot, then the heater core does work. So what else can it be? It's getting cold here in Denver and it's the wife's car :eek:

Edit: Also, I used to use the A/C just fine during the summer. Since I flushed it the first time with air hose, no air comes thru the vents anymore, only the defroster vents by the windsheild.. Kind of odd?

Appreciate the help! Mechanic shops want $97+ just to diagnose the heater problem.
 

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Did you change your thermostat?

If no air comes thru the vents, maybe you knocked one of the vacuum hoses off. Is there a clicking sound when you run the heater? If there is, gears on your blender door might be stripped.
 

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Mode (vent) selection is controlled by vacuum. System defaults to defrost with a vac. leak. Temp. is controlled electrically with the blend door actuator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Did you change your thermostat?

If no air comes thru the vents, maybe you knocked one of the vacuum hoses off. Is there a clicking sound when you run the heater? If there is, gears on your blender door might be stripped.
No air goes thru the vents anymore, either way air is still cold from defroster. so 2 problems yes, but the heat is what i'm more concerned with right now. i took the cover off the blend door and it's hooked on just fine and moves it when i switch from cold to hot.
 

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I'm having a very similar problem, replaced the heater core, replaced all the hoses in the engine (heater hoses, radiator hoses, ect.) and also replaced the radiator and thermostat. Air blows through the vents, and I can see the blend door actuator moving, but still no heat.
(sorry to hijack this thread, I was going to make one of my own, but this seemed very similar to mine) I have a 2002 Ford Taurus, also just replaced the engine, so it has a brand new water pump, and all new seals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm having a very similar problem, replaced the heater core, replaced all the hoses in the engine (heater hoses, radiator hoses, ect.) and also replaced the radiator and thermostat. Air blows through the vents, and I can see the blend door actuator moving, but still no heat.
(sorry to hijack this thread, I was going to make one of my own, but this seemed very similar to mine) I have a 2002 Ford Taurus, also just replaced the engine, so it has a brand new water pump, and all new seals.
wow. looks like you've done everything i could possible wind up doing. my mechanic came by and says it might be a short/cross with the air hoses somewhere. we're going to disassemble the whole dash soon because he's clueless just like me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Replaced the 'stat yet?
not yet. mainly because i talked to a mechanic at the ford dealership and all he said "if the hoses are hot then the heater core is working" and only recommended checking the blend door actuator. no mention of a thermostat. how do you tell if it's bad?
 

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not yet. mainly because i talked to a mechanic at the ford dealership and all he said "if the hoses are hot then the heater core is working" and only recommended checking the blend door actuator. no mention of a thermostat. how do you tell if it's bad?
You have to take it out and test it in a pot of boiling water. If you're gonna take it out, might as well replace it. Easy DIY...
 

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You don't even have to drain all of your coolant. Just park your car on the incline or on the ramps with nose up. You might loose up to 1 liter of coolant max. So, don't forget to top it up, when you're done with the thermostat. Also, don't forget to purchase a gasket before replacing thermostat. OEM Motorcraft is rated 197F. I think it's under a tenner from Rockauto. I've installed aftermarket thermostat, rated at 192F. But it's a failsafe thermostat. I still got no heat, even with brand new heater core, but while replacing it, I've broken two plastic pivots that control blender doors. So, as soon as I get a chance, I'll go to a junk yard to get parts.
 

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I agree your thermostat is stuck open or partial open.
Coolant always going to the radiator and getting cooled.

Just changed both heat cores in my '99 sable and wagon,
wife can roast marshmallows in her car, I can't.

Changing the thermostat tomorrow. (only three years old).
 

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I had the same issue with my car, turned out there was a heater core bypass hose I had to clamp shut when I flush it.

I do it once a year with a garden hose and its uncomfortably hot in the winter :)
Better than no heat :)

I had a shop flush it and it didn't help because they don't clamp the bypass
 

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I had a similar problem.. i ran the blend door Diagnois check on it which is on the wiki somewhere on here... Its easy to do. I had no heat like you in the winter and no air in the summer. My mechanic had did all the things you did new rebuilt enginge etc... including replacing the blend door.

I ran the check code or viola Full blast AC! I also now that if I push the full front defrost button damn thing sticks again and no AC so I just avoid that button. If I find the link I'll post it for you.
 

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I had the same issue with my car, turned out there was a heater core bypass hose I had to clamp shut when I flush it.

I do it once a year with a garden hose and its uncomfortably hot in the winter :)
Better than no heat :)

I had a shop flush it and it didn't help because they don't clamp the bypass
Sounds like you need to follow the clinton flush method -- it does more than a simple flush does.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I had the same issue with my car, turned out there was a heater core bypass hose I had to clamp shut when I flush it.

I do it once a year with a garden hose and its uncomfortably hot in the winter :)
Better than no heat :)

I had a shop flush it and it didn't help because they don't clamp the bypass
I'm going to try this ASAP. What is the best way to clamp it shut?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Also, does anyone have a downloadable PDF of a 2001 Ford Taurus Service Manual? I can usually find them for other cars but no luck with this one.
 

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I just disconnect ea. htr. hose at the first junction available behind the fragile little rubber core hose elbows and flush both ways until clear. Dont disconnect the core elbows or you run the risk of breaking a solder joint on the core itself. If you need to replace the core elbow hoses, its best to slice with a utility knife and peel the hoses from the core nipples unless youre replacing the core.
 
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